- Location
- Tucson, Arizona
Not to complain but I'll take a No4 trigger pull over the LOOOOONG first stage of a K31
I still like my K31's
I still like my K31's
Recommendations for a trigger for my 303
- Thread starter peter2772000
- Start date
fat tony
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
peter2772000
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec, Canada
You're absolutely right, I never had. 
Turns out that the creep in question was indeed the 1st stage. Had it in my garage this afternoon, all gung-ho on "fixing" the trigger. I remembered the bit about the two stage trigger and checked it out. Bingo, you were all right on the money.
Trigger pull is between 6.5 - 7 lbs on the second stage. With or without the forend on the rifle. I find it about 2 lbs too high, but now that I know there's no creep, I can live with it.
The rifle is a Mark III, in case anyone's wondering. Bore is pitted, so I'm guessing corrosive ammo?
Turns out that the creep in question was indeed the 1st stage. Had it in my garage this afternoon, all gung-ho on "fixing" the trigger. I remembered the bit about the two stage trigger and checked it out. Bingo, you were all right on the money.
Trigger pull is between 6.5 - 7 lbs on the second stage. With or without the forend on the rifle. I find it about 2 lbs too high, but now that I know there's no creep, I can live with it.
The rifle is a Mark III, in case anyone's wondering. Bore is pitted, so I'm guessing corrosive ammo?
Last edited:
peter2772000
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Question.
Seeing as the crush area of the foerend stock can affect the trigger (and from what I understood, more crush means suckier trigger), would it not be theoretically possible to ameliorate the trigger by shimming the front of the trigger guard?
Seeing as the crush area of the foerend stock can affect the trigger (and from what I understood, more crush means suckier trigger), would it not be theoretically possible to ameliorate the trigger by shimming the front of the trigger guard?
The size of the bushing through which the king screw goes is important. The front of the trigger guard should rest solid on the bushing, not on the wood. Assemble the rifle without the forend and see how the whole thing works. Adjusting the trigger pull is done by modifying the two bumps on the trigger. But most of the time, I found that bad trigger pulls on No1Mk3's were due to badly fitted forends.
Lou
Lou
- Location
- WMU248 near Edmonton
nice to see that in print (digital) I have around here somewhere a pile of enfield manuals.
I've done a lot of trigger work on enfields using oil stones to polish up the bearing surfaces. Not a big deal really just go slow a little metal removal can make a big change in trigger pull. And putting metal back on is a problem.
I've done a lot of trigger work on enfields using oil stones to polish up the bearing surfaces. Not a big deal really just go slow a little metal removal can make a big change in trigger pull. And putting metal back on is a problem.
