Rebuilding a 1956 BRNO Mo. 3 -Need help!-

One of my favorite parts of CGN is that any serious thread will end up with some nuggets of knowledge on it. Dedicated forums really were, and still are so much better than when facebook gobbles up every group and subject ever and everyone is only commenting, quickly, from their phones! Thanks everyone.


Got my hands on the magwell today, and it works great after a few minutes of filing. Currently just using a pen spring cut down and a 0.09" drill as the pin. I'm going to print one more with alignment rails and a little more clearance for the top shoulder. The front hole is still stripped on the receiver, and I will be pondering a fix to make a .2" hole become a M4 thread this weekend. Leaning toward pressing in a threaded insert made from stainless.

The extended mag release is also great/essential. If I keep my CZ, I'll make one for that too.

First case actually chambered, which is why it surprised me and was in there tighter than I expected.

2x 10rd steel mags are due to arrive tomorrow
2x 16mm 1" rings are expected to arrive on the 18th
I have a cheap 4x scope here I can mount but am also on the lookout for a good scope to mount - leaning towards 32mm in case the rings are low.
 
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One advantage of buying the proper rings, instead of milling the receiver, is that if you found a receiver sight, than you can still use it.
But with the barrel cut the front would have to be fitted. There was a flat milled on front of barrel for the globe sight. Inserts where rare, but a little work and other could work.
over the years, I have had 2 or 3 #3's, about the same #4's which are a updated 3, bolt mainly.
Some liked to chop the barrels down, as they thought it was too heavy, long, too bad really.
All great shooters, I had one #4 stock, with target sights that shot a hair better than a Anny 54, thou the fit and finish was not as good.
I have never seen a # 4 with checkering on the stock, a #3 thing seems like .
Century brought in a bunch in the 1980's? or so, most where 4's, but some 3's as well

That custom built is a sight to behold, I did a walnut stock one time for a butchered 4, but it did not look like that one.
 
As you have access to a machine shop why not consider modifying or making a set of rings to fit the action. You should also consider machining a trigger guard. have a look at, Dorleac & Dorleac, works in progress, best quality .22lr man sized.
you could also try western gun parts and Gunco for original parts and rings.
 
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gaff said:
As you have access to a machine shop why not consider modifying or making a set of rings to fit the action. You should also consider machining a trigger guard. have a look at, Dorleac & Dorleac, works in progress, best quality .22lr man sized.
you could also try western gun parts and Gunco for original parts and rings.
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Ironically enough out of the dozens of dovetail cutters we have, we don't have a 60* cutter. I don't want to buy a tool just for this one operation - I could set it up in my 5th axis and tilt a chamfer mill but way too much set up work.

A 11mm ring doesn't have enough material to be widened, and a weaver would need a shim on both sides in order to stay centered. For 24$, Im getting proper 16mm rings next Friday. Once they're here, I can see how large of a scope I can get to mount on this!

Do you guys find AO/side focus really necessary when the goal is shooting 100y max? I only have one place to shoot 200y and that's going to be an uncommon visit. Im 'spoiled' by the 4-12 bushnell (has ao) on my 308 but it seems like most scopes in my budget now dont have it.
 
Jahnj0584 said:
Do you guys find AO/side focus really necessary when the goal is shooting 100y max? I only have one place to shoot 200y and that's going to be an uncommon visit. Im 'spoiled' by the 4-12 bushnell (has ao) on my 308 but it seems like most scopes in my budget now dont have it.
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Parallax adjustment is something usually preferred if you want to shoot under 100yd for a .22LR. Many scopes (typically lower end) have fixed parallax or others have parallax starting at 75-100m.
 
