Refinishing SKS stock

kc1337

kc1337

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So guys, I am currently refinishing my SKS stock and have a couple of questions.

1) When I do sanding, do I sand the "channel" where the action/barrel sits as well or only the exterior surface?

2)The area under the buttplate is all dark unlike the rest of the wood, is that the way it is or is it from the cosmoline being soaked in?

3)When staining/sealing, do I stain and sealn the "channel"/buttplate area of the stock as well?

I'll provide pictures shortly after.
 
The channel and butt is usually soaked in oil and/or cosmoline that will never come out. Your new finish will not adhere to it ever.

If you want to clean it, use mineral spirits (Varsol) or turpentine and a stiff toothbrush. I have also used a small brass brush normally used for cleaning welding tips. Check your local hardware or Can Tire.

Be careful sanding the stock. Use a sanding block to prevent rounding over the sharper edges. I usually use a scraper to remove the old finish.

Post pics when you are done!

ct
 
So I think I goofed a bit, was staining with cheesecloth and parts of it kept getting caught on the wooden fibers when I am running it against the grain.
 
To do the least damage to the wood use Circa 1850 or similar gel stripper. brush it on and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Let the stripper do the work! Wear gloves! Wipe off with 0000 steel wool. Repeat until satisfied.Probably 2 or 3 times. The 0000 steel wool (very fine) will do any sanding you may require and leave the wood quite smooth and can be bought cheap at most hardware stores. This is how I refinish many antiques. Once you're done stripping, wipe it all down with plain cold water & leave the wood for 24 hours to dry. This will allow the little hairs/fibers of the wood etc to stand up & stiffen. After 24 hours rub all surfaces down with the 0000 steel wool again or lightly with VERY fine sandpaper to remove the hairs/fibers. Finally wipe down with a tack cloth to remove any dust etc and the finishing should go well. Test any stains on an area that won't show (barrel channel, magazine well, trigger well) to confirm it's the colour you want and then use a varnish or oil as your tastes dictate. No finish will take where there was cosmoline since it's basically grease. Baking it out has been quite successful for many people. If the cosmoline has penetrated the wood where you plan to refinish then the resulting stain etc may be blotchy.
Hope that helps!:D
 
Satain said:
boltonscouter too bad you didn't live in B.C. cuase I would have offered you a painting job.
;)
Click to expand...

I once had a summer student job painting houses but that was just for 6 weeks. I've actually taken off allot more paint than I've put on stuff. I've refinished allot of wood and find it therapeutic (kinda like shooting:D). It's nice to take some old hurting painted neglected piece and return it to it's former glory. Nice to be able to do something that you can actually see the results of your efforts.
Job in BC eh?? Wow if it paid enough I'd love to get out of the GTA! I have a buddy in Nanaimo and I'm SOOOO jealous!
 
Redonne many old russian rifles, the best way is to scrape with a very sharp Rapala knife all the existing shellac it comme out very easy, after get a lot of rags and over an electric stove open a couples of elements put some gloves and turn the stock over the heat, you will see all the cosmoline bubbling out wipe often do it until no more come out, let it dry a couples of days, take a 400 sanding block and litely sand, Rona sell a shellac oil base in black cherry around 20.00 for a little quart , apply with a sponge wiping out the exces, let dry 24 hours, sand very softly with 600 sand paper and apply another coat of shellac and so on, 2 or 3 coats do what i consider being the nearest of the original finish, they come out beautiful... Good work ahead. JP
 
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