Reloading 30-30 and my cast boolits are making "shavings".

[Fall Guy]

I was having the same problem. I pulled the neck expander die of of my RCBS 32-20 3-die-set and noticed it fit snuggly and allowed me to very lightly flare the 30-30 case mouth using only gentle hand pressure. The cast boolits seated perfectly after this.

The ammo functioned flawlessly too.

What diameter are your cast bullets?

 

[mr.e moose]

As Fallguy has mentioned have you measured your cast bullets to see what dia. your mold is throwing?Did you size your bullets?Have you slugged your bore?Do you have the correct nose profile for a top sizing punch if that is what you used?

 

[Ganderite]

I set up a 4 hole Dillon to load 308 ammo. I load with sized primed brass. First station is a 303 FL sizer die back out far enough for case clearance. The expander button of the decapper is set to hit the mouth and flare it. An M die would work fine, but my M die happens to be installed on another tool head for another caliber.

Then a powder die and then the seater die, set to install enough mouth crimp to get rid of the flare.

I suggest you get an M die to flare, or use the flare tool for another caliber you might have on hand that would work. A 32ACP flare die would work. I suggest you skip the factory crimp and just use the crimp function of the seater die.

I load for a lot of calibers and don't worry about extra crimping except for heavy revolver laods.

 

[John Y Cannuck]

The Lee 'powder through expanding die' will expand your case to the desired amount if adjusted properly.

The Lyman 'M' die is IMO still one of the very best and is better than the above.

For boolits that have beveled bases, or wear gas checks, often a good case chamfering is all you need. You can get a bit of case belling by turning the chamfering cutter backwards while applying pressure. Not the best, but it works on thin cases like the 30-30.

There are other reasons for 'shaving' (insert pubescent humor here).
Seriously, the mold is where it starts. Not all molds are created equal.
Some of your boolits have whiskers, and some not? Sizes not uniform?
If you are casting your own, you need to go through and sort your boolits, and be critical. Lots will go back in the melt.

 

[mudgunner49]

1. .... to obtain obulation and accurate ammo...

2. ... A Factory Crimp Die is fine with jacketed bullets but not hardcast or swaged.
There is no reason that a correct crimp cannot be achieved without the LFCD...

Doc.

1. I think the word you're looking for is "obturation" (sorry, that's my English major and 30 years of speaking "Gunner" coming out);

2. Agree and agree!!!!!

 

[H4831]

I will not use a Lee Factory Crimp Die To correct in my opinion loading technique.
This invention is unnecessary and will not correct poor reloading issues. And we will in the end most likely to agree to disagree over its resizing of cast boolits. I have tried it and discarded it Except for jacketed bullets.
Regards
Doc

I fail to see what all the bally-hoo is about the Lee factory crimp die.
I tried one, could see no advantage, whatsoever, in it over the standard seating die crimping.
My Lee factory crimp die is now in some junk box.

 

[Rocket Surgery]

For boolits that have beveled bases, or wear gas checks, often a good case chamfering is all you need. You can get a bit of case belling by turning the chamfering cutter backwards while applying pressure. Not the best, but it works on thin cases like the 30-30.
.

I find this to be the case, you usually just end up with some lube shavings. I loaded .313 in my .311 Enfield brass. At first I was shaving lead, but I had GC's on the boolits. I chamfered inside more than normal, 3 twists with the forster tool, and I had no problems afterward.

Those 205g GC RN .313 bullets actually shot pretty well out of my No.1 mk.3 Lithgow, I think I was doing 5 inches @ 100y with a2600

I have about 75 of them left so I'm going to load up some 7.62x54r medium power loads.