Reloading Bench - Top Surface?

kingdarb

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I recently built a reloading bench and it turned out quite well. The tabletop is two sheets of plywood for extra rigidity. I would like to find something to screw into/glue on top of the plywood to make completely smooth. Something like a very thin sheet of stainless steel would be ideal. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I could look for something like this??
 
I recently built a reloading bench and it turned out quite well. The tabletop is two sheets of plywood for extra rigidity. I would like to find something to screw into/glue on top of the plywood to make completely smooth. Something like a very thin sheet of stainless steel would be ideal. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I could look for something like this??

I think you would find a thin sheet of metal a major annoyance unless you can somehow glue to firmly to the plywood. I would just put some Arborite on with contact cement. Lumber/Hardware stores stock some of it that is not too expensive.
 
Find a machine shop in the yellow pages and buy a plate of 1/8" stainless steel, or go all our and get 1/4". Screw it down in the corners and away you go.

Other option is a sheet of MDF, you can get them at the hardware store, can even get them coated with melamine so it will be impermeable to solvents, etc.
 
I use a sheet of hardboard - it's like the stuff they make pegboard out of, but without the holes. Very hard & smooth, and easy to clean up. I wish I could think of what it's called, but it's about 3/16 thick and in every building supplies joint. Cheap like borscht, and easily replaceable if it got damaged or worn. Mine has been on for ten years, and shows no signs of wear.
 
I would think that a Steel surface would be to slippery for my tastes, and also have a lot of glare off of it.

I would laminate a sheet of MDF on top, and Paint it with a Melamine Paint, it is very durable paint, can be bought at Benjamin More stores
 
If you want to go steel I have some 12 and 14ga left over from a project at work, Also have a brake to put a return bend on the face edge if you want.

Depending on your location of course.
PL400 is your friend if you don't want to screw it down.
 
Arborite is the way to go. Any colour you want, and different surface textures and finishes. Shiny, flat etc. Only takes a few minutes to apply with contact cement, and if done properly will last almost forever. And, the last time I bought some, it was only about 25$ for a full 4x8 sheet.
 
Battleship linoleum. Won't scratch your guns, cleans up easily, and end-of-rolls are cheap. If it does start to look tired or you just want to change the color it's easy to replace.
 
I used Maple 1x8/1x6. It was suggested by a finishing carpenter. Very pretty. Costly yes, but the rest of the bench was used lumber. I used Lumber Lock to glue the maple top to the 2x6 sub-top.
Clint
 
I used Arborite. Pulled it off - just 'cause, it really worked Ok - put an industiral belting material down, but I gotta say, I like the lino solution. I had lino on a cleaning bench once, and it stood up great, was easy to wipe down, and even looked not bad. I used about twenty coats of a commercial sealant before I used it.
 
I have good one side 3/4" plywood for me top. Untreated. The only upgrade I could see is to a nicer wood sheet like, Maple. I have been very pleased with this surface.
 
Where you are matters.
The top doesn't really need to be smooth, but a sheet of good one side 1/4" plywood or anything made for counter tops will do.
If there's a reclaimed building material shop where you are, start there. Any kind of metal will be pricey.
 
For me, a bench top has to have a colour that contrasts against primers and lil' gun parts like tiny springs and pins so that they're easy to see. And it's important that the top isn't perfectly smooth so things don't slide off onto the floor too easily. And it's very very important that the top isn't finished to the point where I'm scared to work on it, bang on it, leave coffee rings on it, spill gun oil on it, and accidentally whack it with punches and put dents and holes in the surface.

I wouldn't go for a piano finish.
 
I made mine out of solid 2x4's side by side on the top than put 3/4"oak flooring for the final surface than mounted my presses solid no give plus the bench is bolted to the wall.Primers and gun parts are easy to see and wood looks great in the background of any gun too LOL...
 
I made mine out of solid 2x4's side by side on the top than put 3/4"oak flooring for the final surface than mounted my presses solid no give plus the bench is bolted to the wall.Primers and gun parts are easy to see and wood looks great in the background of any gun too LOL...

Listen to this kid, he knows. I used 7/8" oak for both my benches and they take a heck of a beating and barely show it. It is designed in a rustic style so the more beat it looks the better.:)
 
I made mine out of solid 2x4's side by side on the top than put 3/4"oak flooring for the final surface than mounted my presses solid no give plus the bench is bolted to the wall.Primers and gun parts are easy to see and wood looks great in the background of any gun too LOL...

Oh no! Your bench would have been much stronger if you lined up those 2x4's on edge instead of side by side. :D

Of course, mounting your press with 7" bolts might be a bit of a pain...
 
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