You can get away with a pretty floppy bench but you will be happier with a sturdy one. I'm not sure there is an upper limit- sturdier is better. All the force is on the down-stroke and having some "feel" provided from a sturdy bench is better.
Realistically how "solid" does your bench need to be?
- Thread starter Nan_wpg
- Start date
I think your first issue will be the top flexing where the press is mounted.
My first bench had similar issues to your bench. It was heavy and I had a length of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 angle iron welded to the edge with holes drilled so I could put 1/4 lag bolts into the wall studs. It was heavy like your bench but it had a metal top with a rolled edge. The sheet metal was 5/32 thickness.
Never had a problem with it lifting on the upstroke. The issue I had was flexing. I ended up taking the press off and putting down a one foot square plate of aluminum from the scrap bin at work. It was one inch (2cm) thick. I bolted it down on the back corners and drilled three holes for my old RCBS Jr. to pass all the way through the table top. When this system was finally bolted down that bench was and still is very solid. I sold the press to Mr Nicholson from Kelowna and replaced it with an RCBS Rockchucker. Stil use the same bench though.
My first bench had similar issues to your bench. It was heavy and I had a length of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 angle iron welded to the edge with holes drilled so I could put 1/4 lag bolts into the wall studs. It was heavy like your bench but it had a metal top with a rolled edge. The sheet metal was 5/32 thickness.
Never had a problem with it lifting on the upstroke. The issue I had was flexing. I ended up taking the press off and putting down a one foot square plate of aluminum from the scrap bin at work. It was one inch (2cm) thick. I bolted it down on the back corners and drilled three holes for my old RCBS Jr. to pass all the way through the table top. When this system was finally bolted down that bench was and still is very solid. I sold the press to Mr Nicholson from Kelowna and replaced it with an RCBS Rockchucker. Stil use the same bench though.
My loading bench isn't mounted to the floor or even the walls for that matter.
It is in an 'L' shape with one 8' section and one 6' section - 8'x8' overall.
Built with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood for the top and 2x4 framing.
The shape of the bench is a pretty big factor in its stability.
It is further weighed down by around 20,000 rounds of ammo on the shelves and doesn't flex at all.
It is in an 'L' shape with one 8' section and one 6' section - 8'x8' overall.
Built with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood for the top and 2x4 framing.
The shape of the bench is a pretty big factor in its stability.
It is further weighed down by around 20,000 rounds of ammo on the shelves and doesn't flex at all.
Personally, I wouldn't be worried about the weight.... Sounds heavy enough.... Add the weight of the press itself as well as anything else you may bolt to the top and it will be even heavier....
I would be more worried about the countertop itself if it is the usual laminated press board type...
I would be more worried about the countertop itself if it is the usual laminated press board type...
As solid as possible. I can stand on mine, jump up and down and it doesn't budge. 2x4s, secured to the wall and the floor and a bit of thought put into it because I wanted something that wouldn't flex or bend due to all the weight stored on it. Several thousand rounds of various calibers, and all my supplies sit on it and there is no fear of it falling, ever. Secure yours to the floor and think about adding bracing if you can. A couple of simple angled braces will go a long way to providing rigidity
I have one of the Canadian Tire workbenches, and one of the first things I did was ditch the particle board bench-top. It got replaced by 2 layers of 1" plywood, glued and screwed together. It also overhangs the bench on one end, giving me more usable workspace, and I used a left-over chunk of 4"x6" pressure treated lumber as a 'leg' to support the overhang. The bench top got covered with a piece of cheap arborite I picked up from a cabinet shop.
Overkill? Yes, but there's absolutely no flex and it works great!!!
Overkill? Yes, but there's absolutely no flex and it works great!!!
BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
This. I use bags of lead shot on the bottom shelf and the top is made of 2" laminated hardwood. It's still not the heaviest thing but it doesn't want to wobble.
use these free plans, build this, very solid, and pride of ownership
http://www.finewoodworking.com/2007/08/17/rock-solid-plywood-bench
http://www.finewoodworking.com/2007/08/17/rock-solid-plywood-bench
I tried without,success to lag the whole bench into the wall. I drilled through the metal frame and only one lag held.
