blasted: so, as you've probably already figured, you need rear sight protector ears and fasteners, outer band (with sling swivel and screw), nosecap with two screws, etc. I assume the inner band is still present (fits around the barrel) and being used for the current sling swivel attachment? The new forend may or may not come with a small threaded steel nut that fits into the forend near the tip (the lower nosecap screw goes into it). My main recommendation is to hold onto your old sporterized forend and use it as a template for the shaving/ filing of the "draws" that you'll have to do if you're starting with a new forend. I use a vernier caliper to measure from the rear top of the forend to the top of the angled draws. You need to reduce the wood while leaving the angle the same, which is challenging. Using the caliper you can get near the point where the forend just starts to ride over the draws, after which you start removing very little at a time and rechecking the fit over and over. If your "new" forend is used you may find the fit to be too loose- then one option is to use the kind of copper blocks the Aussies routinely used on the draws. You might be able to use the forend that way (the standard blocks are 0.100 inch thick) without having to resort to a full patch of the draws. Study up on the info available on the Milsurps Lee Enfield forum.
milsurpo
