Reloading books

what i usually do is get the manufacturer's spec sheet or manual off the internet for the bullet , powder, etc and compare it to my speer 11- the later ones are good for giving you the fundmentals, but the loads are lighter
 
I tried amazon but for these books it's only like $4 cheaper and it's all in the US so I would have to pay border chargers. I will wait and get it from LeStore. They said they should have it next Wed.
 
Hey all,

I just got back from work but stopped by Lebarons on my way back. I picked up the Lyman reloading book. I just have a couple quick questions for anybody know knows.

In the little boxes of info, there is a thing that says BC: 242 and SD: 453 (examples) Does anybody know what that means? It also says 3.080" OAL ... WHat does that mean also?

Any help would be great.

Thanks
 
cereal83 said:
Hey all,

I just got back from work but stopped by Lebarons on my way back. I picked up the Lyman reloading book. I just have a couple quick questions for anybody know knows.

In the little boxes of info, there is a thing that says BC: 242 and SD: 453 (examples) Does anybody know what that means? It also says 3.080" OAL ... WHat does that mean also?

Any help would be great.
b/c- ballistic coeffiecent- ie the aerodyamics of the bullet, that is how it flies through the air- typically, your spire points and boat tails fly better than your round noses
s/d sectional density- the density of the bullet
oal - over all length- the length of the cartridge or bullet-it's important becuse if you're over this the bolt might not close or sit in the magazine-

it's obvious you've only done half the job- READ THE BOOK, INCLUDING THE GLOSSARY

Thanks
Click to expand...
///
 
magicchip said:
Buy EVERY SINGLE BOOK you can lay your hands on. Some of them will not have the information you need, others will..
Click to expand...

X2. Get any manual you can. It's not the information that will hurt but the lack of it. A major consideration is the components you want to use and most of the suppliers have their own suggested loads and manuals for the products they sell.
 
when i reload , it looks very much like someone making a cake from scratch,
cases in front, components lined up, and reloading book or charts in front of me- ORGANIZATION IS KEY- and my computer is not on or nowhere near my reloading stuff-so there's no distractions- the biggest mistakes you can make is with powder,( wrong powders, double charges, no powders, squib loads) -
 
cereal83 said:
lol I wish I would have known earlier. I would have gotten this program
Click to expand...

You can still get it.

I have all possible reloading manuals and still prefer to use QL. It has info, which is lacking in books, however books are good as a cross reference and I like to use it to compare loads from time to time.
 
cereal83 said:
Hey all,

I just got back from work but stopped by Lebarons on my way back. I picked up the Lyman reloading book. I just have a couple quick questions for anybody know knows.

In the little boxes of info, there is a thing that says BC: 242 and SD: 453 (examples) Does anybody know what that means? It also says 3.080" OAL ... WHat does that mean also?

Any help would be great.

Thanks
Click to expand...
BC is the aerodynamic efficiency of the bullet. It'll determine how quickly the bullet slows as it flies, and how much wind deflection will be. Higher is usually better, but it's definitely NOT the most important quality of a bullet, unless maybe you shoot at VERY long distances (500 +).

SD is the sectional density of the bullet - really it means nothing, but is related to how deeply the bullet can penetrate. SD of .300 is recommended for dangerous game, for large game like moose, .270 is quite sufficient. For deer, look for a .230 or better.

OAL is the cartridge overall length (when loaded). I disregard this number altogether, and seat the bullet to whatever length puts me right up to the rifling in the barrel, or to the max length that fits in the magazine; whatever is shorter.

Also, I'd HIGHLY recommend against solely using a computer program for load data until you get a 'feel' for it, and used established, TESTED numbers for now. Even later, I'd recommend against using predicted load numbers alone - I generally recommend alwayscross checking a few sources of data to ensure it's correctness and safety
 
t-star said:
///
Click to expand...


What do you mean there sir?