Not sure if I just hit a weak spot in the stud 3 times? Still puzzled.
It's basically just a typical countertop on the metal frame. My press will NOT be mounted directly to it. The plan is to glue together 2 3/4" pices of plywood (12 x 20") and permantly mount the press to it, and when needed, c clamp the press on the corner of the bench. That should give me stability.
My bench is also all purpose so I don't,want a press mounted all the time
Not sure if I just hit a weak spot in the stud 3 times? Still puzzled.
It's basically just a typical countertop on the metal frame. My press will NOT be mounted directly to it. The plan is to glue together 2 3/4" pices of plywood (12 x 20") and permantly mount the press to it, and when needed, c clamp the press on the corner of the bench. That should give me stability.
My bench is also all purpose so I don't,want a press mounted all the time
Either you went full Mondo on the wrench used on the lag screws or you missed the studs.
The other thins is that you don't need the strength of a lag screw. A couple of #8's will do just fine.
If you don't have a stud finder use a magnet to find the drywall screws. Those indicate the stud locations pretty surely.
An option you might consider is to put a strap along the wall ABOVE the bench so it presses down on the rear edge. This gives you a neat way to hold the bench in place while locking it to the wall and at the same time acts as a back stop to avoid small parts slipping down the gap. It can also be used to mount a neat tool rack and shelf along the upper edge of the strap if you use a wide enough one. Something like a 1x6 would work well as the wall strap. And another 1x6 supported by a few small angle brackets as the shelf.
As folks are saying most of the force is needed on the pull/down stroke and the only force on the lift is to extract the cases from the sizing die. None of the other dies or steps produce any significant up travel load. So just some goodies on the bend will load it down well enough to stay in place nicely.
Something you might consider instead of the C clamps is to drill for a pattern of holes in the bench and fit it with top hat nuts from below in 3/8" size. Then drill matching holes in the press mount plate. This lets you bolt the plate to the bench instead of C claps which you WILL snag your leg on and hit your knee cap. It WILL happen and it WILL make you say some nasty words that children should not hear
.
And best of all that same pattern of four holes can be used with a second mounting pad to hold a nice bench vise for jobs that need one. Or any other tool that you wish to be held solidly in position. And when you get a new progressive press at some point you can use the same holes and plate dimensions to bolt that down too. It's just so neatly flexible and adaptable and so much nicer than clamps that keep trying to do bodily harm to you.
The other thins is that you don't need the strength of a lag screw. A couple of #8's will do just fine.
If you don't have a stud finder use a magnet to find the drywall screws. Those indicate the stud locations pretty surely.
An option you might consider is to put a strap along the wall ABOVE the bench so it presses down on the rear edge. This gives you a neat way to hold the bench in place while locking it to the wall and at the same time acts as a back stop to avoid small parts slipping down the gap. It can also be used to mount a neat tool rack and shelf along the upper edge of the strap if you use a wide enough one. Something like a 1x6 would work well as the wall strap. And another 1x6 supported by a few small angle brackets as the shelf.
As folks are saying most of the force is needed on the pull/down stroke and the only force on the lift is to extract the cases from the sizing die. None of the other dies or steps produce any significant up travel load. So just some goodies on the bend will load it down well enough to stay in place nicely.
Something you might consider instead of the C clamps is to drill for a pattern of holes in the bench and fit it with top hat nuts from below in 3/8" size. Then drill matching holes in the press mount plate. This lets you bolt the plate to the bench instead of C claps which you WILL snag your leg on and hit your knee cap. It WILL happen and it WILL make you say some nasty words that children should not hear
.And best of all that same pattern of four holes can be used with a second mounting pad to hold a nice bench vise for jobs that need one. Or any other tool that you wish to be held solidly in position. And when you get a new progressive press at some point you can use the same holes and plate dimensions to bolt that down too. It's just so neatly flexible and adaptable and so much nicer than clamps that keep trying to do bodily harm to you.
Either you went full Mondo on the wrench used on the lag screws or you missed the studs.
The other thins is that you don't need the strength of a lag screw. A couple of #8's will do just fine.
