Recoil Question

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Geoff B

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I'm new to shotguns, so please excuse this dumb question- does recoil vary with load, assuming all other variables are the same?
From reading posts on this site, I have the impression that slugs produce greater recoil than buckshot and buckshot has a greater recoil than #8 shot. All from the same gun and same brand of ammo. Correct? Why?
Geoff
 
Heavier payload will have more recoil than lighter payloads.

More velocity, or Dram Equivalent, will have more recoil than a lighter load.

Slugs and buckshot have a specific purpose, defense or killing large mammals. Because of this they typically have maximum velocity and/or increased payload. Note ~ There are "reduced recoil" loads, but they sacrifice payload and/or velocity.

For less recoil, choose a lighter payload and reduced velocity.
 
The way you hold the shotgun affects the perceived recoil as well. With your dominant hand, pull the stock to your shoulder and with the non-dominant hand (on the forend), push forward. You will want to exert more pushing force than pulling force, say about 70-30. I find this helps absorb recoil pretty well.
 
skoal said:
Reduced recoil rounds suck if its too much punch get a limbsaver
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I really like them, but I don't hunt. I really enjoy shooting the low-recoil Remington Slugger and 00 buck...it has been suggested to me that the slugs are also more accurate than the full-power Sluggers, but I haven't seen any actual evidence or testing.
 
killer1963daddy said:
this sounds very unstable
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Actually you'd be surprised. Here is a good video demonstration of it in action:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WytVNNnDHno


BTW, since I started using this technique, I find I can shoot about 40 percent faster than with the traditional technique. Mind you, I'm fairly new to shotgun shooting but its hard to argue with a PACT timer.
Also, I find that it completely stops that rocking back and forth of the body with each shot that you normally see when people shoot shotguns.
 
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ganymede said:
The way you hold the shotgun affects the perceived recoil as well. With your dominant hand, pull the stock to your shoulder and with the non-dominant hand (on the forend), push forward. You will want to exert more pushing force than pulling force, say about 70-30. I find this helps absorb recoil pretty well.
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I'm not a fan of opposed force hold on a long gun. The chances are you will create a space between the butt of the gun and your shoulder the moment you fire, and you will get pasted. The correct way to maintain control when firing a shotgun is with firm contact with the shoulder which means that both hands pull rearward. The proper stance and correct gun fit is the best way to manage recoil. Most adults do well with a 13"-13.5" LOP, although a stock that is too short is less punishing than one that is too long. The correct technique is with your feet roughly shoulder width apart, take a boxer's stance towards the target, then bend your forward knee slightly so your center of gravity moves forward, and you have slightly more weight on your front foot than your back foot. Upon firing, the recoil impulse moves across your chest and down your rearward leg. If you are shooting a pump, the recoil will unlock the slide and the gun seemingly ejects the spent round automatically, then when you push the slide forward to chamber your subsequent round, it helps you roll onto the next target.

The recoil produced by shooting is determined by the weight of the projectile or shot load and the volume of powder used to propel it. Your example of #8 shot producing less recoil than larger shot doesn't really work. Small shot like #8 is most often loaded in low brass field or target loads. The shot weight is light and the velocity is low. If we were to compare say #4 shot in low brass where the shot load was exactly the same weight, recoil would be equal. If a load of #4 birdshot and an equivalent weight of #4 buckshot where both fired in 3" shells with maximum powder charges, the recoil again would be exactly the same; as it would be regardless of whether the projectile was a plastic wad full of shot or a lead slug of equal weight.
 
Boomer said:
I'm not a fan of opposed force hold on a long gun. The chances are you will create a space between the butt of the gun and your shoulder the moment you fire, and you will get pasted.
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With a little practice, this will not be an issue. It usually takes a little while to master a new technique. The way I was taught to shoot a pistol was with a Weaver stance and when I first tried the isosceles stance, I had a hard time with it. After trying it a little while though, I saw that this was a superior technique, especially when shooting on the move - which is why you almost all top shooters in IDPA, IPSC and USPSA. There are people who will say the Weaver is superior though but I suspect these same people have never tried anything else. BTW, the push pull technique is the technique taught at most fighting shotgun courses.
 
ganymede said:
With a little practice, this will not be an issue. It usually takes a little while to master a new technique. The way I was taught to shoot a pistol was with a Weaver stance and when I first tried the isosceles stance, I had a hard time with it. After trying it a little while though, I saw that this was a superior technique, especially when shooting on the move - which is why you almost all top shooters in IDPA, IPSC and USPSA. There are people who will say the Weaver is superior though but I suspect these same people have never tried anything else. BTW, the push pull technique is the technique taught at most fighting shotgun courses.
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The push-pull technique of Weaver is how I prefer to shoot a pistol, but it doesn't apply to long guns. I'm not a participant in any of the gamesmanship courses of fire, so for me Weaver works fine as my handgun shooting is more of a practical nature. I don't wear body armor, and yes I've tried isosceles . . it sucks, providing little control with hard kicking guns.
 
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