Really big problem .

ykkid said:
My advice is to buy and read the how-to in two different reloading manuals - Seirra and Hornady come to mind - about the best $150 he will ever spend. Then, pick a nice, old moderate pressure round - his .30'06 is ideal - shoot it in a ridiculously strong action - Rem 700 comes to mind, and learn how to handload. Oh and a volume of the ABC's hould be on every handloader's bench. Ain't much you need to know about making ammo that ain't covered in ABC's.
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Don't be ridiculous. Books are a waste of money. You can learn everything you need to know on Youtube.





;)
 
What are you using for dies? When you buy NEW brass you should full legnth size them with either a full legnth sizing die or a body die if you neck size. If the brass was previously fired in YOUR rifle you can neck size only if you like. If you bought ONCE FIRED brass you need to full legnth size or body size to get them back to SAMMI specs. Only once you have fired the brass in YOUR rifle can you neck size.

What I do is neck size. BUT before I neck size my brass I run each one (empty) through my rifle to see how the bolt closes, then I measure and trim if needed. When ever you buy brass wether it's new or once fired it must be sized back down to SAMMI specs.

Clear as mud?, oh and I reload for .338 Lapua as well.
 
L.E. Wilson Case Gages 50 BMG

ht tp://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25527/catid/3/L_E__Wilson_Case_Gages_50_BMG
 
Interesting reading...........OP for starters all the 50 cal headstamps you cited are military cases. The 50 does take some force to full length resize but not that much. I've sized 150 in a 1/2 hour or less without great adieu, you must use a good lube and a very solidly mounted press. After buying new or used brass ESPECIALLY for 50 cal, you must full length size it before loading, then you must clean it, then you must run every single piece through the rifle before priming and loading. I too shoot an HS50 Steyr and it is a great rifle but there is virtually no camming power, so the case must fit correctly before loading. Loading for a 50 is different than any other caliber, and you got lucky!!! you cannot drop any steps in reloading and you must test every single brass in the rifle before you load it. Once the brass has been fired, in your rifle, and trimmed to length, you can now proceed with normal reloading practices. I even still run all my sized cases through my rifle even though they have been fired it that chamber. I will still sometimes get a hard bolt close and I will size it again. 50s are a whole different cat and this is coming from a guy who has loaded for hundreds of calibers for more than 40 years.
Do you have the right equipment for loading for the 50? You must never assume that a case either new or fired will chamber in your rifle, regardless of what the seller says.

338 Lapua............maybe just garbage brass or a rough chamber......is this rifle new?

'06...........put some powder in that case, it is worse to underload a semi auto.......try 56 gns of IMR 4350 behind a 180 spritzer bullet and then tell me if it doesn't cycle properly.
 
c-fbmi said:
..... so the case must fit correctly before loading. ........you cannot drop any steps in reloading and you must test every single brass in the rifle before you load it. .....You must never assume that a case either new or fired will chamber in your rifle, regardless of what the seller says.
Click to expand...

EXACTLY this!!! Your rifle's chamber is your ultimate gauge. Once you know the dimensions, you're off and running.

Rooster
 
Kazman1960 said:
I am trying to fully resize the 50 casing . It is actually seating further in the breach now but as i mentioned , these 50's take some force and i broke ( split ) the timber the press is bolted down to .
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50 military brass can be hard to size, as stated. Make sure ya lube good. If it is still a fight, have the lock-ring on your die locked solid, then back the die off half a turn.....size the brass, tighten a little, size, tighten a little, til you have it all the way down. This will make it much easier on your press and how its mounted.You can find brass that will never chamber, but this will work for most of it. You may even be contacting the die with the shellholder. Then wipe each one down and chamber it...your rifle is the best "gauge" you can get.....
 
Just a couple of questions... If your using pulled .50 bullets.. Did you resize the bullets? What brass are you using? Did you fully resize the brass...(Shell holder touching the bottom of the die?)
 
667 said:
My thought exactly.
Hard lesson(s) learned I hope.

You have 3 guns jacked up due to your reloading..?

At the same time...?
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No , i will rephrase . I am very new to re loading , thats why i was asking for advise in the best possible place , here .

The 30-06 was failing to eject the shells completely , likely owing to too light of a powder load . My fault for being overly causious .

The 338 jammed a spent shell in the breach . Now , these are first reload from store bought ammo fired in my rifle by myself .

When these Store bought rounds were first put into the mag , my son and myself had some issues with some of them being a little tight , after we reloaded these rounds is

when that one got stuck in the breach .

Same thing with the 50 cal .

Now it was from some great advise from the members on this board that helped me learn more in the past 2 days ( replying to my pleas for help ) that i learned more than i

could have done reading books . So for that , i thank you .

The biggest thing i learned was to cycle each round through the rifle before even priming , after that is the re sizeing for full length shell .
 
ykkid said:
Gotta love it! A guy with no, zeero, nada experience hops into reloading with a .338 Lapua and a .50 BMG. What can go wrong!!!!

