Reindexing the M14 barrels - STEP 1

Lazerus2000

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With the high percentage of the new batch of BELL/Polytech 2009 M14 rifles having barrels that are INDEXED INCORRECTLY, there seems to be increased interest in M14 barrel reindexing, removal, and replacement.

This is the BIG job for an M14 do-it-yourselfer, and the point that separates the men from the boys … usually with a 6’ steel cheateer handle on the wrench.

Almost any BUBBA can remove an M14 barrel from the receiver using commonly available farm implements, and judging by some of the M14 receivers and barrels I've seen,
with Record 6" vice jaw "checkering" on the receivers,
and whopping big PIPE WRENCH jaw marks on the barrels,

Bubba has been very busy working on M14s.

The trick is to get things separated,
and properly torqued back in place,
and / or
reindexed precisely,
without leaving any HORRIBLE marks as a sign of your membership in the guild of BUBBAS.

Step 1: The Chinese have cleverly installed a top secret " barrel falling off on its own" safety device, otherwise known as "that @#$%^%^^& screw ". This secret screw is hidden away nicely under the op rod, on the right side of the receiver. Removing some of these screws sometimes becomes an exercise in futility, and a visit to the dark side.

These screws are sometimes MASSIVELY over torqued in place by XUXXU [ Bubba’s Chinese cousin ], and these screws have a tiny, short, thin, shallow slot. Screw driver tips can break off, and/or, that tiny/short/thin/shallow slot can quickly get buggered up beyond recognition. So then we bring out the drill bit, and try to drill out the screw. Unfortunately, sometimes XUXXU has slept through the alarm that tells him to turn off the heat treatment on those screws, and some of those screws are HARD!!!!
REALLY HARD!!!!
Hard enough that a drill bit just skips off and gouges up the receiver.

So into the drill press or milling machine, and out comes a CARBIDE end mill, to make a nice neat hole where the screw used to be.

Many think that that @#$%^&*( screw is useless, and can be thrown away, but just possibly, those clever little Chinese grade 8 shop students that assemble the M14 rifles, may be smarter than you think. Maybe they put that screw there for a very good reason. Maybe they knew that some of the Chinese barrels were VERRRRrrrrrry soft steel, and that with the slight undercut on the barrel shoulder, that allows the barrels to be turned precisely into correct indexing [ HA! HA! ] without precision clearances between barrel shoulder and receiver, that some times that tiny little screw is all that keeps the barrel from turning out.

BTDT
I have personally seen THREE Chinese M14 rifles where the barrels had shot loose. As in loose to the point that one shooter kept hand turning the barrel back into place after every few shots.
TRUE!!

SO,
Step one can be easy, or it can be not so easy,
But it is still the first step in barrel indexing.

Of course,
There are those who skip step one.
Maybe they didn’t know about the Chinese
“secret barrel retention safety device”.

Or maybe they got one of the special @#$$%^%^%^ screws, and gave up trying to get it out.

These people [ BUB and BA ] just resort to a bigger vice, a longer wrench handle, or a bigger hammer to beat on the wrench handle, or all of the above. AND THEY TORQUE THAT BARREL RIGHT OUT WITHOUT REMOVING THE SCREW.

Unbelievably,
on the M14 receivers I’ve seen that have been subjected to this ultimate indignity, none of the receivers have been damaged [ beyond Bubba leaving his cosmetic exterior surface trademark ] On the other hand, the barrel threads can and sometimes do get severely reamed by that hardened screw passing by. This may or may not ruin the barrel to the point where it should not be reused.

So,
This is step 1 of barrel reindexing … more to follow later … plus pictures.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

NOTE: There are two ways to re & re an M14 barrel from a receiver.

One way is to firmly clamp the receiver in place, and use a barrel wrench to rotate the barrel.

The other way is to firmly clamp the barrel in place, and use a receiver wrench to rotate the receiver.

Both methods have their pros and cons, and will depend on what tools you have to do the clamping and wrenching.

After several years, and hundreds of barrel jobs on M14 rifles, I have come up with a set of tools that will do both jobs professionally. These tools hold the M14 parts firmly and securely, and have been proven over many jobs, to be able to remove any M14 barrel … even if you forgot step one.

These combination barrel blocks / receiver wrench or barrel wrench / receiver blocks can be reversed to be used for both jobs. One set can be used with a bench vise or bench mounted press, or two sets can be combined for both jobs. The blocks are machined from steel to fit perfectly all M14 regular contour barrels, USGI, Chinese, or American clones. Blocks can be firmly bolted to a solid work bench. Or instead, if you prefer to mount the receiver or barrel solidly in a vice, the blocks can used as a portable barrel or receiver wrench simply by adding a steel tube extension handle.

