Refinishing some rifle stocks - a couple if questions?

[adanacdjm]

So I decided I'd strip my Winchester Model 94 30/30 and a Ruger 10/22
here is a pic of the stocks stripped and steamed ready for the stain -
the ruger-

The 30/30 striped stock

I decided to use a minwax pre-stain wood conditioner then used minwax gunstock stain on the Ruger for all my stain coats. For the 30/30 I used the prestain conditioner and then two coats minwax special walnut and the third stain cost was minwax dark walnut. They came out looking good and in these pics they have been drying for about 12 hrs. Temp here is cooler so they are still tacky to the touch. I put them out in the sun. After each coat of stain I did wipe the excess off about 10 minutes after applying.
Here are the sticks at present

And and another couple of them out in the sun drying-

Once they dry I'm planning on doing a light sanding and the thinking if finishing the 30/30 with Tung oil and the Ruger with Tru-Oil.
now the questions -
on the 30/30 I was going to apply a 50/50 tung oil/pure turpentine for the first 2 coats to allow it to soak in - then properly 3-5 more coats of straight tung oil then finish it off with a minwax paste finishing wax.
Thoughts, concerns, comments, criticisms?

on the Ruger was going straight to 100% Tru-Oil and then possibly do the minwax finishing paste? Not sure on that last step yet.
i plan to do a wet sanding using the tung oil and Tru oil for the first few applications then the final applications just my fingers rubbing it in.
again looking for comments , input, and alternatives.
thanks in advance,
Dave

 

[cody c]

Looks good, personally I would have just used straight tru oil for about 6+ coats.

 

[hoytcanon]

Just Tru-Oil... at least eight coats... I like ten... sand lightly between coats with 0000 steel wool and then after final coat sand with 0000 steel wool until you get to the "shininess" that you want... I like to take it back to a satin finish.

 

[adanacdjm]

Part of this undertaking is to try some different processes to find the one that suits my personal tastes. I'm doing a few other milsurps with BLO on a Lee Enfield No 4 and trying to replicate the Mosin Nagant dipped in red shellac by using minwax red mahogany stain and a spar urethane coat to finish. I'll post up pics as I get further along.

 

[kamlooky]

Randy Boyd has a video on how he recommends using and applying Tru Oil.
He makes it look awfully easy.
Go have a look, might be worth the time invested.

 

[hometownhero]

I have done lots in tung oil and always took 15 or more coats to get the look I want. I just did my cz 455fs in tru oil and armour all tire shine mix and worked really well.

 

[vviking]

Once they dry I'm planning on doing a light sanding

I wouldn't sand at all until you get some hardened finish built up, and even then, be carefull not to cut through the colour on edges. My sharp edges only ever get a light steel-wooling(0000).

apply a 50/50 tung oil/pure turpentine for the first 2 coats to allow it to soak in

The tung is not going to penetrate far with the wood already sealed with stain. Turps solvent thinned tung may well remove some of that stain and give a splotchy result.

Your work looks very good so far .. the '94 especially.

 

[adanacdjm]

First coat of Tru-Oil on Ruger and. 1st coat of Tung oil on 30/30 butt stock. Now I wait...

 

[burnsy56]

I recently refinished a full stock CZ 550 using the method described here:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331108

Fast drying times, no thick/blotchy areas with using TruOil alone and very little sanding/buffing req'd between coats.


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If not please remove.

Readers, please Google: Woodstocks Amazin' Stock Finish

 

[hometownhero]

I recently refinished a full stock CZ 550 using the method described here:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331108

Fast drying times, no thick/blotchy areas with using TruOil alone and very little sanding/buffing req'd between coats.


*****Moderators I'm uncertain if I am allowed to supply this link to another forum******
If not please remove.

Readers, please Google: Woodstocks Amazin' Stock Finish

Yup thats what I did as well. Worked pretty good.

