Reloading estimates - what's your guess?
- Thread starter rimlick
- Start date
!Depends on your budget. Like all things you can start cheap with a Lee kit and go up from there. Lots of time saving goodies and gauges to help increase accuracy in your rounds but all that adds more $$$. How many rounds of 338 do you shoot a month? Shoot any other centerfire cartridges?
- Location
- sudbury, ontario
Never mind the cheap junk ....it breaks ...then good luck for warranty.....all bullchit......
If your going to do it ...buy it once ...buy the good stuff it lasts for ever....
Oh buy this then sell it buy that ...sell it buy this ...blaaaaa!!!!
Just like what I did with my xl650.....buy the time I got everything I needed for my 650....for 200...or 500 more I could of had a super 1050.....and not need all the little extras
Hmm sell it and take a wicked loss ...ya real smart
Just my 2 cents
But do what you want
If your going to do it ...buy it once ...buy the good stuff it lasts for ever....
Oh buy this then sell it buy that ...sell it buy this ...blaaaaa!!!!
Just like what I did with my xl650.....buy the time I got everything I needed for my 650....for 200...or 500 more I could of had a super 1050.....and not need all the little extras
Hmm sell it and take a wicked loss ...ya real smart
Just my 2 cents
But do what you want
Depending on your situation, Stubblejumper is right, it can take some time to recoup your money and really start to see savings. But along the way you will see it is a whole other 'hobby' learning it, working up loads, and generally taking pride in 'rolling' your own. Plus it's also fun.
1000 rounds of 223 to buy a reloading set up is not worth it ,you need to reload for more firearms than that, at half price per round reloaded per say, to spend a 1000 bucks on a base reloading set up you need to reload 5000 rounds per year to save money. Buy 223 on sale, I save the most on 243 and larger . A day at the range is 500 rounds min.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
If you buy or borrow a recent reloading manual (Speer, Nosler, Hornady, Sierra) it will have a clear description of the reloading process. You will need something to de-prime and resize your cases. Then trim them to length and de-burr. Then place an accurate charge of powder. Then seat the bullets. Normally, you buy powder by the pound (7,000 grains), and primers and bullets usually (not always) come in packs of 100. So, if you said you are only planning to load for 338 LM, and you only plan to shoot 60 rounds per year, it will take you a very long time (10 or more years) to get to the point where basic reloading tools (single stage press, dies, trimmer, caliper, scale), powder, primers and bullets are paid for by savings over buying factory loadings. There is a small chance that you will immediately stumble across a much more accurate load than you can buy, for your rifle, but plan to go through many rounds to discover that "magic" load. And you already have brass that's been fired in your rifle, right? Because new 338 LM brass is going to set you back $3 to $4 each.
Many of us started reloading with a "basic" Lee Loader - $25-ish lets you make rounds that go "bang". You'll get hooked. Then you'll want to get more accurate in dispensing powder and will get a scale. Then a bulk dispenser/powder measure to speed that up. Then a press so that you can full length size. An annealer to re-juvenate the brass - and so on. It is a hobby all in its own right, but I have never successfully "saved any money" by reloading - shot lots more, have literally several hundred pounds of powder, brass, bullets, primers waiting to get used up, which required more rifles / cartridges to try which required more powders, bullets, dies, and then more storage space and then more work space and so on it goes. Great game it get involved in, but I do not buy into the "saves me money" story...
Many of us started reloading with a "basic" Lee Loader - $25-ish lets you make rounds that go "bang". You'll get hooked. Then you'll want to get more accurate in dispensing powder and will get a scale. Then a bulk dispenser/powder measure to speed that up. Then a press so that you can full length size. An annealer to re-juvenate the brass - and so on. It is a hobby all in its own right, but I have never successfully "saved any money" by reloading - shot lots more, have literally several hundred pounds of powder, brass, bullets, primers waiting to get used up, which required more rifles / cartridges to try which required more powders, bullets, dies, and then more storage space and then more work space and so on it goes. Great game it get involved in, but I do not buy into the "saves me money" story...
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I just did a quick rundown off the Cabela's site in my head for a .308 168 grain. Bullets (100), powder (bulk 8lb), primers (100), cases (100) for 100 rounds,..about $185 without tax. The cheapest 5 boxes (20 rounds in each) 168 grain was about $215 no tax included. Not looking at the brands. Just a quick rundown. I may have made mistakes. About 30 bucks difference over 100 rounds.
