Recoil spring weights (lbs)? Beretta 92 Tuning experts?

st1264

st1264

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I bought a used Beretta 92FS, it had crappy plastic grips on it so I bought new Hogue's. The grip screws were ugly too (one was stripped), so I wanted to buy new ones. Seemed like a waste to buy just grip screws from Brownells so added two steel guide rods (each from a different manufacturer) and a few springs, some with different weights. I believe the factory spring weight is 13 lbs, so I bought a 13 lb, plus some extra power springs: 15,16,18,20 lbs with 3 extra power firing pin springs (doubt I'll be that brave to mess with the firing pin spring).
l_969131900_1.jpg


Just wondering who has a 92 and what spring weight they are using and why. What did you do to your 92?

I was watching this Beretta 92FS tuning video and it gave me some ideas. Would really like to do the trigger & spring swap too, but I doubt I'll delve that deep into it, for the fear of messing something up. Figured I'd keep what I liked or what worked best and throw the other stuff on the EE.
 
Hitzy said:
The 15lb recoil spring will work, the heavier ones likely won't....
Click to expand...

So the higher power springs would be for hotter handloads or something? There must be some science to the spring weights... Sounds like you are suggesting I not use anything but the 13 and 15 lb spring?
 
Lots of folks use 15lb springs in the full sized 92, helps reduce some of the battering. I use 15lb as well....with standard 115 factory ammo, ejection is probably 1/3 what it was with the 13lb spring in it, brass mostly lands just to the right of my feet...
 
I find the whole recoil spring adjustment debate kinda funny. Unless you are at the top heap of your chosen sport (IPSC, IDPA, whatever), playing with different weight recoil springs is probably not going to do much for you. Can you track your front sight now during recoil? Do you follow it consistently throughout your course(s) of fire? Would gaining .10 on your splits really make that much of a difference to your overall performance? Do you shoot powder puff hand loads that barely cycle the gun? If the answer to those questions is no, I would stick with the factory recoil spring, swap it out every 5K and bask in the added reliability it provides.
 
Clobbersauras said:
I find the whole recoil spring adjustment debate kinda funny. Unless you are at the top heap of your chosen sport (IPSC, IDPA, whatever), playing with different weight recoil springs is probably not going to do much for you. Can you track your front sight now during recoil? Do you follow it consistently throughout your course(s) of fire? Would gaining .10 on your splits really make that much of a difference to your overall performance? Do you shoot powder puff hand loads that barely cycle the gun? If the answer to those questions is no, I would stick with the factory recoil spring, swap it out every 5K and bask in the added reliability it provides.
Click to expand...

I'm just a range guy and bought a used 92 with an unknown round count. Just wanted to change some of the parts that wear out and was wondering about the different weights. All I really care about is reliability and going bang every time I pull the trigger. So will anyone buy these extra Wolf recoil/firing pin springs if I put them on the EE? Especially the 16,18,20 lb springs if you guys say how useless they are?

Anyone do the trigger mod in the video I posted (new metal trigger and spring)?
 
Original spring fired 100% of the time ,but trigger pull was crazy hard, so I got the spring pack you have.
15 lb mainspring was not enough to fire some of my 9 mm rounds about 1 time of of 5 to 10 on the double action trigger pull
16 lb worked 98% of the time.
So I am using the 17 lb spring. Last week at a competition it failed once.

If it fails one more time, I'm going back to the original spring that the gun came with.

I have 10,000+ rounds through my 92FS, one cracked locking block.
 
I'm confused, are you guys talking about main springs or recoil springs?

It's main spring slides over the hammer strut. It can help reduce or increase trigger pull. I use a D spring in my Elite II (16lbs) and a 13lb mainspring in my Girsan. No issues at all with reliability. Factory standard is 20lbs.

The recoil spring slides over the guide rod. Factory standard is 13lbs. I don't see any reason to go up in weight. There are some reasons to go down, but only if you are skilled enough to see the improvement.
 
So I have 2 Wolff 13 lb recoil springs, one is the same size as the one in my 92FS and one is about 2cm longer. I put the longer one in with a SS guide rod (took out the plastic one) and I like the way it feels. Will try both at the range and see what happens.
 
st1264 said:
Why didn't you just do the trigger mod and keep the 13 lb spring?
Click to expand...

