Recomandations 45-70

I'm with f55 : sinkers make good slugs. Big split shot will work, but bell sinkers are better. Another, to use a .50 caliber (.490" is common) ball, as Lutnit suggests. Wheelweight slugs will work, but pure lead is best, as it forms to the rifling much easier. I believe the small, square stick-on wheelweights are pure lead. Your son will know for sure. You can cast a decent slug with these. To get it to expand out beyond .457", just set the bullet upright on a bench or firm block and give it a couple of taps to shorten and expand it a bit. Then slug the bore. Wheelweight slugs will take a bit more force to drive down bore. If you have a good steel cleaning rod, this will work well. Be sure to lightly lube the bore before inserting sinker or ball.
Using Lee molds to begin casting is excellent advice. These are relatively cheap, and do a good job. As a general rule of thumb: Bullets cast from wheelweight lead, normally drop between .458" and .459". When cast from Lyman #2 alloy (1 lb 50/50 plumber's solder to 9 lb wheelweight lead), the bullets will normally average .459"-.460". Its the differences in the alloy mix, compared to pure lead, that produce a larger diameter bullet. The tin in the Lyman #2 alloy produces a harder bullet that won't lead up the bore as easily as wheelweights can, if driven too hard. Generally speaking, wheelweight lead works just fine. I just suggest this as an alternative, if you run into bore leading.
Water hardening the bullets by dropping them right out of the mold into a pail of water, as Lutnit suggests, produces a very hard bullet. These should be lubed and loaded as cast, as he suggests, since the hardening is only surface deep, like case hardened steel. Sizing the bullet disturbs this hardened surface and the bullet becomes soft again. You can run them through a luber-sizer though. For an as cast .459" bullet, for example, use a .460" sizer. This will allow the lube grooves to fill, without damaging the bullet surface. I wouldn't be concerned about water dropped bullets losing their hardness as they travel down the bore. In the few milliseconds the bullet is actually travelling through the bore, it won't be an issue. Worth mentioning, though.
If Lyman molds aren't available locally, you can order online, direct from Lyman. By the way, if you are concerned about damaging your muzzle crown or bore (if inserting slug from the muzzle end, for example), drill out the primer pocket in a 30-30, or similar sized rimmed case.... big enough to accept the cleaning rod, or other rod you will be using to push the slug through. Makes a cheap and effective bore protector. If a concern when slugging from the chamber end.... do the same with a 45-70 case. One ruined case is cheap insurance for an expensive rifle. Besides, you can use it when bore cleaning from the breech end. Hope this helps.
 
I just ordered a mold specifically for the marlin 1895. Accurate moulds catalog number 46-400BG. I wanted a 400gr bullet with a nice wide meplat that would feed perfect in the marlin. Tom, who makes the molds recommended this one to me.
 
Bullet barn bullets work great in my Marlin, Hornady 350 grain jacketed bullets are tough and shoot good too. I cast and have a Ranch Dog 350 grain gas checked mold which is the cat's behind. My advice ids for you to join marlinowners dot com and read that forum, lot's of great info on Marlin 45/70's.
 
Higginson Powders shows them on their website. Hornady Product # 4503 . 350 gr. RNFP. No guarantee they have them either, but maybe worth a try.
 
I was just out shooting some bullets I cast from pure wheel weights out of a lee 405 grain round nose plain base mold today. The powder used was 13 grains of trailboss. Was bouncing a beer can around at 100 yards with my SBL
 
well I smelted down the wheel weights bought the lee 405 hb mold.mixed 9 pound to 1 pound of 50/50 solder
I used lee lubex on them haven't had a chance to shoot them I have to find some h or imr 4198 first.
I must say they turned out awesome ,Ill let you guys know how it go
Thanks agains
 
For the guys using the cast bullets without the crimp groove, just crimp them wherever you want between the front riding ring and grease groove. I've been doing this for years (even with Bullet Barn bullets that ar fairly hard) so I can feed longer ogive bullets meant for SS buffalo guns thru my 1895. I've noticed no degradation in accuracy whatsoever doing this.