I am looking at the Lee classic loader,..about $70 shipped. Will need the hand chamfering tools,..about another $15-20.
I think it will be worth it to reload, finding a good place and buy in bulk. I am not interested in spending several hundred for the whole kit. I'm patient. And hey, what more fun can you have with powder, primers, bullets and a rubber hammer.
I am looking at the Lee classic loader,..about $70 shipped. Will need the hand chamfering tools,..about another $15-20.
I think it will be worth it to reload, finding a good place and buy in bulk. I am not interested in spending several hundred for the whole kit. I'm patient. And hey, what more fun can you have with powder, primers, bullets and a rubber hammer.
I would never attempt to load without a scale, to verify the powder charge. As well, the LEE Classic Loader only neck sizes the cases, so after a few firings, the cases will become difficult to chamber. As well , without the ability to vary the powder charge, you are stuck with a single load, of limited powders, that your rifle may not shoot well.
The people that say Lee sucks, spend big $$ in the beginning or you will be sorry are leading you astray. All the manufacturers have their issues, most seem very quick to send you whatever breaks. You can get set up with a basic single stage press and some brass prep tools and scale for around $300-$350. Components and a set of dies per caliber, go from there. 60 rnds a yr from a 338? Seems like a lukewarm approach. Reloading and shooting several hundred, or shooting factory 6.5CM in the rifle you got for your 338 would probably help you more.
Whether it's worth it is an individual thing. For me, I found another hobby I enjoy, I can make more accurate tailored rounds compared to factory and afford to make more to shoot. Somehow I can't bring myself to buy expensive match ammo, but I have no trouble building my own with the best components, go figure.
Thanks for the reply. This is sort of the math I was looking for.
Thanks for the long reply. It seems like it could be worth it if I can find someone nice enough to help me with their own tools and kit (at least initially) so the stuff I need to buy is limited. Yes I have loads of brass. And even have bullets too already that I picked up randomly for cheap. I guess I would agree in the sense that I don't see it saving loads of money unless your shoot quite a bit. But it would be nice to have tailored .338 loads.
It all depends on your personal situation, how much do you shoot, do you have more time than money, what calibers are jou planning to shoot in the future.
To me it's a hobby I enjoy, once you have the press, scale etc then starting to load another caliber is only the cost of dies plus the components.
You can buy a used setup and not loose (much) money when you sell it down the road. This way there is almost no equipment depreciation cost and are you looking at just the components. I don't "calculate" my time since it is a hobby just like I don't put a $ value on range time.
My reloading gear is all used with the exception of a universal decapping die and a set of primer pocket swage dies.
To me it's a hobby I enjoy, once you have the press, scale etc then starting to load another caliber is only the cost of dies plus the components.
You can buy a used setup and not loose (much) money when you sell it down the road. This way there is almost no equipment depreciation cost and are you looking at just the components. I don't "calculate" my time since it is a hobby just like I don't put a $ value on range time.
My reloading gear is all used with the exception of a universal decapping die and a set of primer pocket swage dies.
Just post in mentor forum.
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...28-Meeting-place-for-Newbies-and-Mentors-Sask
I'm 72 years old.
I've been reloading since 1964.
Best hobby that you ever get.
Don't buy junk to start.
If you buy Lee, just get the big press.
The smaller one is not very strong, [they break at the toggle], and [Lee won't come good for it]
There are only a few things I would buy from Lee and the scale is not one of them.
RCBS is good as is Lyman. I 0nly buy Lyman or RCBS dies.
I have one set of Lee dies in 30-30, [3 die set]. They actually work good.
I tried the Lee Really good buy dies, [JUNK].
This morning I will be loading some 223 for my Weatherby varmint rifle.
No need to go out in the snowstorm
Take care and merry x-mas to all
I've been reloading since 1964.
Best hobby that you ever get.
Don't buy junk to start.
If you buy Lee, just get the big press.
The smaller one is not very strong, [they break at the toggle], and [Lee won't come good for it]
There are only a few things I would buy from Lee and the scale is not one of them.
RCBS is good as is Lyman. I 0nly buy Lyman or RCBS dies.
I have one set of Lee dies in 30-30, [3 die set]. They actually work good.
I tried the Lee Really good buy dies, [JUNK].
This morning I will be loading some 223 for my Weatherby varmint rifle.
No need to go out in the snowstorm
Take care and merry x-mas to all
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