Re-blueing a Pistol- A Picture presentation
- Thread starter kiki231
- Start date
Actually, the smoother finish didnt seem to hinder the process at all. In fact it seems as though the finish is deeper into the metal.
The "carding" is a simple buff with "0000" steel-wool. Its literally 2 or 3 quick wipes. -- the idea is to polish off the cloudy material to see the surface beneath.
As far as thinning on the edges-- no. The finish is not a "coat" that thins, but rather a "re-coloring" of the surface itself. So it looks as black on the sharp edges as it does on the flat areas. In fact, since i have a shiny finish, the black really makes the sharp edges pop visually.
Now, like factory blueing, over the next several years, as the gun gets surface wear , it may need to be done again (every gun is like this). Thats not the blue wearing off, but rather the actual metal surface wearing down and taking the color with it.
I have taken the gun to the range and have had countless people comment on the "New" tokarev.
It looks great, but is this really rust bluing? or is it more of a stain on the metal? in rust bluing you must obtain the red rust before boiling, this looks more like cold bluing with the addition of hot water.
I must investigate this further....very intriguing!
I must investigate this further....very intriguing!
- Location
- Richmond, BC
Wow, that’s a great job. I tried my hand at bluing as well, but didn’t put in nearly the same effort and hard work you did. For me, all I did was sand down the slide, grab $5 cold blueing kit from Canadian tire, and brushed it on. It looks okay, but not nearly as good as yours.
I wanted to try my hand at Parkerizing, but that looks like even more work, and the wife would have my balls if I tried to do that on the stove. Have to wait till it gets warmer, try it on the BBQ stove outside.
I wanted to try my hand at Parkerizing, but that looks like even more work, and the wife would have my balls if I tried to do that on the stove. Have to wait till it gets warmer, try it on the BBQ stove outside.
Good question-- yes , this is a form of rust bluing. Over at MidwayUSA, they have videos by the owner, Larry Potterfield. These are some of the best videos on YouTube for gun-smithing. Well produced and good info. There are a few bluing videos there-- slow rust blue, niter salts bluing, flame bluing, color case hardening,
http://www.midwayusa.com/general.mvc/index/videolibrary
The system i used is similar to the Arts Belgian blue (which was formerly known as Herters Belgian Blue , I am told) . This is a hot blue process, creating a blue oxide. The difference between this and the red process , i am told, is that the chemical process is catalyzed quicker to black oxide on application because of the heat. Speaking to the gunsmith representative at Midway earlier this year, he said that the finish is just as durable, but it requires more intense work over a much shorter time-frame. The result on the Express Blue process (like i used) vs the slow process is more on what you prefer as a finish-- if you like the older style blued barrels from the early 1900's ( a satin finish), then the slow rust process would be better. If you like a glossier finish - black-charcoal color, then express might be a better choice.
I could not find a local gunsmith to do anything other than a Birchwood coating, so i tackled this myself. I plan on trying a slow process product, and will definitely try the PJ's parkerizing. Both results i will post here.
Since doing this pistol, i wanted to experiment with the process a bit -- sort of learn its limits. Using an old slide, i re blued it. What i can add to anyone as tips would be the following;
1) 400 grit paper with a final buff of "0000" steel wool makes a perfect finish for bluing prep -- the metal ends up like a classic 1911 finish - black and shiny.
2) 8 coats seems to be the magic number
3) the first 3 coats are fairly forgiving -- you can be a little liberal -- runs etc. -- that being said, the very first coat has the most dramatic effect on the metal -- so try to not let the piece lay on a surface during the solution application -- when you do that, it can slow/accelerate the bluing where it contacts the surface -- for example, i tried , during the application of the second coat of solution , laying the piece on a clean towel-- the weave of the towel showed in a "ghost" image on the metal-- this cleared up with an aggressive carding between coats. So i recommend holding the part so that it balances on a corner or edge while you apply the blue solution-- in both the early coats, and in the later coats.
4) keep the water boiling the whole time and work quick--- wipe on that solution, and pop it into the water, no need for the solution to dry-- in fact, during the final coat, work very quick to avoid any of the solution drying and leaving a funny blotch -- if that happens, you will need another coat
5) although don't let the solution dry, always dry the piece when it comes out of the water BEFORE applying solution.
hope that spurs some of you to give this a try. I have been shooting the heck out of this little tokarev, and it really catches the eye at the range.
- Location
- West Quebec
Excellent thread thank you..
keep_clear
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Ontario
awesome job, awesome thread!
thanks for the effort!
thanks for the effort!
