Re-centring cross-hairs after disaster?

boomer49

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Hi guys,

Here's an embarrassing (for me) story that'll make you smile and shake your head.

A few days ago I mounted my Mueller APV 4.5-14 x 40 on my new .223 SPS Varmint. First centrefire rifle ... very excited to get going.

I used the basic Leupold two-piece mount, and absolutely could not get shots onto the target ... shooting several inches low when I was bore-sighting at just 20 yards ... even with it maxed-out at highest possibe scope vertical adjustment! I didn't touch the scope's horizontal adjustment and just adjusted the initial "windage" with Leupold's screw-adjustable rear mount.

And then I noticed that the "Mueller" logo on the scope was facing the barrel! I'd mounted the scope 90 degrees off-centre!! Round of applause please!! My vertical adjustments were actually moving the crosshairs left and right.

So ... back to square one. The scope is now in the proper attitude but God knows where my adjustments are with all that buggering-around. I'm thinking that I should try to get the adjustments back to their "out of the box" original settings and then just start fresh again ... first the crude windage adjustment with the rear mount and then the normal routine with the scope adjustments.

My question? (This "sharing" wasn't entirely for your amusement.) To get back to original spec on the scope, should I just count the number of "clicks" available on the vertical and horizontal turrets (about 100, I believe) and then just re-set to the mid-point?

Any other hints/advice would also be welcome.

Boomer
 
Go to one end of the 'maxed out' scale, then count as you go back to the other end, and divide by two. Be carefuly not to go too far past the 'max'. I don't think the APV has a hard stop at the end of the range. I have two of them, but haven't maxed out the turrets, so i'm not sure. Just go to the point where you feel resistance.

Don't get too hung up on 'mechanical centre'. Just mount it and shoot it! :)
 
Boomer: Take the scope off and hold the objective lens square on a large mirror like the one in most bathrooms. You will see 2 sets of crosshairs---just adjust until they are very close together. Should be done.....and easy...wTc
 
BTT ... more info/input please ...

Hi guys,

Anybody else have any words of wisdom? Or maybe just some hand-holding? I do appreciate the info from the members above, but it would be good to get more "takes" (there were just two ... one I knew about ... the other sounded avante-garde) on my stupid mistake before I try to fix it.

Merci!

Boomer
 
boomer49

I think all the options are covered for you. The mirror trick is neat, I've only learned of it in the last few weeks. I don't think it matters where the mechanical center of the scope is though, it will have to be dialed in for your specific ammo.:).
 
Who cares about where the elevation center is?

But it is nice to set the wind to mid range. Counting and dividing by two would work.

Is it on a bolt action rifle? if so, take it into the back yard, rest the rifle on a table or something, and bore sight the rifle on the neighbour's house, then adjust the elevation to what you see through the barrel. Use the left right base ring screws to zero the wind, so you don't use up any internal adjustment.

Now when you go to the range your first shot will be on the paper and the wind zero can be done with the wind knob.
 
Who cares about where the elevation center is?

But it is nice to set the wind to mid range. Counting and dividing by two would work.

Is it on a bolt action rifle? if so, take it into the back yard, rest the rifle on a table or something, and bore sight the rifle on the neighbour's house, then adjust the elevation to what you see through the barrel. Use the left right base ring screws to zero the wind, so you don't use up any internal adjustment.

Now when you go to the range your first shot will be on the paper and the wind zero can be done with the wind knob.

:rolleyes:

Then lay down on your face, put your hands behind your back, and wait for the cops to show up in full EMT gear because your neighbor saw you pointing a gun at him.

Maybe try a tree instead... :p

The other way to centre cross-hairs back to factory, is to take a cardboard box (that is less than the total length of your scope), cut two "v's" out on either end, set the scope in the v's and while looking through the scope, spin it. You will see the centre of the cross-hair move in a circle. Adjust the turrets until it remains stationary as you spin the scope.

Matthew
 
I don't know for sure. I just remembered that video, when the OP wanted a way to recenter his scope. I would guess it's to get it back to factory spec so when he installs the scope (and adds shims?) he doesn't reduce the angle too much.
 
mmatt said:
The other way to centre cross-hairs back to factory, is to take a cardboard box (that is less than the total length of your scope), cut two "v's" out on either end, set the scope in the v's and while looking through the scope, spin it. You will see the centre of the cross-hair move in a circle. Adjust the turrets until it remains stationary as you spin the scope.

Matthew

After his scope is centered, what is the gain? The mounts in the video don't appear to be adjustable in any way.

I've done the cardboard box trick (used some tape in the notches to avoid scratching the matte finish) in my basement, and it seemed to work ok. The reason I did it was I have burris signature rings so I can use inserts to get the bullet impact pretty close to where the scope erector is centered.
 
Ergo ...

And that's why I started this post. I'm thinking that I should count-off all the possible range on both my "up" and "down" scope adjustments ... never stressing the mushy end-points... and then divide by two or multilpy by .5 ... and go there to start fresh with crude windage adjustments with the rear Leupold base ... and ... start fresh!!

I like the idea of starting fresh.

Geez ... I shoulda just asked an expert and paid $20. Two of my friends (3rd generation ranchers) have bore-sighters, but I just wanted to do it by myself.

Moral to the story? Freinds are there for a reason. Just ask.

Boomer
 
Quote: "Any lens delivers better optical quality when you look through the centre rather than through some point near the outside edge."

Yes, I agree, but in my applications the scope travels through a lot of travel - from 300 to 1000 yards, so I shim them so the 100 zero is neare the bottom of travel.

The reason I said "Who cares?" is that the elevation will be set on the zero range. I want to go to the zero range with the wind near zero, for exactly the reason you give - near the optical centre.
 
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