read noslers reloading book……… i have more questions

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read noslers reloading book……… i have more questions

ok i bought the reloading book and thought i was set this is not the case. i was reading recipes for 30-06 and the only projectiles that were listed were nosler products. so what my question is can i use their recipes with differant brand projectiles as long its the same grain projectile.

thanks in advance
 
Sometimes the bullet makers give you some recipes. But in the end you can certainly use the recipes that mention the same weight and style of bullet. For example if you're using a boat tail jacketed spitzer bullet you can apply the information for pretty well any other brand same weight spitzer boat tailed bullet.

Within that recipe you'll want to play with the load to find the charge weight that gives you the smallest shot grouping. But that's as much or more due to your rifle barrel as the bullet.
 
The bullet manufacturers (Nosler, Hornady, Sierra, etc...) that publish reloading data have a vested interest in promoting their own product. I would suspect they also don't want to go out and buy significant quantities of their competition's product to develop load data for them.

The powder manufacturers will similarly publish data for their own product. To get a less product promotion oriented viewpoint, have a look at the Lyman reloading manual, or the Lee.

I've also heard good things about the ABCs of Reloading, but I haven't got one yet.

You can't have too many reloading manuals.... ;-})>
 
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ammoguide.com is a good spot but there is a small registration fee
 
I agree with OldDude. Get a generic manual. I use Richard Lee's Modern Reloading . Locate the calibre and bullet weight you intend to shoot. For example 6.5 Creedmoor 140 gr jacketed bullet. This manual lists a number of powders from different manufacturers. Start at the minimum charge and work up. For specific bullets, should you want to go that way, you should consult that manufacturers manual. The websites mentioned above are OK, but when I get any load data from a site like that I compare it to published data in order to determine if it safe.
 
Between the Lee's Modern Reloading, and Lyman, plus a couple others I usually have quite a few possible choices,. I also go online to the powder manufacturers sight, and take a look at their offering as well.
 
I have often found that the data from another manufacturer, often matches the results in my firearms better than the manufacturer's data whose bullet I am using.
 
Regardless which book, bullet, powder, primer or case you start with . . . everything should be regarded as a starting point.
Minor changes are okay but changing any of the above is like starting over.
That being said it would be impossible to count the number of times I have seen a hand loader's assortment of missed brass in the same box.
I should have taken a picture of the assortment given to me to sight in a rifle . . . there were military, match, round nose and spritzer in one box.
 
Yes basic information from anyone's manual can be used for another makers bullets. But that means info for a jacketed bullet for a jacketed bullet of the same number of grains and NOT a jacketed bullet for a solid copper bullet of the same number of grains. Solid copper bullets should be loaded to the Manufactures data for the most part as they all have different qualities such as hardness and how much surface bearing they impart on the barrel.

Jim
 
ABC's is a good book, but it is more of an overall guide and does not contain load data.
It does have a detailed section covering the attributes of many of the common powders, including which powders work best with each cartridge.
I think many reloaders will get something out of it, novice or experienced.
I got it from the library. Check it out.
Cory
 
Compare between a number of published sources. Nosler and IMR both have loads listed, compare the 2, many start out with the same starting load but different max loads. You can never trust a max load in any gun, you have to work up a load in a specific gun. If you want to load for 2 guns of the same caliber make sure you are working up the loads and checking for pressure signs in both guns. If you change any component be it the bullet, case or primer then start out with the starting load and work up again for that same powder.

It is not worth losing a body part to take short cuts.
 
When starting out with a new load development, I usually look at 4 or 5 manuals with the given bullet weight. I average the maximum loads
in all of them, then drop down 6%-10% and start from there.

Regards, Dave.
 
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