rehardening my trigger and sear?....

eltorro

eltorro

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While working on two of my triggers I got a little carried away and I believe I "polished" a little too much for that thin hardened surface to still be there.
Is there a way to reharden the contact surfaces?
 
Yes, using a special powder and heating the meteal to the correct tempture.

Proberly best to be done under expert supervision. I have only done it once.
 
trigger jobs

You don't mention what type of gun you have. On SniperCountry.com in the "How To" section are some good articles on how to adjust savage and remington triggers. Savage triggers are made of sintered metal which is very soft underneath and very hard on the surface. Stoning away or polishing off the hardened surface means buying a new trigger. There is also some good information on testing your rifle after adjusting the trigger to ensure it is still safe.

270 totheend
 
I kept the angle that would ensure a positive engagement on the sear, so I didn't get a negative trigger.
I have spare parts (triggers and sears) for all the rifles that I worked on, but putiing them back would get me to the same problem. The rifles I polished the trigger on are M14, M98 and M38.
 
Offhand, I do not know if the rear & trigger pieces on these different rifles are mild steel with a case hardened surface, or hardened and tempered higher carbon steel. I doubt that M-14 parts are casehardened. Re-heat treating these parts could be problematic; unless the composition of the steel is known, trying to reharden could create more problems. A parts failure could result in an unintended discharge. I would suggest replacing the parts.
 
tiriaq said:
Offhand, I do not know if the rear & trigger pieces on these different rifles are mild steel with a case hardened surface, or hardened and tempered higher carbon steel. I doubt that M-14 parts are casehardened. Re-heat treating these parts could be problematic; unless the composition of the steel is known, trying to reharden could create more problems. A parts failure could result in an unintended discharge. I would suggest replacing the parts.
Click to expand...


I have to agree here with tiriaq, trying to re-case parts by hand in an unknown alloy is not the way to go, you could inadvertently thru harden or over harden the part and have the engagement surface chip/flake off, replace the parts..... I know a couple tricks to put a hard case on at home, but nothing I'd use on anything other then a cheap improvised knife or scraping tool......
 
I agree with the above, if you don't know the composition of the steel your flying blind/ It could be low carbon case hardened or a better grade spot induction hardened or been salt hardened/tempered. Done wrong you could create stress lines that could cause the sear to part company from the main body causing the gun to fire. I'ce seen this where hammer guns have been reworked
 
Thank you for all the info, gentlemen!
I'll use the parts as they are, checking on them once in a while....and when I feel or see wear on contact surfaces, I'll replace them.

There are really a lot of videos and advices on how to tune a trigger, and this matter has not occured to me at the time I've done the polishing.

Thanks again,
Paul
 
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