I am talking about the mainstring, which influences trigger pull (the one that sits over the hammer strut)
I tried a D-spring, and it also did not reliably fire.
It may be that my heavily used gun's firing pin is not working well.


There's no real trigger modification you can do with a 92FS.
Best you can do, apparently, is this
p_969000060_1.jpg
 
TJspeller said:
There's no real trigger modification you can do with a 92FS.
Best you can do, apparently, is this
p_969000060_1.jpg
Click to expand...

This is what I was referring to, what the guy did in the video I posted, he said the trigger reach is slightly shorter, DA is down by 2.5 lbs and SA by 1.5 lbs. The pic up there is the trigger spring he used.

Wilson Combat Short Reach Steel Trigger, Reduced Power Trigger Conversion Unit (Wolf Springs), Reduced Power Hammer Spring
 
I use a d spring and have never had a failure.

Also using the Wilson combat short reach trigger.
That Wolff trigger spring does very little, its a little more robust, made my trigger feel a little heavier
 
kage123 said:
I use a d spring and have never had a failure.

Also using the Wilson combat short reach trigger.
That Wolff trigger spring does very little, its a little more robust, made my trigger feel a little heavier
Click to expand...

p_913100493_1.jpg


D-Spring, I think I should try that. So the wolff trigger spring doesn't lighten the trigger pull? Can I just drop the d-spring in (not do anything to the trigger assembly) and notice an improvement?

Pretty new to the Beretta 92, if I didn't say before.
 
D spring is a quick drop in, huge reduction in trigger pull, especially in double action. No need to modify the trigger or anything, unless you want to go to a short reach or something. The Wolff spring thing is just the trigger return spring. The hammer spring is the one that will actually change trigger pull
 
Also, if you are doing the d spring, do you have a US or Italy made 92?

Italian ones typically use a roll pin to keep he lanyard loop in place, us ones use a much simpler pin that doesn't require a punch to remove. If you have an Italian one with a roll pin, switch the roll pin out for the american style pin
 
st1264 said:
This is what I was referring to, what the guy did in the video I posted, he said the trigger reach is slightly shorter, DA is down by 2.5 lbs and SA by 1.5 lbs. The pic up there is the trigger spring he used.

Wilson Combat Short Reach Steel Trigger, Reduced Power Trigger Conversion Unit (Wolf Springs), Reduced Power Hammer Spring
Click to expand...

I use it.
Difference is marginal. The trigger pull feels a tiny bit smoother, more even across the entire length of the pull. Also, it can only be used if you have a metal trigger. The slightly different shape of the polymer trigger (more commonly found) blocks the installation of this spring modification.
 
FWIW I have been running that trigger return spring kit for about four years now; I've also been running the D-spring for 5 or 6 years. I played around with different mainspring weights and can't remember how I came to settle on the "D" spring, but that's what I've been running.

As stated above the trigger kit, I don't notice much change. (Edit: I think I must have seen SOME difference over stock or I would have taken it out! It's also been trouble free and appears to be a more reliable set up than the factory spring in my model) But the "D" spring was a big help on the clock & for accuracy with that first DA shot (mainly IDPA but now using it in IPSC).

I've tried different recoil springs over the years but I'm still (I think) running the original (>10,000-15,000+ rds), or it may be an OEM replacement. I keep a spare spring just in case. I found going up to a heavier recoil spring caused mine to stovepipe, now that is with MY handloads but they are on the hot side so... however, lotsa variables. YMMV. My pistol is a '92 vintage, I've had it not quite as long but close and have put all its rounds through it. Wore out one guide rod (original two piece) otherwise it's been good.
 
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kage123 said:
Also, if you are doing the d spring, do you have a US or Italy made 92?

Italian ones typically use a roll pin to keep he lanyard loop in place, us ones use a much simpler pin that doesn't require a punch to remove. If you have an Italian one with a roll pin, switch the roll pin out for the american style pin
Click to expand...

I have a US made 92FS. If anyone is interested, this guy put out a great video of a complete 92FS teardown!

 
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