Designed to use replaceable/disposable CUSTOM FIT thin Aluminum pads [ strips cut from Beer cans ] to avoid marking your barrel.

These steel blocks have exceptional holding ability, and the necessary clamping power to break loose the tightest M14 barrels. We have tested these blocks on hundreds of M14 barrel re-indexing, removal, and replacement jobs, and with a 6’ cheater bar as a handle, they will literally unscrew a Chinese M14 barrel without removing that hidden, horrible barrel side locking screw. NOT that you would want to do this on a regular basis, but if you absolutely can’t get that side screw out, you can power out the barrel … and probably chew up the barrel threads on the way out.

I will be dropping by my favorite machinest shop to get a couple of extra sets of these M14 barrel/receiver tools made up.

Is there any one else who would be willing to buy a set of these?

Cost will be determined by volume so no price yet, but probably under $ 100.
[;{)
TTFN
LAZ 1
 
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Hey Lazerus2000 isn't there any one out there that could re-index your barrel properly. So "BUBBA"(meaning me) dosn't have to f'-up his rifle?
 
YES,
these barrel/receiver tools should work for both M14s and Garands.

The Garand and the M14 are close relatives, with the M14 and Garand receivers being fundamentally identical. But of course, the Garand receiver is longer, to accept the longer .30-06 cartridge.

Where the receiver blocks meet the receiver is identical for both, so there should be no issues here.

The Garand and the M14 can actually swap barrels, and the physical contour at the back of the barrels is again very similar, with the angled and half round contouring extending a bit further forward on the Garand, again to match the longer Garand Chamber.

We could assume the barrel blocks will work perfectly as well,
BUT,
I will double check the measuremnets on a few Garand barrels to make sure.
[;{)
LAZ 1
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
YES,
these barrel/receiver tools should work for both M14s and Garands.

The Garand and the M14 are close relatives, with the M14 and Garand receivers being fundamentally identical. But of course, the Garand receiver is longer, to accept the longer .30-06 cartridge.

Where the receiver blocks meet the receiver is identical for both, so there should be no issues here.

The Garand and the M14 can actually swap barrels, and the physical contour at the back of the barrels is again very similar, with the angled and half round contouring extending a bit further forward on the Garand, again to match the longer Garand Chamber.

We could assume the barrel blocks will work perfectly as well,
BUT,
I will double check the measuremnets on a few Garand barrels to make sure.
[;{)
LAZ 1
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Holy Smoke's!
Are you telling me that if I was to take out my 308 m14 barrel I could slap in a m1 grand barrel and change the bolt to the grand bolt, thus allowing me to shoot 30-06 from an m14 platform?
That would be nutz!
 
Why do I waste my time posting technical information in threads and writing the stickies?

2009 polytech owners should read the @#$#$%$% stickies about my M14 inspection FAQs , and the MANY threads that Hungry and I keep posting, and Hungry's M14 model inspection / evaluations.

ARRRRRrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhhh!
Use the search function, read the stickies.

It just don't get no better than that,
[l;{(
LAZ 1
 
I was to take out my 308 m14 barrel I could slap in a m1 grand barrel and change the bolt to the grand bolt, thus allowing me to shoot 30-06 from an m14 platform?
That would be nutz!


yes,
that would indeed be nuts.

The M14 bolt and receiver are considerably shorter than the Garand bolt and receiver, so a Garand bolt and the .30-06 cartridge, will NOT fit in an M14 receiver without cutting, adding in an extra section of metal, and lengthening the M14 receiver ...
and that would well and truly be insane,
because
an M14 receiver and bolt are basically a shortened Garand receiver and bolt.

HOWEVER,
the M14 barrel will turn right in to a Garand receiver,
AND
the Garand reciever can be cut and welded and shortened to M14 length.

Both types of "FrankenGarands" do exist,
some use the Beretta B 59 magazine,
or some even use the M14 magazine,
or most common, stick with the Garand 8 round enbloc clip, and the Garand lifter mechanism instead of any removeable box mag.

If you want a .30-06 M14, you already have one available ..
it is called the GARAND.

If you want a .30-06 M14 length receiver all ready set up for a box magazine, you already that available too ...
it is called the Beretta BM 59.

If you REALLY want a .30-06 M14, you could buy a Beretta BM 59 [ prohibs here in Canada ] and install a .30-06 Garand barrel.
OR,
a little less insane,
modify a Garand receiver to take BM 59 mags ... it will be NUTS!!! ... way beyond what makes rational sense ...
BUT,
YOU WON'T BE THE FIRST ONE TO DO IT.
[;{)
LAZ 1
 
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M14Tools003.jpg


OK, back to
STEP ONE: removing that $$&&***$#@#%^% barrel safety retention screw.

The picture above shows some of the tools that could be used to accomplish this task ...
if you don't get lucky and have that screw almost fall out on it's own [ and some do].

