Recoil pads and LOP

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pilot24

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I'm looking to install an aftermarket recoil pas on my remmy BDL. Since the plastic pad already there is pretty thin, I was wondering if the new pad would make the lenght of pull just to long....Thinking about limbsaver...

How would I go about installing it, would I have to cut the wood?. Right now the shape of the stock is not square but round...

any help appreciated here!!

Pilot
 
Yes... you need to cut the stock to "square it" first.

Depending on the thickness of the pad, you will need to calculate the finished L.O.P. with the reduction of the "squaring-up" cut taken into consideration.

You will also need to preserve ( or alter ) the "Pitch Down" required. Pitch is usually expressed by the distance the barrel is "pitched down" as measured by how much less it is (measured in inches) from perpindicular ... i.e., with the buttstock perfectly flat on the floor and the top of the receiver just touching a vertical surface, the distance the barrel is away from the perpendicular surface. A new Remington 7600 has a pitch down of about 4" for the 22" barrel version. Yours may be more or less.
 
Just thinking,

What if I take the new pad, square the shoulder line with the one already there and draw the cut line from there? Would that be a good way of determining easily where to cut?
 
Big 1" thick recoil pads look out of place on anything but the big bores. A thinner 1/2" or 3/4" looks much better, IMO. It really depends on what caliber you are using.

I don't know why Remington, until lately, has insisted in using those dumb plastic butt plates. At the very least, it should be a rubber butt plate to keep the gun from slipping when stood up. :mad:



sc


 
The gun is chambered for the extra hard hitting .243 :D

Looks are not the most important here, the limsaver are definitely longer than 1''!!! I'll have to check what other options there are, but I have another on a 30-30 and just love it.
 
Pilot 24....

That will work O.K. The Limbsaver pad I'm looking at in hand
( a "Large", # 10543 ) is almost exactly 1" in thickness, and it will look
O.K. on your gun once completed. Measure your most comfortable length of pull from the cetre of the trigger to the mid point of the butt. Most factory Remington's are supposed to be about 13-1/2". Check & double check before you cut and leave enough to file/sand to a flat smooth finish. I like to seal the end grain of the stock with a little Tru-oil & allow it to dry thoroughly before mounting the pad.

Remember ... " measure twice ... cut once". It is important to follow the grinding instructions supplied with the pad ... both as to belt speed and abrasive grit recommendation. I have found it helpful to freeze the pad first ( for about three or four hours in the freezer ) immediately before mounting & grinding. Helps achieve a better finish on this super soft pad.
 
"...those dumb plastic butt plates..." They're cheap when you buy thousands of 'em at a time. It's all about cost cutting.
"...cut the wood..." Only if the length of pull is right for you now. Otherwise, cut off the thickness of the pad using a mitre saw or mitre box and a sharp, fine toothed, hand saw. Drill the new screw holes using the right diameter drill. Then install the pad and sand off the excess with a belt sander. Put some masking tape on the stock to protect the finish.
Adding a recoil pad is a good way to adjust the length of pull to fit the rifle to you perfectly. Just cut off as much wood as is required for you.
 
Simple answer ... when you bring the gun up smoothly and quickly over several attempts, does it get "hung-up" under your arm pit or catch on your clothing ?? - "Too Long" .... or, when you shoot the gun, do you get bumped in the nose, or much worse, get a nice little crescent half-moon scope cut over your eye ?? - Too Short !

My version is that you want to be able to grasp the pistol grip firmly with the hand you normally would and place the gun to your shoulder. If you are a right handed shooter - take your left hand and use your fingers to measure
( in finger widths ) the distance between the tips of your right hand finger tips (when wrapped around the pistol grip) and your nose ( with your cheek planted firmly on the comb of the rifle where you normally would, and where the eye relief of the scope is at optimum ) For me - I like "two minimum, to three maximum" finger widths - about 2" to 2-3/4" - from the "wrapped around fingers of my right hand to my nose. Maybe not scientific, but WORKS FOR ME !
 
"...determining the ideal LOP..." The best way is to be measured by a smithy. However, that's expensive. The other way is to put the butt in your elbow and grasp the grip. If it feels right and you can easily reach the trigger with your finger, its right for you. As daft as it sounds, you can shoulder a yard stick just like you do a rifle and look where your finger is too.
 
A decent rule-of-thumb method is to start with the standard 13 1/2" for rifles, and 14" for shotguns. The average man is 5"10" so add or subtract 1/8"for every inch over or under average you are. For example I'm 6' 1" and like a 13 7/8" LOP on a rifle and 14 3/8" on a shotgun. It's not an exact science, but it will get you real close, 1/8" one way or the other. That gives you a little room to play. Rifles that will be used in cold weather can be at the short end of this range, as will those fired offhand alot. Bench and prone shooters like a little more length, so they can stray toward the longer end.
A lot of good shooting has been done with ill-fitting stocks, some shooters seem horrified by changing anything about their pieces. The same people wouldn't dream of wearing shoes that didn't fit.:confused:
The elbow crook method is mentioned a lot. Oddly enough no distinction ever seems to be made between rifles and shotguns, so the proponents of this system either believe that rifles and scatterguns should fit the same, or that 1/2" one way or the other doesn't matter. :rolleyes:
Dogleg
 
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