 

[adanacdjm]

So I read the last few posts about armour all and I did apply it before putting on the 3rd coat of Tru-oil. It looks pretty good . I will continue to use the armour all for my remaining coats if Tru- oil.
thank
Dave

 

[mrgoat]

I think your methods and thought process thus far are right on track and your results and workmanship look very good. The only thing yourself and no one else has mentioned is filling the pores of the wood as walnut is open grained and the pores of the wood should be filled to help reduce dirt a moisture getting into the wood. Filler can be made or bought but another way is to fill them with the finish your using buy applying two coats and then taking it off with #0000 steel wool. This is done until the pores are completely filled and flush with the surface. Then you apply your final coats.

 

[adanacdjm]

I think your methods and thought process thus far are right on track and your results and workmanship look very good. The only thing yourself and no one else has mentioned is filling the pores of the wood as walnut is open grained and the pores of the wood should be filled to help reduce dirt a moisture getting into the wood. Filler can be made or bought but another way is to fill them with the finish your using buy applying two coats and then taking it off with #0000 steel wool. This is done until the pores are completely filled and flush with the surface. Then you apply your final coats.

although I've applied 3 coats using 0000 steel wool can I now do a double application as you've suggested and then do the last 4-5 coats as intended rubbing in with my fingers?

 

[adanacdjm]

Not sure if it would make a difference in regards to the pores but prior to applying the 4 coats of stain I did use a Minwax pre-stain conditioner. It was to be applied to the bare wood surface between 15 minutes to 2 hours prior to applying the stain.
As it stands now I'm going to start the next coat but as you've suggested by applying two coats and then taking it off with the 0000 steel wool. Is there a set time to apply the second coat - are you letting it dry between or are you applying it over the still wet first coat?
Thanks
Dave

 

[SHELL SHUCKER]

I used to use Minwax stain, but now much prefer Varathane gel stain. It goes on easy and dries a lot quicker.
You definitely want to let each coat of product dry between coats & before de-whiskering with 4-O steel wool.
Your Ruger stock has the Mosin colour fer sure.....me like.

 

[mrgoat]

The stain conditioner you applied allows the wood to take the stain more evenly to give a consistent colour without blotching. It has nothing to do with filling the pores. You know when the pores are completely filled when you can drag your finger nail across the surface of the wood and it feels like your dragging it across a piece of glass. I other wards perfectly smooth, you will not feel the cavities of the pores with your finger nail. Between coats let dry 12 hrs. after each second coat is dry take it down to the wood with #0000. You can do it after each coat if you like as it all amounts to the same thing.
I might add here the above applies to finish oils that contain dryers, such as Tru Oil or Lin-speed oil or polymerized Tung oil. If you are using raw Tung oil the drying times are significantly longer to the point to get a decent pore fill with raw tung oil takes for ever and that's when you would use a pore filler first. I sand the stock with 220 grit leaving the sanding dust on the wood. Apply the finish by dipping your finger in it and spreading it around. You can also collect fine sanding dust, mix it with oil/finish and use that as well. The oil/finish should contain a good amount of dryers to harden up after filling the pores.

 

[adanacdjm]

here they are with a few coats applied...

So here is my Ruger stock after about 6 coats of Tru-oil

and the 30/30 stock with 5 coats or tung oil

 

[bjmurata]

Looking great,nice work there!!

 

[adanacdjm]

Finished Ruger 10/22

Well I've finished my Ruger and it's back together. I certainly appreciated the wealth of comments. I'm pleased but the next one will be better. I need to work on my technique around the sharp edges but overall I think it's an improvement of the original out the box stain. Here are some pics-
Original out of the box look -

refinished look -

Here is a fail on a sharp edge - will approach this differently - I was a little heavy on sanding the edge

 

[adanacdjm]

The 30/30 has a few coats of tung oil left then should I use a finishing wax on it or what's the best approach?
as always thanks for the guidance.
Kind regards,
Dave