Reamer Exchange Thread? (Reamer bank) & other tools barrel / action wrenches & vices

I had a K98 barrel that had a 8mm Gibbs chamber

I used the surplus powder from the 8x63, salvaged along with the bullets and the cases were fireformed from 30-06 cases.

The best velocities I could get out of that combo was around 2650fps. Accuracy was OK.

Then I went to IMR4350. I used 62.0grns over CCI250 primers and used Sierra GK 200 gr bullets. Velocities were just over 2750fps out of that barrel and accuracy was very good.

Felt recoil was brutal.

This load wasn't quite as hot as the load suggested steve's pages but an extra couple of grains of 4350 will hardly be noticeable in this case.
 
I will have to get 1 reamed out, bedded and see what it'll do.
If it's a hammer, can always wear a cheater pad. Got 1500 rounds of the Swede surplus...better to shoot it that break it down. Might have look into the redneck method... knick the FMJ tip off in a drill press. The jacket on those bullets is pretty thin IIRC...lead core. Might be MG ammo, but I suspect it was anti-personnel, not anti material.I think the FSU 7.62 x 54 would fair better against light armor. That steel core stuff lights up all fireworks like when you hit it...make sure the plate has a good angle off Vertical before trying that.
Thank you for the suggestions.
 
tokguy said:
I will have to get 1 reamed out, bedded and see what it'll do.
If it's a hammer, can always wear a cheater pad. Got 1500 rounds of the Swede surplus...better to shoot it that break it down. Might have look into the redneck method... knick the FMJ tip off in a drill press. The jacket on those bullets is pretty thin IIRC...lead core. Might be MG ammo, but I suspect it was anti-personnel, not anti material.I think the FSU 7.62 x 54 would fair better against light armor. That steel core stuff lights up all fireworks like when you hit it...make sure the plate has a good angle off Vertical before trying that.
Thank you for the suggestions.
Click to expand...

It's all machinegun ammo, A few rifles were made up for the mg crews by rechambering captured K98s and adding a muzzle brake to tame the brutal recoil. The rifles were sold off to Israel and rebarreled to 7.62 Nato. Only a few exist today, mostly in museums.

Be careful with the powder in those 8x63 cases. There were two types used. One is extruded and looks like 4350 and the other is much smaller grains in the same general shape as RL19. The latter was only part of one crate of the ammo I had.

Yes, the jackets are thin and the bullets have an "exposed" lead core base. This is where that practice of "tipping" fmj bullets gets a bad reputation for jackets being left behind in the bore or slightly in front of the muzzle.

I have seen it happen with surplus 303Brit back in the day and I can't see any reason why it wouldn't happen with these bullets.
 
I have a 243 Winchester rough reamer. Made by Clymer, bought from Brownells, only used twice. $60 shipped

22LR stuff sold.

243 finish reamer sold.
 
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Hi
Looking for .244 rem go/ no go guages, I think 7x57 is the parent case so they should work.anyone care to straighten me out on that fell free to.
Thanks
Dan
 
Thank you for the input on the 6mm/.244
I am the proud owner of a freshly chambered .244
Thanks again. The next project is calling me to the
.260 rem. As such I am looking for a finish reamer for this project.any help would be appreciated
Thanks.

Dan
 
bearhunter said:
Are you looking for a reamer that removes the original chamber and leaves a smooth transition surface instead. It's called a "forcing cone'' reamer
Click to expand...

What I'm looking to do is ream a 2.75"chamber to a 3"chamber in my SxS.

ok so I'm looking to buy or rent a 12 Gauge forcing cone reamer



Found one
 
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Evanguy said:
What I'm looking to do is ream a 2.75"chamber to a 3"chamber in my SxS.

So I figured I could just use a 3" chamber reamer. But cutting the forcing cone deeper with a forcing cone reamer would probably be a better/proper way.



ok so I'm looking to buy or rent a 12 Gauge forcing cone reamer
Click to expand...

I have a forcing cone reamer, made by Clymer, that doesn't appear to have any use.

I also have a 13/16 x 32 tap, with pilot, made by Clymer, for cutting internal choke tube threads.

PM if you need more information
 
Looking for an external action wrench (buy/borrow/whatever) to remove a factory barrel from a tikka t3x action. Or even assitance on removing the factory barrel...im in the aldergrove/abbotsford area. Thanks
 
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