If you don't have a stud finder use a magnet to find the drywall screws. Those indicate the stud locations pretty surely
An option you might consider is to put a strap along the wall ABOVE the bench so it presses down on the rear edge. This gives you a neat way to hold the bench in place while locking it to the wall and at the same time acts as a back stop to avoid small parts slipping down the gap. It can also be used to mount a neat tool rack and shelf along the upper edge of the strap if you use a wide enough one. Something like a 1x6 would work well as the wall strap. And another 1x6 supported by a few small angle brackets as the shelf.
As folks are saying most of the force is needed on the pull/down stroke and the only force on the lift is to extract the cases from the sizing die. None of the other dies or steps produce any significant up travel load. So just some goodies on the bend will load it down well enough to stay in place nicely.
Something you might consider instead of the C clamps is to drill for a pattern of holes in the bench and fit it with top hat nuts from below in 3/8" size. Then drill matching holes in the press mount plate. This lets you bolt the plate to the bench instead of C claps which you WILL snag your leg on and hit your knee cap. It WILL happen and it WILL make you say some nasty words that children should not hear
And best of all that same pattern of four holes can be used with a second mounting pad to hold a nice bench vise for jobs that need one. Or any other tool that you wish to be held solidly in position. And when you get a new progressive press at some point you can use the same holes and plate dimensions to bolt that down too. It's just so neatly flexible and adaptable and so much nicer than clamps that keep trying to do bodily harm to you.
The wall,isn't covered. There's no way I missed the studs. I'll try some screws to cinch her up.
I was gonna also c clamp my vise to the bench, but I like the idea of using top hats instead of clamps. I'm guessing you speak from experience? Lol
I bolted the vice to my bench..... just a quick tip...... get yourself a bit of adhesive back magnet tape (can send you some if you need), and a couple pieces of rubber mat..... cut both the tape and the mat to fit the jaws of your vice.... when you need to grip a gun in the vice, simply install the magnet backed rubber on the faces of the jaws to avoid scratching up your gun.... when you need an extra firm grip, remove the magnets and you are good to go......
With several hundred pounds of bullets, tools, ... no way my bench moves; even when I want it to. 1k 124gr 9mm bullet is ~18lbs. Any self respecting reloader has over 10k supply; Hey look it is rainy, windy outside, the Democrat just got elected.
Alright, the #8 screws went in, no she's solid now, no lateral movement.
I'm also going to put a 2' x 4' pegboard for hammers, screwdrivers, etc. above that I'd like a thin shelf to put my spray cans of,gun cleaner, wd40, loading trays, etc. ideas? I'm thinking a 6' fence board will do, with appropriate brackets.
I'm also going to put a 2' x 4' pegboard for hammers, screwdrivers, etc. above that I'd like a thin shelf to put my spray cans of,gun cleaner, wd40, loading trays, etc. ideas? I'm thinking a 6' fence board will do, with appropriate brackets.
I went with the c-clamp route, and now am going the top hat nuts route! No prizes for guessing why.
Also my 2 cents, you will require a real solid bench if you buy 1F brass, the dreaded Glock bulge is murder on my Hornady LnL AP shell plate. So much so that I bought a Lee single stage press for deprime and bulge busting.
Also my 2 cents, you will require a real solid bench if you buy 1F brass, the dreaded Glock bulge is murder on my Hornady LnL AP shell plate. So much so that I bought a Lee single stage press for deprime and bulge busting.
What you have posted here sounds pretty solid. Mount everything up and give it a whirl, see if and or how it's moving and modify. If you don't want a shelf have you considered an angle brace from the outer edge and wall framing? A minor amount of movement isn't a deal breaker.
- Location
- Central AB
Just wanted to mention, you can get away with a somewhat flimsy bench with most simple presses, although it is irritating. But when talking progressive presses, having a really solid bench takes on new importance, especially for presses such as the Loadmaster which primes on the upstroke.
Everything from case feeders to automated primers work more reliably if level, and stable. And powder measures will be much more reliable and accurate if not being tilted due to a flimsy bench.
Everything from case feeders to automated primers work more reliably if level, and stable. And powder measures will be much more reliable and accurate if not being tilted due to a flimsy bench.
