Now I'm pretty new to this and slowly working my way up in size. I got a 308 bolt but no muzzle break. What recoil management suggestions do you all have. I keep working on the fundimentals especcially with the .22lr (got consecutive hits at 200m just for to see if I could the other day). But when I shoot my 308 I find my self bouncing all over the place. I had a more experienced shooter help me to make sure my rifle and ammo was good with the scope and he got it so they were just bigger than a one hole group. So. How do you stop from bouncing around when you try to take a precision shot? The recoil isn't scaring me or hurting. Rifle just moves too much.
Recoil control
- Thread starter Funguns5
- Start date
To best mitigate recoil you have to either have a heavy rifle (18+ lbs in 308) or have a brake, or BOTH! If you look at the best precision rifle shooters in the world you will see them all running brakes on their 6 mm's, 6.5's and 308's, not because the recoil is harsh, but because braking a rifle is one of the easiest ways to eliminate recoil. As for the weight, a lot of disciplines and hunters will use the same thought pattern of eliminating recoil through weight management, look at the BR Heavy guns for example. Coming from the precision/tactical side of things, I would recommend building your 308 to weigh over 20 lbs and install an Insite Heathen, APA Little bastard, Khanstrol Solutions, Mad Scientist, MDT, Cadex, etc. muzzle brake!
I'm with Hogie on this. When I'm on my game the rifle will move straight up and not lose the target. I can spot my own shots from 100m out depending on what and how I'm shooting. When I'm not lined up properly it will jump up and to the left. No matter the distance, it's touch and go if I can spot my shots. I also agree with the brake. You may not need it for lighter loads but it will help in staying on target. I shoot .300wm and .338LM and get the same results with the .308 when I'm using the proper fundamentals. You will lose center sight of the target on every shot but if it returns to the POA on the target then you are doing it right. I just wish I could do it on every shot...
Ok so muzzle break sounds like the best investment right now, I want an MDT chassis eventually but need the funds. I kept hearing the APA little bastard break was good but haven't saw any from any dealers or LGS. Besides the heathan break any other recomendations?
It sounds like your set up is ok as verified by another shooter. It sounds more like form on your end.
I struggled with this because what seemed comfortable shooting position wasn't giving me the results I wanted. The position that I finally learned seemed out of place. My shoulder were even and the rifle was straight in front of me. Not a natural feeling position but I was on target and groups were better.
I can do this off bipod or bags, bench or prone and get good results.
When you find the right body position your accuracy improves. You should be able to find this in any caliber.
I find 22 helps me the most for keeping good form. An accurate 22 with good ammo at 50 m really shows my bad habits in a hurry. As little as the recoil is it still shows up on paper.
I struggled with this because what seemed comfortable shooting position wasn't giving me the results I wanted. The position that I finally learned seemed out of place. My shoulder were even and the rifle was straight in front of me. Not a natural feeling position but I was on target and groups were better.
I can do this off bipod or bags, bench or prone and get good results.
When you find the right body position your accuracy improves. You should be able to find this in any caliber.
I find 22 helps me the most for keeping good form. An accurate 22 with good ammo at 50 m really shows my bad habits in a hurry. As little as the recoil is it still shows up on paper.
Like others have said, position is key. You want to be straight behind the rifle. It helps to set up a phone/camera on a tripod above and in front/or behind you so that you can see how you are setting up. It will feel awkward at first but you just have to get used to it. Also make sure you find your natural point of aim, that way you will return on target once you have absorbed the recoil. With practice you should be able to break a shot at 100 yards and although your muzzle will come up with the recoil force, your crosshairs should settle back on the target.
Brakes are great for mitigating recoil and I have them on all my rifles (except my .223 trainer barrel) but you should be able to properly control the recoil impulse from prone on all but the heaviest recoiling rifles. I'd suggest working on your fundamentals before getting a brake. Once you have that under control, get a brake as they are the key to managing recoil from positions other than prone.
Brakes are great for mitigating recoil and I have them on all my rifles (except my .223 trainer barrel) but you should be able to properly control the recoil impulse from prone on all but the heaviest recoiling rifles. I'd suggest working on your fundamentals before getting a brake. Once you have that under control, get a brake as they are the key to managing recoil from positions other than prone.
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This is a good video for learning proper body position.
A muzzle brake will make this process so much easier as less recoil is always easier to shoot... but you need to learn the fundamentals so bad habits don't become ingrained.
I like these big brakes and they reduce recoil substantially. Let me know if I can supply.
Just remember that shooting a foldy bipod is a learnt skill.. big reason F TR shooters don't use them as there are other bipods which are so much easier to use... and so much more precise.
Good luck
Jerry
This is a good video for learning proper body position.
A muzzle brake will make this process so much easier as less recoil is always easier to shoot... but you need to learn the fundamentals so bad habits don't become ingrained.
I like these big brakes and they reduce recoil substantially. Let me know if I can supply.
Just remember that shooting a foldy bipod is a learnt skill.. big reason F TR shooters don't use them as there are other bipods which are so much easier to use... and so much more precise.
Good luck
Jerry
Attachments
Im not one to tell anybody how to shoot, I have the same issues as you. Just thought you might want to see the thread I've got going on it, too!
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...995-POA-after-shot-follow-through-Help-please
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...995-POA-after-shot-follow-through-Help-please
I love shooting a brake. But honestly it’s a band aid. From my experience. If you’re (I’m) shooting with everything in line, it doesn’t matter if there’s a brake or not. The rifle will recoil straight back. And that’s the important part. The brake just tunes this down a degree. Which doesn’t help fundamentals. IMO. I stress hard about my fundementals. Because technology will never overcome them.
