rear sight disassembly

Grizzlypeg

Grizzlypeg

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Anyone know how to dissassemble the rear sights on an M14? I mean completely take it apart. I'm wondering how you remove the elevation knob from the shaft. I'm trying to dissassemble the Garand rear sight I bought on ebay. Its like the cupped washer / spring that I believe resides in the left knob isn't in the same position as the norinco sights. The norinco one's produce more distinct clicks, and I can't see how it could be the V on the knob, as both look identical. I'd like to take it apart and see if the spring is in the wrong position or something. Anyone know how that part disassembles?
 
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Another question I have, Should the tensioning nut on the windage dial, move through any distinct clicks or notches as it's tightened?
 
I have to admit... of all the things with this rifle that i CAN do.... figuring out the damn rear sights is a hurdle i can't seem to get past myself :D
 
I just swapped my Norc sights for USGI M14 sights. I don't think you should try getting the elevation knob off the shaft, but if you are determined, I'd try it on your old Norinco sights first. Better to break those than your M1 sights. When you go to install the new sights, patience is the key. On mine, it was hard to get the shaft on the elevation knob all the way through till it rested against the receiver....it takes finesse, wiggle it around ect, you'll get it eventually. Seems like it doesn't want to get past the splines on the aperture, but it will eventually. The directions on Eyeguy's post are bang on.

Hope this helps.
 
I just did mine... unscrew the screws as much as you can, then with brass punch knock it out :) (right side to left)

Everything else falls apart - the thin cover is held in place by tension (pry it out).

Good luck!
 
I've had mine apart half a dozen times with each of the two sights, USGI and norinco. The assembly goes together as it should, but it just doesn't produce enough tension. I can't figure out why the USGI sight doesn't work as well as the norinco. When I tighten the tension nut on the Garand sight, its like the threads bottom out or something before it creates enough tension to get good firm elevation clicks. It threads onto the shaft alright, I can see that it is. With the norinco sight, I can easily tighten it enough to prevent turning the windage knob, or get the elevation to lock up. Its easy to set the norinco to get firm clicks on elevation. But on the USGI, it won't tighten enough. It tightens to the point the elevation just barely clicks and then won't go any further. I can see from tightening down the windage knob's nut on the bare shaft, that the limiting factor is the overall width of the thick part of the shaft. You can only tighten the windage knobs tension nut down until the windage knob reaches the larger splined part of the shaft. Puzzling as to what's different between the two sets.
 
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Problem solved. I compared the overall width of the inside space of the norinco shaft and two knobs to the Garand setup. The norinco was in fact wider, not narrower. I then reassembled it using the Garand sights and when I tightened down the tension nut and felt what I previously thought was the system bottoming out, yet no clicks of the tension knob, I then tightened it further. Click. The tension knob reached a point that it clicked on half revolution. Voila. The elevation knob was now tighter than ever, and I could still turn the windage. I simply was not tightening it enough. I was afraid I was going to damage it if I tightened it further, thinking it was bottomed out, but it wasn't really. It was just at the first click and that's what was causing the resistance that I didnt' want to overcome. I hate wrecking things by overtightening or forcing something, but this time it looks like I was too gentle. Works great now. Can go to bed at last!!!!
 
Grizzlypeg said:
Problem solved. I compared the overall width of the inside space of the norinco shaft and two knobs to the Garand setup. The norinco was in fact wider, not narrower. I then reassembled it using the Garand sights and when I tightened down the tension nut and felt what I previously thought was the system bottoming out, yet no clicks of the tension knob, I then tightened it further. Click. The tension knob reached a point that it clicked on half revolution. Voila. The elevation knob was now tighter than ever, and I could still turn the windage. I simply was not tightening it enough. I was afraid I was going to damage it if I tightened it further, thinking it was bottomed out, but it wasn't really. It was just at the first click and that's what was causing the resistance that I didnt' want to overcome. I hate wrecking things by overtightening or forcing something, but this time it looks like I was too gentle. Works great now. Can go to bed at last!!!!
Click to expand...

Be careful on threading ...the fine screw threads are rather easy to strip.
 
curved washer? pin spanner?? ugh

trying to work thru this rear sight nightmare. where does the curved washer go? with the elevation knob on the left or with the right windage knob? i'm not even sure it was on the sight cuz i bought the rifle with sight unassembled, including this washer, but no online diagrams including our gun nutz site includes a washer??

also, am i supposed to be using some kind of pin spanner to tighten the locknut onto the elevation knob spline/bolt/screw?? seems like people are saying to use the combo tool, which seems like a flat head screwdriver, but the elevation knob screw protrudes thru the center of the locknut as i tighten it, enough to make it impossible to use a flat head on the locknut notches. pin spanner?? HELP!!
thanks
 
curvy said:
trying to work thru this rear sight nightmare. where does the curved washer go? with the elevation knob on the left or with the right windage knob? i'm not even sure it was on the sight cuz i bought the rifle with sight unassembled, including this washer, but no online diagrams including our gun nutz site includes a washer??
Click to expand...

That is part of the elevation knob assembly to keep tension. Concave side facing the receiver.


also, am i supposed to be using some kind of pin spanner to tighten the locknut onto the elevation knob spline/bolt/screw?? seems like people are saying to use the combo tool, which seems like a flat head screwdriver, but the elevation knob screw protrudes thru the center of the locknut as i tighten it, enough to make it impossible to use a flat head on the locknut notches. pin spanner?? HELP!!
thanks
Click to expand...

Use the above link for instructions to assemble your rear sights. I have never seen an issue using a flat head screwdriver.
 
It sounds as if you have taken you elevation pinion completly apart ?
There is a set of Ordnance tools to take apart and reassemble Elevation pinions . I believe they are Danish made and they work very well !
I have a set and they cost over $100 U.S. ,so unless you are going to be repairing alot of pinons ,it is not worth the cost .

As was previously mentioned the the curved washer does go on the inside toward the the receiver , then put in your elevation drum .
More than likely you damaged the retaining washer getting the pinion apart ?
Without the tool to reform the washer and reseat it back in the way it was done at the factory it is garbage .
The other option that SA inc uses is a internal "C" clip available at hardware stores that fits and retains the drum on the pinion .
This works very well !
I hope this helps ..........
Mike Baker
 
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