As per Post #25 - my experience is that parallax become more of a thing the closer that you shoot. I have various Leupold rimfire scopes here, for all, the booklet that came with the non AO ones say the parallax is set to 60 yards. I set a Leupold 4x rimfire scope on sandbags in my shop - aimed at a knot on a tree in the yard - perhaps 15 or 20 yards away. By moving my head to one side, until about 1/3 of the view was black, then same to other side, the cross hairs appeared to move completely off the knot, each way - say about the size of a golf ball / squirrel's head. So, if you have a solid repeatable "weld" spot, the parallax thing becomes less important - parallax seems worse issue when you peer through the lenses at an angle, and then do that different for each shot. I notice the scopes for air rifle - so commonly 10 meter bullseye targets - tend to mostly have AO down into that range. I just no longer see good enough to see parallax error much beyond 100 yards - you can check for yourself whether you have an issue - set rifle on sandbags - aim at target - now, without moving rifle, move your head or eye side to side or up and down - if cross hairs appear to move on the target, that is a parallax sighting error that you are seeing happen. Will not be any error, if your eye is always at the exact same spot, for each shot.
 
CP lost my parcel on Wednesday but got it to me today - it contained the 16mm rings that analemma sent me! They fit just right and the only scope i have here is a 4*32 cheapy. Good enough for function tests. I bought a 6-24*40 off the EE Monday, which should fit on Mar 2nd when it arrives. I have 5mm of space with these rings, and the scope is nominally 4mm more! It may also be long enough to shift forward, as there's extra clearance over the barrel once it's past the dovetail rail.

Cleaned up more on the forend. Making sure it has a nice taper from trigger to the end.
Mag well V2 is printed and getting picked up this weekend. I need to get an M6 screw soon to assemble the stock and action together.

I shoved 2x 1/4" bolts through some softwood to make a butt stock extension. Right now the LOP is 14" with it, but still feels tight to me. My elbow crook to bent trigger finger is 13" but still feels off. Gonna try all my other guns and see what works for me!

 
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Got out shooting TWICE this weekend! Weather was -7* for this one, and +5 for todays trip (used my cz instead)

Left target is 5 rds, right target is about 15. The crosshair is as big as that small spinner but grouping is nice and tight! Seems promising for when I get a 24x on there.
Magwell is working great, I'm going to change the angle a bit (about 1/10 rds don't feed properly since the chamber side of the mag is sitting 0.05" lower) and then it'll be right as rain.


 
Scope arrived a week early off the EE. 6-24x40. Just fits!

Cool Mil dot style xhair, with red/green illumination. The chinese say the turrets are resetable, but i'll need a #0 precision driver to test that at the range.



 
MilitaryCollectorMark said:
Very nice! How did you do the schnabel tip?
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First laid out the general shapes by eye then hit the belt sander.

From the orientation of when you shoot, I used the belt sander to form the half round in regards to up/down. Then lay it barrel side down to do the left/right arc. Behind that, I filed in the radius shape of the tip, then using chisels carved the left/right of it to make the peak and left it at that. It all feels very similar to carving a volute on a guitar neck.

It's as close to finished as I want to be with power tools, once the gun is "done done" I will sand everything to 220 and throw some dark walnut stain on there.

Potash emailed me an old excerpt from a magazine on how one guy forms his, but it was after I was done mine. It would help out an average person whos never done carving before.
 
Bought a 3D printer two weeks ago. Finally got an empty day to do something.

Made an adjustable buttstock that i'll leave at 14.5" LOP. I think it makes a HUGE difference.


 
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Nice work, and thanks for sharing your project! I also have access to machine shop equipment, and I actually went through nearly the same process with the optic. The difference was that I had the 60 deg. dovetail, and made myself a one piece style mount to put a large 34mm tube scope on my 1956 model 3. It worked out well, and the model 3 is ridiculously accurate and a lot of fun to shoot. I was not as crafty with the LOP adjustment, but my solution is functional with no alteration of the stock.
 
Made a checkering tool at work, recut one side so far. Will clean the other side and finish the border later with a 1/8 chisel.

Still shooting it every time I go to the range. Eventually, I will finish sand it and stain it some sort of brown, not sure yet.


 
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