RECIPE FOR LAZY 7.62 x 39 CORROSIVE AMMO SHOOTER

A hypothetical: If one has a case that fits the gun that is airtight and watertight, then one could store the gun in there with a drying agent and a oxygen removal agent, and the gun would need to be cleaned as infrequently as a gun that never sees corrosive ammunition.
 
I do believe the information give by the OP is very useful for certain circumstances. It might be more expensive than cleaning your gun but what if you just want to leave it in the safe for a few weeks months after you shoot it? If you are willing to pay for this convenience after shooting say 1120 rounds of corrosive, then it's still not too much to pay.

I know a few guys that would pay me $20 to clean their SKS after they shoot some corrosive. :D
 
pie1 said:
A hypothetical: If one has a case that fits the gun that is airtight and watertight, then one could store the gun in there with a drying agent and a oxygen removal agent, and the gun would need to be cleaned as infrequently as a gun that never sees corrosive ammunition.
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I have a dehumidifier on my gun safe for my pretties... Most of them just sit and look good in the dark. No moisture, no rust.

The pigs on the walls sit oiled.
 
I brought my "new" ChiCom SKS out in the boonies a few weeks ago, and just used cold river water to flush out and clean the components. I stripped it completely yesterday, and it still looks like new. Once you get used to it, it isn't that big of a deal to clean an SKS, or a bolt action rifle after firing corrosive ammo through it. My SVT40, on the other hand, is a bit more complex, which is why I dont shoot it as much as I'd like to....:(
 
Stevo said:
You know most SKSs have chrome-lined bores, right?
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Well, my SKS rifle is an old import, all original, made by TULA and dated 1949.

It's certainaly not a chromed bore, because Rusky start to chrome SKS barrel bore some where in 1952.

I shot a couple of hundred rounds of corrosive ammo with this rifle, and to clean it, I throw in the pipe 10 rounds of non corrosive (grey box) Chinese ammo, and all it done to my next shooting.

No mess with oil, WD40, hot water etc, etc,

Nothing spoil the floor and my working bench.
 
Cleaning a gun isn't difficult, I don't understand what the big deal is. Water, boiling or not, will take those corrosive salts out no problem. I always follow that with Hoppes and oil, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist. :D
 
Dave_K said:
I've never used boiling water, I just scrub and use solvent.

I'm not sure about the non-corrosive ammo thing. Doesn't seem like it would get the gas system very well.
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I have 2 SKS, one chinese and one russian,and this is what I do, haven't had a problem yet in the 2 years I've owned them...I clean it like any other gun, it just takes longer...I hope I'm not looking at rust problems in the future though:eek:
 
meh, if you live in an area where the humidity is lower, maybe you can get away with not flushing it out with a suitable solvent, but here, I have to use boiling water followed by drying, then scrubbing with hoppes, wiping with rags, and then preservative, even still I have to keep checking on them.
 
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Ok, I'll let my long held secret out. The best way to retard or prolong the rusting process is nothing more than a $10.00 can of KROWN RUST rustproofing spray. You can get it at any KROWN RUST francise. I was running 9 AKs daily for 2 weeks on a movie once using corrosive ammo, and just about lost my mind living at the parts washer every night. I suddenly thought, if the stuff that keeps my car from rusting works, why would'nt it work on my guns. Well it does work, hose your gun down and walk away. you might want to incorperate a rag if you over do it like me. And the beauty of this stuff is the hotter the gun, the more it creeps into cracks and crevises, of course the stuff in the barrel and gas tube gets burnt off so you still have to spritz it again after you shoot.
It's also non toxic so you don't have to worry about little things like dieing or your testicals shrinking.
 
Stevo said:
Boil a kettle of water, use a funnel and pour 2/3 of it through the bore and the rest into the gas block, then clean as normal.

Easy as falling off a log.

Usually I've got the bolt/carrier assembly out of the gun, sometimes not. At minimum you need to remove the upper handguard and piston.
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X2, take's just a few minutes. You can strip the rifle while waiting for the water to boil.
 
I dont think it is a question of if we hate cleaning ours guns its just sometimes a pain in the ass to have to do it the minute you get home for fear of rust, and to not have the luxury of leaving it until you can sit down with a cup of coffee and enjoy the whole experience, i don't shoot corrosive ammo through alot of my guns just because i don't have the time to clean them right afterwards so anything to maybe postponed that is a blessing in my opinion, so thank you for all of the tips
 
stevey3737 said:
I dont think it is a question of if we hate cleaning ours guns its just sometimes a pain in the ass to have to do it the minute you get home for fear of rust, and to not have the luxury of leaving it until you can sit down with a cup of coffee and enjoy the whole experience, i don't shoot corrosive ammo through alot of my guns just because i don't have the time to clean them right afterwards so anything to maybe postponed that is a blessing in my opinion, so thank you for all of the tips
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HOLY THREAD REVIVING BATMAN!?! Last post before yours was almost 1.5 YEARS before.
 
Wont your gas tube rust from the hot water and no putting any kinda of oil on it after?
Doc M said:
It takes me about 5 minutes.

Strip it down, remove the piston, etc.

Lay everything out on your "dirty" towel. Take hot water from your tap, and put it into a measuring cup or a squeeze bottle (I use a squeeze-bottle like one you'd see fast-food condiments in; $2.99 @ a Real Canadian Wholesale for a bigass clear squeeze bottle). Squeeze/pour a healthy dose into the gas tube, filling it and letting it overflow. This will back-wash the gas tube salts into the bore and out the muzzle. Do this over your sink, obviously.

Then, fill with fresh hot water (or if it's hot enough, just keep going) and squeeze the rest of the bottle through the bore. Put your lips around the gas tube and blow out the "drop" that will stick in the gas port because of surface tension.

If the water was hot enough, you'll have a pretty warm barrel/gas tube assembly. Set it aside to dry (on a clean towel), which it should in short order. Wipe the outside if you like; wipe the inside with dry patches if you like.

Run your piston under running tap hot water, and scrub the carbon out of the grooves if it's piling up. Set it aside to dry too (clean towel), which will go much faster if you just wipe it dry first.

Clean and oil the rest of the mechanism while this happens (I find there's not too much blowback through the action into the bolt/carrier, but I give it some love anyway - Breakfree CLP is what I use, but just use whatever you oil the gun with). Takes just a few minutes, and you're waiting for the barrel/gas tube to dry anyway.

Now that your upper assembly is dry, run one oiled patch through the barrel. LEAVE THE GAS TUBE 100% DRY.

Reassemble.

Done.

-M
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Chargerguy said:
I truly enjoy disassembling and cleaning my rifle after every corrosive shoot. I'm lucky I dont have an issue with it, because with the price of ammunition for this thing, I can afford to shoot it as much as I want, whenever I want. Sometimes I just shoot to bring up the round count.
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:agree: yes I think disassembling and cleaning is half the fun in a SKS.

It is one of the simpliest rifle to clean, I even do it at the range and in the woods.
 
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