I am looking at reloading my .50ae brass. I have seen numerous die sets for the .50ae that only has 3 die kits. After seeing numerous youtube clips on reloading, I have noticed they have a 4 die turret set up. Now the question is.... will a 50 Beowulf 4 piece die set up work for 50ae loads? input would be appreciated.
Reloading die question
- Thread starter warthog475
- Start date
A .50 Beowulf setup will not work for .50 AE as far as I am aware. That would be like trying to reload 30-30 using 308 dies; totally different cartridges. Don't forget that many cases that look straight walled are actually slightly tapered and different cases can have different tapers.
A quick Google search shows that a .50 AE tapers from .543" above the extractor groove to .529" at the top. A .50 Beowulf round tapers from .535" at the base to .525" at the top. These are outside case dimensions. Since they're tapered you likely also can't get carbide dies that will work without lubricating the cases.
There are a number of dies and different sets will come with different dies. Generally there are:
-full length sizing die
-case neck flaring die (often also serves as a powder-through die that allows powder to be poured in)
-bullet seating and crimping die
-independent crimping die (called a "factory crimp die" if from Lee)
For bottleneck cases there are also neck sizing dies but I don't believe there are many if any for non-necked cases like either .50 you mentioned.
The case neck flaring die adds a slight flare to the case so flat base bullets (and cast bullets) can be seated without crushing the case.
A separate crimping die isn't usually necessary but I do find them useful sometimes.
A quick Google search shows that a .50 AE tapers from .543" above the extractor groove to .529" at the top. A .50 Beowulf round tapers from .535" at the base to .525" at the top. These are outside case dimensions. Since they're tapered you likely also can't get carbide dies that will work without lubricating the cases.
There are a number of dies and different sets will come with different dies. Generally there are:
-full length sizing die
-case neck flaring die (often also serves as a powder-through die that allows powder to be poured in)
-bullet seating and crimping die
-independent crimping die (called a "factory crimp die" if from Lee)
For bottleneck cases there are also neck sizing dies but I don't believe there are many if any for non-necked cases like either .50 you mentioned.
The case neck flaring die adds a slight flare to the case so flat base bullets (and cast bullets) can be seated without crushing the case.
A separate crimping die isn't usually necessary but I do find them useful sometimes.
The guy above is right you maybe able to do it but they are likely to not be sized correctly. I reloaded some 357mag(straight case) rounds with a 9mm die(tapered case) and a shell holder for a 7.62x39 for use in a mares leg lever action. They work but you can't crimp them right and they aren't sized. So can it be done maybe should it be done no buy the correct die and save yourself the trouble.
PitBull1973
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Right Behind You
Neck diameter and base diameter are different there for the inside of the dies would be different too . They are tapered cases with different measurements. Buy the proper die
Setups with 4 die sets might be on a press that uses a separate powder drop station. Or, and more likely, the setup is using separate seating and crimping stations.
If you can't find a factory crimp die to buy along with the usual 3 die set then it's not the end of the world. You can either set it up to seat and crimp in the one go or just run the first pass to seat only then reset the die and run a second pass that crimps only.
On a progressive setup this makes for a lot of fiddly work. On a single stage reloading setup it's just a minute or less to get it re-adjusted. Especially if you get it right the first time then mark the dies so you can move the main body in and out to some marks quickly instead of having to test each time.
If you can't find a factory crimp die to buy along with the usual 3 die set then it's not the end of the world. You can either set it up to seat and crimp in the one go or just run the first pass to seat only then reset the die and run a second pass that crimps only.
On a progressive setup this makes for a lot of fiddly work. On a single stage reloading setup it's just a minute or less to get it re-adjusted. Especially if you get it right the first time then mark the dies so you can move the main body in and out to some marks quickly instead of having to test each time.
The Lee .50 Beowulf 4-die set includes a FL sizer, case neck flare/powder through die, bullet seater, and taper crimp die. The bullet seater die can also apply a crimp with the proper adjustment in every set of dies I've heard of.
I really don't see a need for the 4-die set (as in the 4th die isn't mandatory). I have a Lee 4-die set for 44 mag and the 4th die is just a factory crimp die. I can crimp with the bullet seating die so it doesn't serve much purpose. I do use factory crimp dies with some rifle cartridges on occasion when I'm doing a very small batch and don't feel like adjusting the seating die to also crimp. It's a lot easier to adjust a factory crimp die but it's another step you have to perform to each cartridge that can be skipped if you adjust the seating die properly. If doing more than a tiny batch (sometimes I only load 10-20 rounds for testing) it's worth the extra effort to skip the factory crimp die/taper crimp die and just adjust your seating die to apply the crimp. All the instructions are on the pamphlet that comes with the die set.
I really don't see a need for the 4-die set (as in the 4th die isn't mandatory). I have a Lee 4-die set for 44 mag and the 4th die is just a factory crimp die. I can crimp with the bullet seating die so it doesn't serve much purpose. I do use factory crimp dies with some rifle cartridges on occasion when I'm doing a very small batch and don't feel like adjusting the seating die to also crimp. It's a lot easier to adjust a factory crimp die but it's another step you have to perform to each cartridge that can be skipped if you adjust the seating die properly. If doing more than a tiny batch (sometimes I only load 10-20 rounds for testing) it's worth the extra effort to skip the factory crimp die/taper crimp die and just adjust your seating die to apply the crimp. All the instructions are on the pamphlet that comes with the die set.