Sheite. Still has provided no details as to bullet design and weight, powder, charge weight, and now, after the fact, trims cases, but it seems to me he may have trimmed BEFORE he resized.

My advice is to buy and read the how-to in two different reloading manuals - Seirra and Hornady come to mind - about the best $150 he will ever spend. Then, pick a nice, old moderate pressure round - his .30'06 is ideal - shoot it in a ridiculously strong action - Rem 700 comes to mind, and learn how to handload. Oh and a volume of the ABC's hould be on every handloader's bench. Ain't much you need to know about making ammo that ain't covered in ABC's.

To F/L re-size .50 BMG, he likely needs to integrate a couple of steel plates into his bench, with a sandwich of plywood benchtop epoxied between. That will stiffen up a benchtop so you can tip the whole thing over before the benchtop fails! And, maybe some lube - Imperial sizing Die wax is likely the best for cases like the .50, and Unique makes a case lube that is very fine as well. Read and heed.

Can't say I agree with notsorichguy. Reloading is not dangerous. But it does take a modicum of caution, a tad of common sense, a willingness to work at learning, and the sense to spend some amount of money to buy the right references and right tools. Oh, and maybe to rely on those references, and not the wondernet for instruction!!
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Thanks for the advise . To be clear on something , you are absolutely correct , i have no clue about handloading , thats why i ask on this board .

As for trimming the cases , i didn't do that until the cases were resized .

I doubt i am the last person to make a mistake , in fact , i'll bet i'm going to make some more either in re loading or , just about anything else that i'm unfamiliar with , thats

how i learn , ohh , and ask advise from people on this site :).
 
Dmay said:
50 military brass can be hard to size, as stated. Make sure ya lube good. If it is still a fight, have the lock-ring on your die locked solid, then back the die off half a turn.....size the brass, tighten a little, size, tighten a little, til you have it all the way down. This will make it much easier on your press and how its mounted.You can find brass that will never chamber, but this will work for most of it. You may even be contacting the die with the shellholder. Then wipe each one down and chamber it...your rifle is the best "gauge" you can get.....
Click to expand...

Got it , thanks , i'll try it again tonight .
 
Kazman1960 said:
Trying to re size the shells is quite difficult . In fact i broke my bench yesterday . I have to beef it up some .
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I think you misunderstood. Did you resize the BULLETS? If your using pulled bullets, the process of taking them out of the original case sometimes makes them out of round and can squish them so they are fatter than the .510 diameter. The can be problematic in loading. Any pulled bullets should be put through a sizer.
 
Missing Something said:
I think you misunderstood. Did you resize the BULLETS? If your using pulled bullets, the process of taking them out of the original case sometimes makes them out of round and can squish them so they are fatter than the .510 diameter. The can be problematic in loading. Any pulled bullets should be put through a sizer.
Click to expand...
I see , i did not re size them . Now for my next question , where or how do i get a unit to resize bullets ?
 
Kazman1960 said:
I see , i did not re size them . Now for my next question , where or how do i get a unit to resize bullets ?
Click to expand...

LEE makes dies for it. Something to look into for sure, but I really think your problem is in resizing. Size 'em til they chamber, and I bet your problems disappear.
 
I highly doubt you need to resize the bullets, measure the diameter in several spots with a micrometer and check for yourself before you waste time and money on tools you don't need.
 
Cleftwynd said:
I highly doubt you need to resize the bullets, measure the diameter in several spots with a micrometer and check for yourself before you waste time and money on tools you don't need.
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Latest update .

I measured some of the projectiles , they are ( according to my micrometer ) 5.10 to 5.13 , i only measured 12 out of 5oo to start with so , i would say not too bad .

Lastly , i fixed my bench using 2.5 inch thick rough cut lumber with 1/4 steel plate on top for extra rigidity .

I full length sized 22 casings , to my amazement , i even managed to de-prime them without too much fuss .

Before the bench fix , i had to punch out the primers withj a 1/8 punch .

Now for the part i don't understand . Out of the 22 i re sized i now have 12 that will cycle through the chamber without jamming , the other 10 will still not go through .

Still , its a better average than what was happening 2 days ago .
 
Kazman1960 said:
Latest update .

I measured some of the projectiles , they are ( according to my micrometer ) 5.10 to 5.13 , i only measured 12 out of 5oo to start with so , i would say not too bad .

Lastly , i fixed my bench using 2.5 inch thick rough cut lumber with 1/4 steel plate on top for extra rigidity .

I full length sized 22 casings , to my amazement , i even managed to de-prime them without too much fuss .

Before the bench fix , i had to punch out the primers withj a 1/8 punch .

Now for the part i don't understand . Out of the 22 i re sized i now have 12 that will cycle through the chamber without jamming , the other 10 will still not go through .

Still , its a better average than what was happening 2 days ago .
Click to expand...

Measure the case length. Resizing cases tends to make them a little longer. Sometimes 1-2 thou makes a difference.
 
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