At the middle, from the bottom up, we have various types of screwdrivers, with some different bit sets to the left. The common screw driver shown has the blade tip twisted about 20 degrees each way ... it was too soft for one of those @$$%%^% screws.

Some of the interchangeable bit sets, with solid or racheting handles, are shown in the middle, above that poor pathetic small Sears Craftsman life time guaranteed screw driver, that met it's match on a cheap Chinese screw. Most of these have well tempered, and well cut blades, but even then, one of the smaller , properly sized flat bits, broke off at the last M14 seminar when it met another of those @#$%& Chinese VERRRRrrrrrrry hard screws.

There are those who think a hard screw is good to find ... but not here.

Just above the standard Craftsman 1/4" socket wrench, we have two HIGH POWERED screw extraction devices. One is a smaller IMPACT DRIVER, that takes standard 1/4 hex bits, and the other is a 1/2" drive MOTORCYCLE MECHANIC's impact driver, that takes 1/2" sockets. 3/8" bits and sockets, and which can be adapted to take standard interchangeable 1/4" bits.

An impact driver is basically a ratcheting screwdriver, that you hit with a hammer, and the impact is transformed into a twisting rotary action, with the hammer blow really setting the bit in place at that critical moment of impact.

These USUALLY work … but at the last seminar we impacted and rotated until we broke the screwdriver bit off in the @#$$%%^%^% screw slot … and that screw did NOT budge.

Remember, any impact tool should be used with a barrel or receiver that is SOLIDLY immobilized in a vice, blocks or wahatever. Unless the part to be untwisted is solidly held, the impact driver will not work to maximium efficiency, as the impacts move the object back instead of being properly turned into rotation..

Just for smiles and chuckles, on the right of the picture are two HEAVY DUTY electric impact tools … the smaller one takes the usual interchangeable 1/4” bits, and the larger one takes ½” drive. I don’t actually use these for Gunsmiting … but there is a streak of BUBBA in my veins, and sooner or later I probably WILL abuse some poor M14 with these tools.

Maybe if I put wheels on an M14,
then it wouldn’t be such a Bad Bubba thing to do,
using a car mechanic’s heavy duty tools on a gun?
Eh what?

So,
the next chapter in the ongoing saga of DO IT YOURSELF indexing your M14 barrel will follow sooner or later.

Or maybe I've already convinced you to give a PRO gunsmiter the $$$ instead??
[;{)
LAZ 1
 
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Because the apprentice entrusted with installing the %##!?><*& lockscrew did not want it to work loose and fall out, thereby dishonouring him before his ancestors, he may have staked the edges of the hole into the screw's slot. On both sides. Even a screw that could otherwise be easily turned might be mechanically locked in place. If you carefully grind up a tiny square ended chisel the width of the slot in the %##!?><*& screw, you may be able to tap the displaced steel back into place, thereby allowing the screw to be turned. Of course, the threads will not be continuous in the area of the staking.
Dealing with the %##!?><*& screw can sometimes be the most aggravating part of an indexing or rebarrelling job.
But sometimes the screw does actually turn out, just the way it should.
 
I enjoy how the OP is half advertisement.

I know this will make me sound WAY too CGN, but you sound like a 'liberal', scare words like 'high percentage' and 'incorrectly', and belittling those who don't do it 'right' (i.e. don't buy your product).

But, on the other hand, it's nice to see more stuff to buy for M14's.
 
Less than a hundred bucks for a proper set of tools that will allow the job to be done without damage is a real bargoon.
It is sad to see the botched jobs done by folks who couldn't be bothered using decent tools.
Of course there is absolutely no reason that a person couldn't make their own tooling.
 
DASQ,
If you don't want my M14 knowledge,
then feel free to ignore all my posts,
and the absolutely FREE information I provide therein.
There is a function in CGN that will allow you to do just that.

I am basically providing FREE information ....
which on the internet may admittedly often be worth a LOT LESS than you paid for it.

I will also be providing pictures and detailed drawings of the tools in this thread, to anyone who wants to make their own set of M14 blocks ...
once me and my machinest finalise the design,
to optimise it for home workshop DIY tools.

Again, I am doing this FOR ABSOLUTELY FREE,

My machinest is NOT real happey about committing to keeping the cost of these blocks below $ 100, even if I up the volume and pre-order 10,
so I am trying to keep the price down by seeing if there are enough sales to justify a first run.
If you think I will make any real money off these M14 tools,
then you live in LA LA LAND!

So which party of my "advertisement" hurt your feelings enough to justify you using the ultimate insult, and calling me a LIBERAL???

Or to put it another way,
what exactly have you contributed to the shooting community lately to justify your holier than thou attitude??
HUH??
 
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