Reloading .223

Cocked&Locked

Cocked&Locked

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So I'm going to load some .223 for the first time in nearly 20 years to try to coax some extra accuracy out of my AR. I'm starting with 100 rounds of new winchester brass. I intened to length trim. Will I need to full lenght size it being as it's unfired?

Any and all opinions welcome, let the infofest begin.....
 
If you're shooting in a semi-auto, you must full-length resize your brass.

Length trimming should be done every 2-3 reloadings, depending on how much your stretch is.

I like Varget, a fairly clean-burning reliable powder.

NS
 
You need to full-length resize before trimming to uniform the cases and therefore the trim.

Here is everything you ever needed to know about uniforming cases:
http://www.6mmbr.com/jgcaseprep.html

Not all of it is applicable to reloading a semi (eg., neck-sizing, you have to full-length), and not all of it is helpful in a stock AR barrel (like uniforming the primer pockets) which is limited by things other than the ammunition.

For semis, I recommend the Redding "S" die set. It's a full-length body die with a replaceable neck bushing, so you can size the neck just enough and avoid overworking it - lasts longer and may be more concentric. Other manufacturers now make die sets like this.
 
Another bonus of the redding S dies is you can adjust the tension on the neck as an alternative to crimping, as described in the Sierra manual.
 
Cocked&Locked said:
So every one recomends full lenght sizing the brass before its ever fired?
Click to expand...

Yep. Could be dinged out of shape in the bag, it would be very annoying if it didn't chamber and you had to pull it apart......
 
Cocked&Locked said:
So every one recomends full lenght sizing the brass before its ever fired?
Click to expand...

I'd double check the necks and load them.
I've fired over 2000 handloads with new WW brass through my ARs and all dimensions were just fine.
Full length and trimming new-in-the-bag Winchester brass is a waste of time, imho.
 
I'm guessing you could get away with it. BUT, examine the necks closely.
Out of round necks on new brass is the number one reason I run them through a die. I just neck size though, no need to work the brass any more than you have to unless it's something obvious.
If I were going to use it in a competition, or hunting, that's different. no sense taking chances.
 
1)Trimming and full length sizing of new brass seems to many like a waste of time, but if you are looking for accuracy not just of the first batch but the second and third etc you should go ahead and do it so that the 2nd and 3rd are the same as the first, other wise you're working up a load using a 'different' case and could have some variation making your subsequent firings less accurate than the first set. I'm too tired to know if THAT made any sense! ha ha. Trimming is very likely NOT needed though, measure and decide.

2)Look no further than Hodgdon 335 as an excellent 223 powder. Meter's real nice too.

3)Make sure your OAL fits in your mags before you go too far as well. Bolt action guys prefer to make cartridges looong (x thou from the lands) but that doesn't always work in the autos. Stick to written data MaxOAL.

4)Keep your twist rate in mind for bullet selection of course... msg.drew has good taste with the vmax 55s... but if you've got a fast 1/7 you should go heavier (70grn) for better long range accuracy.
 
Last edited:
:Scootin in to ask an opinion:
I am sorry to high jack this trade, but what is an ideal bullet head for 1:9 twist 16" bbl?

Thanks
 
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