Johnn Peterson said:
X2. Get any manual you can. It's not the information that will hurt but the lack of it. A major consideration is the components you want to use and most of the suppliers have their own suggested loads and manuals for the products they sell.
Click to expand...
I think I know what you mean now. The Lyman book only has about 10 bullets in it. Differant books will have differant loads which is good. Most of the Lymans loads are from Serria or bullets under 165 grain which I will never use. I want to buy a Nosler book now because they seem to have the best bullets from what I have read so far.


t-star said:
when i reload , it looks very much like someone making a cake from scratch,
cases in front, components lined up, and reloading book or charts in front of me- ORGANIZATION IS KEY- and my computer is not on or nowhere near my reloading stuff-so there's no distractions- the biggest mistakes you can make is with powder,( wrong powders, double charges, no powders, squib loads) -
Click to expand...


I do know what you mean. After readin g about 120 pages from my new book, it tells me a whole bunch of stuff I never knew. Like where to place a bullet. I thought it always went in the same place but if I understand properly, bullets move 0.05 forward or back. I still don't get that yet but I am a n00d.

PeterPan said:
You can still get it.

I have all possible reloading manuals and still prefer to use QL. It has info, which is lacking in books, however books are good as a cross reference and I like to use it to compare loads from time to time.
Click to expand...


Well it does seem like a great program becase they can just input loads from all the books and update it once a month and everybody who has the progra will have ALL the loads from all the books but I dought they do that.


prosper said:
BC is the aerodynamic efficiency of the bullet. It'll determine how quickly the bullet slows as it flies, and how much wind deflection will be. Higher is usually better, but it's definitely NOT the most important quality of a bullet, unless maybe you shoot at VERY long distances (500 +).

SD is the sectional density of the bullet - really it means nothing, but is related to how deeply the bullet can penetrate. SD of .300 is recommended for dangerous game, for large game like moose, .270 is quite sufficient. For deer, look for a .230 or better.

OAL is the cartridge overall length (when loaded). I disregard this number altogether, and seat the bullet to whatever length puts me right up to the rifling in the barrel, or to the max length that fits in the magazine; whatever is shorter.

Also, I'd HIGHLY recommend against solely using a computer program for load data until you get a 'feel' for it, and used established, TESTED numbers for now. Even later, I'd recommend against using predicted load numbers alone - I generally recommend alwayscross checking a few sources of data to ensure it's correctness and safety
Click to expand...

lol thanks, your post accually mentioned what I really wanted to know. I looked all over my Lyman book and I never saw anywhere when it mentioned what this stuff ment.

Thank you very much :)


Thanks all again for your replies as you people make me and many others around here smarter. Just think, when I first signed up here, I never even "legally" shot a gun, now I have 3, going to be reloading soon and next month I finally go on my first hunt. I just want to thank alot of you from here.

:beerchug:
 
Mylesrom,

I am reloading for 30-06. Any emails with info would be good as I am trying to collect as much info as possible.

cereal83 at gmail.com is my email addy. Can I just ask you put cgn in the subject to pass all my spam filers?

Thanks
 
///- just a filler as i didn't swing down all the way to the end of your message and didn't feel like re-typing the whole thing when my character count came up short- it's kind of funny how you can bridge the quote right in the body and add things to it- most of the other boards i use won't let you do that- you can add your comment, but the body of the original text cannot be modified in any way except for the originator
 
Hey Prosper

SD for reloading purposes means Standard Deviation. .

There is a BIG mathematical formula to get SD but basically the standard deviation is a measure of 'average spread' and it can be derived from a sample of shots of sufficient size to make the test valid somewhere around 30 shots.

Extreme spread: is the difference between the highest and lowest data points (in ten velocity figures for example). Subtract the lowest from the highest; this number is the extreme spread.

Bottom line you are looking for small ES and SD in order to get shot to shot consistence.

Now back to our regularly scheduled program.

You may want to search google under reloading. There are a number of reloading sites that you could source for 30-06. One I remember is Accuratereloading.com

Or if you can find them there were booklets put out by the bullet and powder companies on individual calibers.

Good look
 
^ I think you're mistaken, as the S.D. listed in load manuals is indeed sectional density - the cross-sectional area (pi*R^2) of the bullet and the weight of the bullet. That's why it's consistent for all bullets of a given weight and calibre regardless of shape.

Standard deviation is something completely different. You've got the definition spot on and it is valuable for load testing, but you won't find it listed in load manuals
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom