Reloading bench top finish.

Cmiller82

Cmiller82

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This is probably not the right forum for this, but I think the people in here can answer the question best. :)

I just built a reloading bench. The top is unfinished plywood. I need to finish it with something that will not be stained or destroyed by solvents when I'm cleaning guns.

What is the best coating to use? I'd prefer something that is transparent so the wood grain shows through.

I'd also consider a veneer I can glue over the top.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions.
 
I used a 3/4" piece of melamine board as a top layer for my bench. Works like a charm. Stuff doesn't penetrate into it, and it is very easy to clean up. It is also white, so it is really easy to see anything that gets dropped onto it.
 
It's a reloading bench...why would you care about staining? If anything it's less of a problem if it just soaks into the wood rather than dissolving whatever finish you put on it and causing an even larger mess. And replacing the top is cheaper than any quality finish.

But really if you're that concerned about it then sheet steel or arborite are the best choices.
 
Arborite is the best. I've used several different tops on benches and arborite tops are the best by far.

They are the easiest to clean up. Loose powder granuals are easily spotted, on a light colored surface and a dropped primer etc are easily picked up.

I prefer arborite/plywood over formed countertops because they are more rigid and don't loosen up internally with heavy use.

My bench, has 3 presses mounted on it. Its top is three inches (6cm) thick. I used Contact Cement to glue a pre cut piece of tan colored arborite to the surface. The arborite and cement, came from a discount building supply store and cost around $20.
 
I used a sheet of 3/4" MDF, stained it and used a waterborne clearcoat. This is for my loading bench.

I clean my rifles on another bench with its original arborite top. No worries about spills from cleaning solvents on the arborite.

Any finish, other than perhaps an Aliphatic Urethane, will stain and/or lift after time if dropping the solvents on it.

Aliphatic is a 2 part Urethane, stinky as all hell, but pretty much bullet proof when it comes to solvent and oil resistance. In fact I used it on my garage floor and I think it is probably harder than the concrete. Devoe makes an excellent product but it is not cheap.

If you want to maintain the wood look but have ultimate protection, look into the Aliphatic Urethane.
 
Its a reloading bench, not a coffee table. IMO, I would just leave the plywood the way it is. That way you don't have to worry about damaging any finish. I used 3/4" hardwood flooring on my benches. Got it for free, but still don't worry about it, and it looks good
 
sportingman said:
Its a reloading bench, not a coffee table. IMO, I would just leave the plywood the way it is. That way you don't have to worry about damaging any finish. I used 3/4" hardwood flooring on my benches. Got it for free, but still don't worry about it, and it looks good
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I used good one side 3/4" plywood as my bench top, the stains and nicks are there to show experience. I also have a half length steel plate 8" wide set in along the front edge of the bench, and welded the studs in place for my press, then used a piece of quarter inch plywood as a gasket between the two steel surfaces. Remember to overhand your bench top a couple of inches in front of the bench top frame to allow for the press linkage room to articulate.
 
I put an Arborite sheet on mine... with wood grain ;)

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Both benches in my loading room are 3/4" plwood top that i stained . I wouldn`t use a dark stain again, something lighter in colour maybe. Easy to clean up.
 
Thanks for all the tips.

The reason I'm not leaving it unfinished and prone to staining is for "political" reasons. I personally couldn't care less... but someone in the household does. :)

I'll update this thread with pics after I'm done.
 
I like the melamine top because it is white. I can see anything I drop or spill on it. I have another bench with a plywood top and it is harder to see. The melamine is plenty strong in the application that I have it. Two layers of 3/4" melamine on top of one 3/4 sheet of plywood. Doesn't move too much. Super easy to clean.
 
Yes it's "just" a reloading bench. So mine has maple veneer with several coats of urethane.

3 sheets of 3/4" MDF with the top sheet of MDF veneer. The middle sheet was cut about an inch smaller than the top and bottom sheets. Front and side edges are finished with a "T" shaped piece of solid maple, with the tongue fitting into the slot made by shorter sheet sandwiched between the full sized sheets.

Just because it's functional, doesn't mean it has to look like a POS. :D

If you want a carefree surface, then use MDF covered with Arborite. Melamine is just a very thin layer on MDF, arborite has a thick composite backing behind the thin surface layer, and is FAR more durable.
 
My last bench had a crappy particle board surface on it.

So I got some 3/16 aluminum plate sheared to the right size.

It was perfect, a non-sparking surface but extremely durable. Wrote on it with a Sharpie when I was sorting brass then used Hoppes to erase the marks just like a white board.

Plus its nice a smooth so when you spill powder you can easily salvage it knowing it isn't contaminated with wood fibre or dust trapped in wood grain.
 
albertacoyotecaller said:
I have 1" plywood but was thinking of topping it with puckboard.

Any comments.

Greg
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Great surface, other than you will never be able to glue it down...... That is the same reason they are so tough.

If what you are talking about is HDPE sheet, no glue sticks to it (not very well anyway). When they fasten it to various things, it is either mechanically fastened, or heat/melt laminated to a very rough surface. (those are the only methods I have seen, might be others, but they are all "sort of" types of bonds)
 
I left mine unfinished for now. Maybe I'll stain it when I move if it helps maintain the integrity of the surface but not for looks. I didn't even erase the pencil lines for the screws.


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I had a spare box of oak laminate flooring left after doing some rooms in the house. Really not that expensive as you don't need commercial grade laminate. Finished the edges in a contrasting wood. Easily replaced if your wife decides to change the decor as it doesn't need to be glued down. Wipes clean with soap and water (damp cloth) or alcohol, acetone if you have some kind of a spill.
 
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