rebarreling a #1

Not really, except for the extractor cut. You've got to clear the rib and studs off the barrel for it to turn off, and you can't get your barrel vice very close to the receiver.
The receiver wrench I use for these is two 1" steel bars with a pair of bolts to clamp on the flats, with copper shims to protect the surface. Turned the extended end of one bar round so that I can slip a length of pipe on as a handle.
Did I mention the extractor cut?
 
Rembo said:
any special tricks to this?...I've never had one apart, thinking of rebarreling a 375 H&H to 45-70 with a long octagon barrel....
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Now that's a good idea, I had one of the factory models.........22" barrel on a 45/70 is rediculous. Personally I'd consider 26 inch the shortest, preferably 28", even 30", now that would make a nice unit.
 
Current project is a .220 Swift to .45-70 transformation, using a long, heavy Smith barrel, as a BP target rifle. Currently fitting the forend. Previously did one in .303. Used a factory replacement .30-40 Krag extractor. It had been a .22-.250.
 
no problem for a good smith, you can order a proper replacement extractor, the barrel can not be too wide as it would not clear forearm hanger, I had a #4 Win. sized Oct. barrel installed and it cleared O.K......the only other thing to remember is that the Ruger #1 is not legal for NRA BPCR competition as it must be a copy of pre 1898 action(or orig.) and must have an external hammer. The BPCR competition I'm talking about is Silhoutte.
 
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