Can't be done with jacketed but have found no reason to stop doing it with cast.
 
I shoot Lee hollow base 405 grain bullets over a good load of Varget and my scoped rifle shoots honest 1" groups. Those bullets are straight wheel weights, water dropped. I also cast Lee 340 grain plain base for my father's 45-70, over a max load of 3031, and those are also surprisingly accurate. Also water dropped. He used the 340's to take two big moose and all the shots were complete pass-throughs.
 
Not to slam Bullet Barn, but for anyone having issues trying to get accuracy out of BB hardcast bullets, try some from Jethunter. I've had a fair number of guns that wouldn't tolerate the super hard cast, but loved bullets of medium hardness. And Jethunter can match the hardness to the velocity you expect to drive them. I've had nothing but excellent results with Jethunters bullets, in half a dozen different calibers, including 45-70.
 
I'm with Northman999. If you can latch onto either Varget or IMR 3031, these powders work very well in the 45-70. With the Lyman #2 alloy you cast, 40 grains of either powder should offer good accuracy in your rifle. Looking forward to your range report.
 
tahst awesome I have a couple of pounds of varget ,now do I need another die to bell the case more then I would with regular coppler plated bullets?
I have the rcbs 3 die set ,reading the lymnn book the suggest a different die
Thanks again .ill be getting back to you guys
 
Your RCBS 3-die set should expand the case mouth with no problem. You won't need to bell the case mouth too much. All you need is to flare it out enough so that the base of the bullet will just fit into it ...maybe 1/16" or so. That isn't much more than you would use when seating a plated bullet. If at all. A little trial and error will be required. I'd start with your set up with plated bullets. if the cast bullet goes in okay...then you are set to go. If not, add a tiny bit more flare until its just right.

A lot of cast bullet shooters prefer the Lyman M-die because its two-stage design allows more consistent pressure to be placed on the bullet by the case walls, than with regular dies. Also, to reduce stress on the bullet while it is being seated. Which generally results in better accuracy. The M-die works just as well with jacketed, as with cast bullets.

As mentioned, it is a two-stage die. First, the plug expands the case body down a short distance....approximately one bullet length. But no larger than nominal bullet diameter. In this case: .458". This allows the bullet to slip in easily, but still maintain a firm and consistent grip by the case walls. The second stage puts a gentle taper on the case mouth, which allows an easy start to the bullet as it enters. The case mouth will look like it has very little or no flare at all. Yet, the base of the bullet will fit right into the case mouth with ease. Its a smart design. You may wish to get an M-die later on, once you've shot cast in your rifle for a while. It does take a lot of the hassle out of loading cast bullets. In the meantime, your RCBS dies will do a fine job.
 
Just reread your post. Never fails....always after hitting the send button. I misunderstood. You likely meant jacketed bullets....not copper plated. Yes....you will need to flare the case mouth a bit more than with a jacketed bullet. As mentioned, just enough to allow the bullet's base to sit just inside the case mouth.
 
That C.O.L. should be just fine for your Marlin. Though I doubt you'll have any problems, a good way to check is to load one or two cartridges to that length. Then, run them through the magazine and chamber. Being careful, of course, to do so safely. If they cycle okay...which they should...you are good to go and can load up the rest. Am looking forward to your range report.
 
I think things went rather well seeing that its the first time ,every thing worked with out a hitch.I loaded 10 with 41.5 grains of varget there was no pressure signs .I shot them off the back of my truck box at 100 yrds .I was abot 6" low of a 8x11 pc of white paper ,my grouping wasn't the greatest but I have no doubt that if a cloven hoof mammal or bear was standing with in range it would not be taking another step .I tried to recover some of the bullets but never could find them even thou the trench the left in the dirt was really easy to track .
They cycled way better then either the Winchester or Remington factory ammo.
I see the stickies about lub so im going to try some off them
When I get some more time ill get some pics of the grouping to post up.
Thanks again guys ill keep at it
 
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