Just wondering what reloading data most of you use out there? I have noticed that Sierra seems to load more of the same powder in loads say as compared to Hodgdon's. Anybody notice this or ever have any pressure problems with Sierra? Thanks Roscoe
Reloading data?
- Thread starter RoscoeP
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I tend to prefer bullet manufacturers data to powder mfg's data.
With eight manuals and the internet cross checking can take as long as reloading.
The only thing that really carries over from one loading manual to another is the maximum allowable pressure, and over the last twenty years or so they have been changing the way they measure it.
I find the best way to find a good load is to pick an approriate powder and use a chronograph to tell me when it's hot enough.
With eight manuals and the internet cross checking can take as long as reloading.
The only thing that really carries over from one loading manual to another is the maximum allowable pressure, and over the last twenty years or so they have been changing the way they measure it.
I find the best way to find a good load is to pick an approriate powder and use a chronograph to tell me when it's hot enough.
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- Fort St John BC
Just curious what your method is on deciding when it's hot enough via chronny.
To op I use quite a few Manuals but my Main goto manual is lyman
Because rifles vary quite a bit, what is max in one rifle may be well below max in another.
But, if you have a good idea of what sort of velocity is achieveable in the specific chambering, then your chrony is your friend.
For example, 3100 fps is a practical maximum in the 300 WIN mag with a 180 grain bullet.
To reach this in rifle "A" may take 74 grains of powder "X"
To reach this in rifle "B" may take 77 grains of powder "X"
Once you have reached a known or listed max velocity, you are at or near maximum pressures for that combination.
Barrel length plays a part in this as well. If the theoretical 3100 fps was reached in a 26" barrel, then a 22" may not reach the target velocity at max pressures.
Regards, Eagleye.
But, if you have a good idea of what sort of velocity is achieveable in the specific chambering, then your chrony is your friend.
For example, 3100 fps is a practical maximum in the 300 WIN mag with a 180 grain bullet.
To reach this in rifle "A" may take 74 grains of powder "X"
To reach this in rifle "B" may take 77 grains of powder "X"
Once you have reached a known or listed max velocity, you are at or near maximum pressures for that combination.
Barrel length plays a part in this as well. If the theoretical 3100 fps was reached in a 26" barrel, then a 22" may not reach the target velocity at max pressures.
Regards, Eagleye.
No. Peak pressure is usually reached before the bullet has moved more than a few inches. the pressure starts to fall off from the peak, but it is still there and still "pushing" on the bullet. A longer barrel is providing a means to keep the pressure acting on the bullet for a longer time (miiliseconds actually, but enough to make a difference) but would not increase the peak pressure. Hope that makes sense.
This is exactly correct.
Just to add a bit. If you are trying to reach the book velocities [given in a 26" barrel] in a shorter barrel, and you keep going up with your powder charge, hoping to reach that target, you may exceed safe pressures in that effort.
Being realistic, you would accept the fact that probably it will not quite reach the speed the manual shows.
Eagleye.
I use the primer condition plus case head measurement to determine my top load, as well as group size. Didn`t own a cronograph for many years of reloading. So many variables, we put a 243 together for a friend, the barrel was so tight I had to order a special pilot for the reamer. He can`t come close to max published data before flat primers and exessive case head expansion become a problem. I also prefere to start with powder manu. data, the cronograph is nice to have but i wouldn`t let it decide my max load for me.
I am sort of like Dead Meat, having loaded for a lot of years before I had access to a chronograph. Thus I found out how to load rifles with considerable variation in what they would safely stand.
In the family we once had two 243s that had a great variation. The Ruger 77 would safely take loads heavier than shown in loading books. The slick European bolt action would lock up the bolt on loads that never fizzed on the Ruger. It took great care to keep the hot loaded rounds seperated from the European.
I also once had two 30-06 bolt actions. With identical loads, one shot from 80 to 100 fps faster than the other. Of course, the one with greater velocity also reached peak loads faster. The slow rifle would handle more powder, and when maximum pressure was reached, it would have greater velocity than the "fast" rifle could do.
I think reloading is often more of an art than a science.
In the family we once had two 243s that had a great variation. The Ruger 77 would safely take loads heavier than shown in loading books. The slick European bolt action would lock up the bolt on loads that never fizzed on the Ruger. It took great care to keep the hot loaded rounds seperated from the European.
I also once had two 30-06 bolt actions. With identical loads, one shot from 80 to 100 fps faster than the other. Of course, the one with greater velocity also reached peak loads faster. The slow rifle would handle more powder, and when maximum pressure was reached, it would have greater velocity than the "fast" rifle could do.
I think reloading is often more of an art than a science.
I am not a big fan of Sierra bullets so I don't own their manual.
I have all the others and the Hogdon Magazine style update.
Sierra bullets have short bearing surfaces, so maybe they can handle a bit larger charge with increased pressure, but maybe not.
I tend to start with the Hornady manual and then back up my plan with Hogdon or Alliant web based data or if I am loading Barnes or Nosler bullets specifically their manuals.
I have all the others and the Hogdon Magazine style update.
Sierra bullets have short bearing surfaces, so maybe they can handle a bit larger charge with increased pressure, but maybe not.
I tend to start with the Hornady manual and then back up my plan with Hogdon or Alliant web based data or if I am loading Barnes or Nosler bullets specifically their manuals.
Very Good Points
What Style of Action was the "European"
I seldom go by just one manual to develop a new load. I will start by looking at the particular bullet mfgr's manual usually, see what appears to be their top three powders. Then go to as many of the other mfgr's manuals to see what results they got with those powders, and develop a picture of the load range to work with that way. Some being higher, some being lower velocity ranges on the top end will give you an idea where to set the small step charges as you are getting into the upper half of the pressure range for that powder & bullet combo. Better to start the small steps on the lower end of that average than the higher end that you may get from just one manual. Sometimes a mfgr's test gun will take a lot more powder than yours will.
