I am starting to refinish my stock on my mauser 98 sporter and going to use raw linseed oil for a stain, some fellas say to use tung oil but was told that you have to oil it every few months, that won't happen with me. What would a person use to seal it after I'm done with the stain?
refinish a stock????
- Thread starter 6.5x55swm
- Start date
- Location
- Steel Town and The Peg
Tung or linseed. And no you don't have to oil it every few months. Basically, apply 1 thin coat per year. All of 5 minute job! Seal it with a treated Hoppe's cloth or your favourite wax or just leave it alone.
I've had far better results with Tung oil, but whatever floats your boat.
Northman999
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Yukon
I redid my last stock with a product that is a blend of penetrating oil and varnish. I did five nice coats with wet sanding and it turned out great. Won't need any additional coats unless it gets a fair amount of wear.
Nothing beats linsed oil for bringing out the pattern in walnut.
However, linseed oil doesn't stain. If the wood is too light to suit you, it should be stained with a walnut stain, then oiled.
I prefer raw linseed oil, to the boiled variety. Linseed oil is slow drying, but the raw is faster drying than is boiled.
Tung oil is pretty good, but not the quality that linseed is.
I recently did a test between tung oil and Casey's Tru Oil. In my opinion the Casey product won easily. The finished product just looked better.
However, linseed oil doesn't stain. If the wood is too light to suit you, it should be stained with a walnut stain, then oiled.
I prefer raw linseed oil, to the boiled variety. Linseed oil is slow drying, but the raw is faster drying than is boiled.
Tung oil is pretty good, but not the quality that linseed is.
I recently did a test between tung oil and Casey's Tru Oil. In my opinion the Casey product won easily. The finished product just looked better.
bearkilr
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nowhere, ......just past the middle
I've had best results with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil.
Tung Oil gave me a wicked rash, I hear thats not entirely unusual, lots are allergic to it or have a reaction of sorts.
And no, I don't have nut allergies.
Tung Oil gave me a wicked rash, I hear thats not entirely unusual, lots are allergic to it or have a reaction of sorts.
And no, I don't have nut allergies.
I love those mauser actions.... can I get a pic of yours?.....
I have a Remington 799 .223 which is a zastava mini mauser action in a boyd's laminate stock .... Rem also made the 798 which is your rifles action in a boyd's....
My suggestion for refinishing is to look online and find what you like... there are piles of "recipes" available online with results pictures.....
Major Sights
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Westlock, AB
I just finished re-finishing a stock on my dads old decrepit Cooey Ranger. The thing was in a non-firing condition seized shut and rusted to hell (minus the bore for some reason...) and the stock was covered in what seemed like engine grease, mud, and just plain ugly. I chose the tung oil method, and love it.
Here's what it looked like originally.
Here it is after I cleaned the rust and grime and sanded the stock down.
And this is 1 light coat of cherry 325 stain and 10 coats of tung oil.
The original thread going on over on the rimfire thread.
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=724998
Here's what it looked like originally.
Here it is after I cleaned the rust and grime and sanded the stock down.
And this is 1 light coat of cherry 325 stain and 10 coats of tung oil.
The original thread going on over on the rimfire thread.
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=724998
Linseed oil is not a stain, it does however have colour and will darken the wood marginally.
If the stock needs to be stained due to light patches in the walnut use a water based walnut stain.
Linseed will enhance the wood grain slightly better than Tung oil as Tung gives a bit of a duller sheen. In both cases Iam refering to raw linseed and pure tung oil. Pure tung oil is harder to find and is usually not the suff you see at the local hardware store as it contains dryers.
Pure tung oil you can actually consume and is used alot on salid bowls. Lee Valley Tools carries it. I have bought it there for years.
Tung oil has greater moisture resistance properties than Linseed. Notice I say moisture "resistance" neither of them will water proof the wood for a variety of reasons. Tung oil also goes by the name China oil as those folks used to use it on the hulls of there ships.
The base for most oil paints is either linseed or tung oil.
If the gun is used every fall for a week or so, give the stock a light coat of whatever oil you end up choosing. Afew drops on your finger at a time and rub it in well.
I have used pure Tung oil on my stocks for 30 years with good results. Another product I have used alot with superb results is "Linspeed" Oil. A commercial linseed oil based gun stock finish product. At this time you will have to google the name and order it in from the states. Not and issue, and it is not expensive.
If the stock needs to be stained due to light patches in the walnut use a water based walnut stain.
Linseed will enhance the wood grain slightly better than Tung oil as Tung gives a bit of a duller sheen. In both cases Iam refering to raw linseed and pure tung oil. Pure tung oil is harder to find and is usually not the suff you see at the local hardware store as it contains dryers.
Pure tung oil you can actually consume and is used alot on salid bowls. Lee Valley Tools carries it. I have bought it there for years.
Tung oil has greater moisture resistance properties than Linseed. Notice I say moisture "resistance" neither of them will water proof the wood for a variety of reasons. Tung oil also goes by the name China oil as those folks used to use it on the hulls of there ships.
The base for most oil paints is either linseed or tung oil.
If the gun is used every fall for a week or so, give the stock a light coat of whatever oil you end up choosing. Afew drops on your finger at a time and rub it in well.
I have used pure Tung oil on my stocks for 30 years with good results. Another product I have used alot with superb results is "Linspeed" Oil. A commercial linseed oil based gun stock finish product. At this time you will have to google the name and order it in from the states. Not and issue, and it is not expensive.
mine is a santa barbra model 1000, i think it is almost the same as a parker hale 1200. it was my grandfathers rifle he bought from the oldtimer that tought me how to reload. they are childhood friends. the rifle was bought as a kit, stock was very rough and no bluing, 99$ in 1974, not bad. my grandfather bought it in 1976 and was given to a cuz in 1996 and did a horrible job on the stock. i just had it hot blued, leupold bases & rings are on the way, bushnell elite 4200 for $250R(used) just need to finish the stock, less than a 100 rounds down the pipe, 2 inch groups at 250yds, i had to restore it, i have given up trying to put pics up on this site
Major Sights
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Westlock, AB
Sure. If you cover the shipping to and from and tung oil, I'll do it. (not even joking, I have a month off work and have almost finished all my own projects)
I plan on trying this on my next stock finish..... I hear many good things about it
Mrgoat, you and I are sure singing from the same hymn book!
I too, have so often sung the praises of Linspeed. I used up all I had then just used a substitue, instead of bothering to order more.
And yes, I say substitute, because in my opinion all other finishes for stocks are just a substitute for Linspeed.
I too, have so often sung the praises of Linspeed. I used up all I had then just used a substitue, instead of bothering to order more.
And yes, I say substitute, because in my opinion all other finishes for stocks are just a substitute for Linspeed.
