rechamber/barrel 280 ross

[tiriaq]

Two different breeching systems.
The Brewer/Savage system allows a straight shank barrel to be turned into a receiver, and locked in place by a barrel nut. Usually the locking nut has the same threads as the receiver ring.
A collar, or sleeve, as used in the Cooey/Carcano, or in the LEC carbine receiver based classic styled sporting rifle currently being discussed in another thread, allow a smaller diameter barrel to be fitted, but the collar essentially reduces the inside diameter of the receiver ring.
Either technique allows use of a barrel that has a shank diameter that is too smal to fit conventionally to be used.
In my salvage pile is a Remington 700 take-off barrel originally in .308 that I rechambered to .300WinMag. Got some chatter right at the end of the chambering process. I could shorten the barrel a couple of threads, and redo the chamber, but instead, I used a different barrel for the project. I could salvage this barrel by cutting off most of the offending .300WM chamber, and fitting the remaining barrel to a collar. This would allow a different chamber to be cut, and the barrel retrofitted to a different action.

 

[vykkagur]

Two different breeching systems.
The Brewer/Savage system allows a straight shank barrel to be turned into a receiver, and locked in place by a barrel nut. Usually the locking nut has the same threads as the receiver ring.
A collar, or sleeve, as used in the Cooey/Carcano, or in the LEC carbine receiver based classic styled sporting rifle currently being discussed in another thread, allow a smaller diameter barrel to be fitted, but the collar essentially reduces the inside diameter of the receiver ring.
Either technique allows use of a barrel that has a shank diameter that is too smal to fit conventionally to be used.
In my salvage pile is a Remington 700 take-off barrel originally in .308 that I rechambered to .300WinMag. Got some chatter right at the end of the chambering process. I could shorten the barrel a couple of threads, and redo the chamber, but instead, I used a different barrel for the project. I could salvage this barrel by cutting off most of the offending .300WM chamber, and fitting the remaining barrel to a collar. This would allow a different chamber to be cut, and the barrel retrofitted to a different action.

Exactly. I have some take-off 700 barrels collected also - great minds, etc. I don't plan them for any Ross projects, but they're excellent for some of the less exacting ones. The advantage of 700 barrels is, that it's suspiciously easy to find unused take-offs. So many guys are buying them just for the actions. I've actually got one in .300 Win Mag with a threaded muzzle, unfired. The only caveat with this or any forged barrel is that it's risky to try to re-profile them. Often they can noticeably distort when you cut the surface. But if you're happy to use the profile as is, they're a great option for a economical blank.

If you do go the adapter route, please take plenty of pictures and share. It'll be very informative for all here (as are all your posts, I'm noticing). I only wish I'd retained pictures of mine as they went along.

 

[tiriaq]

Not to derail the Ross content, but the second Rem 700 barrel was a pretty much new stainless. It screwed on and headspaced with an appropriate recoil lug. I threaded the muzzle and installed a gilled brake which I had on hand. The rifle is set up in a HS stock; shoots sub-minute with 155gr SMKs. Not as pleasant to shoot as my .260 or .308s, but the velocity is right up there, so it should reach out very well.

Back to Rosses - I have a reprint of an old machinists' magazine article detailing manufacture of early Ross rifles. There is a photo of the barrel threading machine. As was common during the period, it is a single purpose machine. Hard to see detail, but I suspect it is a cross between a mill and a lathe. I have great respect for anyone who can cut the 1905 barrel thread. My lathe certainly doesn't have that tpi, and I'm not sufficiently motivated to even consider trying to do something with the gear train.

 

[vykkagur]

Not to derail the Ross content, but the second Rem 700 barrel was a pretty much new stainless. It screwed on and headspaced with an appropriate recoil lug. I threaded the muzzle and installed a gilled brake which I had on hand. The rifle is set up in a HS stock; shoots sub-minute with 155gr SMKs. Not as pleasant to shoot as my .260 or .308s, but the velocity is right up there, so it should reach out very well.

Back to Rosses - I have a reprint of an old machinists' magazine article detailing manufacture of early Ross rifles. There is a photo of the barrel threading machine. As was common during the period, it is a single purpose machine. Hard to see detail, but I suspect it is a cross between a mill and a lathe. I have great respect for anyone who can cut the 1905 barrel thread. My lathe certainly doesn't have that tpi, and I'm not sufficiently motivated to even consider trying to do something with the gear train.

He used a lathe from 1917, so 3 t.p.i. was on the gearbox already. Ditto my 1912 Sheldon. After that, it was just a question of grinding the correct profile. This is bringing back dark visions of my apprenticeship's long sojourn on the optical comparator...