Refinishing an SVT40?

762Russian

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Hello folks.

I'm curious to know if anyone has done any work on an SVT40 stock, or would happen to know what product to use to get that shine in the wood that the Ruskies did. My SVT has some bare areas and scratches that I'd like to clean up to give her a nice smooth finish like she did when she got out of the Izzy factory.

Also curious to know if anyone has ever had any problems pulling the barrel and reciever out of the stock before. Having some issues with the lock screw, I can't seem to turn it at all. Anyone else have that issue before, and if so, how does one go about solving the issue? I know my baby has some cosmoline hiding in there and I'd rather like to get it out.

Thanks very much for any help you can offer.

762Russian
 
gun finish

hi hope you get to read this ....i used a polyurthane or something closley spelled to that ... put 2 coats of satin and then all the coats of clear you can stand .... after each coat use a paper grocery store sack to polish the finish ... a man at the lumber yard told me to try it ... very glad i did the paper sack works miricles on the finish ... also all i done was to remove the outer layer of the old finish leaving the marks and stampings intact .... good luck Mike :rockOn:
 
I don't know what the finish is like on the SVT, but if it's anything like a Mosin, some garnet de-waxed shellac from shellac.net should do the trick.

I've learned a way of dealing with tricky screws which comes on handy when dealing with milsurp parts that have been screwed together for 40 or 100 years.

1. Apply CLP, WD-40, or any other penetrating lube that will seep into gaps in the metal to the effected area, making sure not to get any on the wood finish. Let it sit an hour or so.

2. I have a bit screw driver with a big, fat handle. The big handle comes in handy for leverage and lets me get a better grip on it. Make sure you size the bit to the screw appropriately, as you don't want to the screwdriver to slip or strip the screw.

3. Brace the rifle in a way that lets you exert downward force with your body weight in a steady manner. Use the right amount of force, not too much. The more weight balanced on top, the less likely the screw driver will slip out.

4. The most important step: *Tighten* the screw until it breaks the thread. You don't have to turn it much. Then back out the screw, bit by bit, go slowly so you don't strip the screw.

Voila, the scew is free.

I've used this countless times on various screws on rifles, bikes, and cars and it works like a charm.
 
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I have had a real 'rassling match with my SVT to separate the trigger group from the receiver. Until I discovered the problem was the sleeve on the rear of the receiver needs to be pushed in at least 1/3" to free the latch. More than you think.

The stock was apparently shellacked. Sand lightly to get off the flakey edges, and reapply.
 
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