Re-blueing a shotgun
- Thread starter rdl212
- Start date
I tried it on a Mossberg shotgun using an Outers bluing kit. I found out that I should probably not do it again and just pay someone who knows what their doing, haha. I managed to get rid of the original blue and the rust, but when it came to putting on the new blue it didn't look so good.
The process I used is as follows:
Removed barrel and action from the stock.
Poured some CLR into a Ziplock container.
Wear rubber gloves.Using 000 or 0000 steel wool, dip the steel wool into the CLR and start scrubbing the metal to remove the old blueing. The old finish will come off really quickly and the steel wool and CLR will heat up.
Once all the old finish is removed, rinse the barrel/receiver with hot water. I used water heated in the kettle.
Using a degreaser, the Outers kit comes with a bottle and sponge applicator, scrub down the entire barrel/receiver.
Rinse with hot water and dry with a clean rag or papertowel. An air compressor can also be used to blow out areas that you can't get into.
The metal will begin to retain quite a bit of heat from the hot water.
Following the directions on the kit, begin applying the blueing chemical.
Once there is an even coat on all the surface, allow to sit for about 5 minutes.
Rinse with hot water. Dry with clean rag or papertowel.
Repeat process starting with degreaser.
I repeated the whole process 3 or 4 times. It is not difficult to do, just time consuming. It took me about 4 hours from disassembly to reassembly. Rubber gloves is a must as you don't want to touch the metal with bare hands to avoid transfer of oils from your skin to the gun. I used medical grade nitrile gloves for the cleaning and application steps and Hero brand cleaning gloves when using the hot water to prevent burns.
Removed barrel and action from the stock.
Poured some CLR into a Ziplock container.
Wear rubber gloves.Using 000 or 0000 steel wool, dip the steel wool into the CLR and start scrubbing the metal to remove the old blueing. The old finish will come off really quickly and the steel wool and CLR will heat up.
Once all the old finish is removed, rinse the barrel/receiver with hot water. I used water heated in the kettle.
Using a degreaser, the Outers kit comes with a bottle and sponge applicator, scrub down the entire barrel/receiver.
Rinse with hot water and dry with a clean rag or papertowel. An air compressor can also be used to blow out areas that you can't get into.
The metal will begin to retain quite a bit of heat from the hot water.
Following the directions on the kit, begin applying the blueing chemical.
Once there is an even coat on all the surface, allow to sit for about 5 minutes.
Rinse with hot water. Dry with clean rag or papertowel.
Repeat process starting with degreaser.
I repeated the whole process 3 or 4 times. It is not difficult to do, just time consuming. It took me about 4 hours from disassembly to reassembly. Rubber gloves is a must as you don't want to touch the metal with bare hands to avoid transfer of oils from your skin to the gun. I used medical grade nitrile gloves for the cleaning and application steps and Hero brand cleaning gloves when using the hot water to prevent burns.
This is the stuff the boys are now recommending. I have my first kit on the way to try. I have never seen a home applied finish this close to original on such a rusted gun. Thanks again 870supermag for sharing
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=570935
http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunBlue.html
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=570935
http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunBlue.html
Last edited:
gunsaholic
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg, Manitoba
I just did an old Mossberg .22. Now there is a discussion on another forun right now about cold bluing. The gun smiths on this particular forum say cold bluing is a waste of time and will not last but they do say you can get good looking results. The Mossberg I did actually turned out quite nice. The biggest step is the prep work;if that is not done properly it will not turn out. In my case, I removed the bluing by sanding the barrel with emery cloth, then 600 grit wet/dry paper to remove any scratches, then 0000 steel wool. I then degreased a couple of times with denatured alcohol. I used Birchwood Casey's Super Blue and applied it, then washed with cold water, then steel wooled it with 0000 again, then applied more coats until I got the depth I wanted. Now in response to the remarks about it won't last I said I didn't really care because if it wears some then it will look like a 70 year old .22 should. It will still be better than rust and most people aren't going to spend the money to get a $150.00 gun reblued professionally. Oh, I tried Blue Wonder a couple of times and to me it is crap. Just my opinion.
In order to remove as much old bluing and rust as possible, clean the gun first with a product called Naval Jelly. Cleans the gun to bare metal really quick and easy. Get the surface as polished and clean as possible for a good blue job. The prep work makes all the difference.
Muriatic acid. Cleans everything off.
You can get this at home depot etc. Might have to ask for it. Be very careful with it and use it in a well ventilated area.
Also use a gas mask if you have one!
Once it's clean, use some light steel wool on it, then use some good bluing to complete it.
Or, you can parkerize it..
You can get this at home depot etc. Might have to ask for it. Be very careful with it and use it in a well ventilated area.
Also use a gas mask if you have one!
Once it's clean, use some light steel wool on it, then use some good bluing to complete it.
Or, you can parkerize it..
