Release agents

I'm in agreement with the floor wax - johnsons etc. I don't think there is a product that produces a thinner film which is important in the best bedding job possible.

Keep in mind, you can always apply two coats! Remember to provide the necessary clearances in the right places!

Keep us posted on the progress partner.

Joe
Spruce Grove AB
 
Ran out of release agent one day and looked around and spied a spray can of Remington Drilube teflon spray, gave it a try and thats all I use nowadays, leaves a visible dull film that dries in a few seconds, dosent drip or build in crevices/corners, the action always pops out nice and clean, yet is bedded tightly. Small can will do many guns. I find the Brownells and other alcohol based water washable release agents leave a fairly thick film and as a result do not leave a tight fitting action.
 
Any shop that deals in fiberglass resins and such will have good quality spray parting agent at reasonable price.
Ian I agree TOTALLY with your assessment.
Paste wax will work for sure, but is harder to work with.
Brownells spray mold release is great, hard to find up here.
Pam leaves ####ty spots and can effect the cureing
 
What do you guys use to remove the floor wax after it has dried, the stuff we use at work dries hard. Although we have wax stripper I don't know if I should use it on a rifle?

Thanks again, great suggestions

Brambles
 
Brambles, just polish it on the metal. Looks good and helps prevent rust.

If I need to remove it from the bedding to rebed or skim coat, I just give it a quick spray with brake cleaner and wipe it off with a rag. Never had a problem with the skim coat sticking.

Ted
 
I use Kiwi Neutral shoe polish for release agent.You warm the metal parts slightly with a spot light -apply with a cotton patch and Q-tips -let sit ten minutes and buff with a new cotton cloth. Fast-available -thin as anything and works on all the materials I've used it with.
 
Hi guys,

Did my first bedding job and what I used for release agent was SARAN WRAP, I put one layer all around the action and lug/barrel, put the bedding compound then sat the action/barrel in compound. No cleaning afterwards..:D

It was a charm to take out after it was dried... worked for me...:)

PaulT
 
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PaulT said:
Hi guys,

Did my first bedding job and what I used for release agent was SARAN WRAP, I put one layer all around the action and lug/barrel, put the bedding compound then sat the action/barrel in compound. No cleaning afterwards..:D

It was a charm to take out after it was dried... worked for me...:)

PaulT
Click to expand...

Now you should tape the front, sides and bottom of the lug, use paste and finish bedding it without all the saran wrap spacer....
 
guntech said:
Now you should tape the front, sides and bottom of the lug, use paste and finish bedding it without all the saran wrap spacer....
Click to expand...

Hi,

It is now very tight and it fit with no loose at all. If I tape the lug, I will have to remove some material out of there to make space for the tape around the lug because with the tape on it, it doesn't fit anymore.......the thickness of the tape is way more then the one stretched layer of saranwrap used to start......so do I still need to do that?

If I do need to ...... do I put some compound all over again or just where the lug goes in..? :confused:

Thanks

PaulT
 
It is quite common to skim bed after the initial bedding job.

I just have visions of saran wrap bunched up as you try and wrap it around everything without any seams...

Clearance at the front, side and bottom of the lug are required so that when you install the action into the stock, no bedding compound shaves off and goes under the lug..... this could cause an accuracy problem.

If it was mine and would lightly sand all the bedding, give a bit more clearance to the lug area (tape the lug) and do a skim coat of glass.......

Make sure the screw holes have clearance after as well...
 
guntech said:
It is quite common to skim bed after the initial bedding job.

I just have visions of saran wrap bunched up as you try and wrap it around everything without any seams...

Clearance at the front, side and bottom of the lug are required so that when you install the action into the stock, no bedding compound shaves off and goes under the lug..... this could cause an accuracy problem.

If it was mine and would lightly sand all the bedding, give a bit more clearance to the lug area (tape the lug) and do a skim coat of glass.......

Make sure the screw holes have clearance after as well...
Click to expand...


Good directives... I will do so :)


Thanks again


Paul
 
buckbrush said:
Remember all epoxy's shrink, as a percentage of the total amount used. This is what makes a skim coat a good idea.
Click to expand...


Brownell's Acraglass was designed for bedding and has such an extremely small amount of shrinkage it is negligable. That is one reason why I continue to use it since I first bought some in 1966.
 
Buckbrush - excellent point. I was meaning to bring this up. Everyone keep this in mind when using larger amounts or thicknesses.

One reason I prefer to no longer use epoxy for pillars is that the end product is not 100% reliable or equivalent to mechanical properties of metals etc.
 
Has anyone tried one of those lecithin-based mould releases? I've seen them available in spray cans at industrial supply places like Gregg Distributors.
 
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