Reloading estimates - what's your guess?

Id be shooting around 1000 rounds of .223 in a year, and about 60 of .338.. ish.

I bought the .338 to learn about long range shooting and reloading so here I am lol. If anyone is wondering why such a caliber, just for fun!

not worth it... especially if you reload for one caliber only and only 60 rounds per year.

to reload for the 223 is not always a money saver, you can buy ammo specials, so reloading for it, especially investing into reloading equipment, doesn't make any sense
 
I reload 9mm/.40sw/.45acp for approx 55% of the cost of factory in component cost. Then, I build high quality accurate .308 match ammo for approx 70c per round comparable to Fed 168 SMK match that goes on the average $36+ tax per box of 20 but because it is custom made to my rifle, it actually is 10-20% more accurate( I test measured it). So, I'm saving huge here since I shoot approx. 1500 rounds/year. Where things get really crazy is when you start loading things like 12ga slugs or god forbid 45-70. I build 45-70/405 gr for again some 65c-75c a round. Go buy that same ammunition, it will run you $50,- on the average. When I pro-rate the equipment amortization such as press, dies etc. it works out to .05c per pistol round and maybe 1c per rifle round. Generally, the larger round, the more savings so if you load lets say .338 Lapua, you will be saving. I would be curious what the savings would be for stuff like .50 BMG
 
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According to my quick spreadsheet it will take you over 9 years to break even, if you reload 60 .338 lapua cartridges per year.

However if you buy the same amount of cartridges at an average cost of $141.00 per box of 20, it will cost you $3846.41
over the same 9 years without taking into account the obligatory price increase during this period of time.
 

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According to my quick spreadsheet it will take you over 9 years to break even, if you reload 60 .338 lapua cartridges per year.

However if you buy the same amount of cartridges at an average cost of $141.00 per box of 20, it will cost you $3846.41
over the same 9 years without taking into account the obligatory price increase during this period of time.

Your spread sheet also has a higher than necessary cost for the reloading equipment, and OP won't need 150 pieces of brass if he's shooting 60 rounds a year. I think he'd break even faster than you think.
 
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According to my quick spreadsheet it will take you over 9 years to break even, if you reload 60 .338 lapua cartridges per year.

However if you buy the same amount of cartridges at an average cost of $141.00 per box of 20, it will cost you $3846.41
over the same 9 years without taking into account the obligatory price increase during this period of time.

After the 545 rounds the reloading kit is hardly broken in and worth at least half of the price it was bought for so it's not correct to calculate the full depreciation over these rounds.
 
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After the 545 rounds the reloading kit is hardly broken I'm and worth at least half of the price it was bought for so it's not correct to calculate the full depreciation over these rounds.

This is not a depreciation calculation, it is rather a Break Even Point calculation.:rolleyes:
 
Your spread sheet also has a higher than necessary cost for the reloading equipment, and OP won't need 150 pieces of brass if he's shooting 60 rounds a year. I think he'd break even faster than you think.

How often do you think you can reload 338 magnum brass?

I calculated approximately 3 times (which is VERY generous with such a caliber), hence the 150 brass to load 545 cartridges.

If you purchase reloading equipment used, for let's say $300.00 press, scale etc...
and only 100 brass, it will still take 6 years to break even.
 
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How often do you think you can reload 338 magnum brass?

I calculated approximately 3 times (which is VERY generous with such a caliber), hence the 150 brass to load 545 cartridges.

If you purchase reloading equipment used, for let's say $300.00 press, scale etc...
and only 100 brass, it will still take 6 years to break even.

Three loadings is not generous, I load my belted magnum cases at least five or six times before tossing them, and I could load them more, but I am overly cautious with my hunting loads.
 
Curious if anyone has the time to break down the real cost of reloading. In my case it would only be .338 lapua.

Is used parts the way to go? Can anyone give me a ballpark? Thanks 👏!

Here is a guesstimate. Assuming you buy new.

IPSC shooter that shoots 10-15K rounds a year. Buys press and projectiles and brass. Dillon 550 as the press of choice. 3 years to break even shooting .40 cal. 6 years shooting 9mm

PRECISION rifle shooter who shoots 3 K per year between 2 calibers of rifle Using single stage press plus bullets, powder brass and pills, 3-4 years (add 6 months for a Dillon 550)

3 Gunner P/R/S that will shoot 7k pistol, 8k rifle 223 Dillon press and pills/primer brass 2-3 years plus whatever shotgun costs.



After the break even period, all your costs are maintaining supplies of bullets brass and powder, the press has paid for itself. Once that is done, you shoot the same amount for 50% the cost of purchasing commercially loaded ammo.

BUT

There is a time investment required for reloading.
 
OP your thread title asked for our "guess" ....!! This is why the majority of us gave a generalized answer. The last several posters have really been kind to you, and holding your hand.
 
i think there is an old proverb that says " if you have to ask you cant afford it"

There is always a break even point.... could be 5 mins could be 500 years. The better question is why did you consider reloading... do you just want to save money? with the amount you shoot it might be better to wait for sales on ammo and stock up... is this an estimate, if you could shoot more would you?

The down side with the roi calculation above is that they dont take into consideration you life. by this i mean one year you might be swamped at work, move, what ever. other year you could be at the range shooting 20 rounds every other day.
 
You're kidding?????

The first thing to consider is whether or not you have to purchase a complete reloading outfit. Then find out the cost of bulk components and compare them to commercially produced ammo.

I asked why you were kidding because you chose one of the most expensive commercial cartridges to shoot. At $150 per box plus after taxes it doesn't take long to recoup costs.

That being said, HOW MANY ROUNDS DO YOU SHOOT per year????

If you learn how to take proper care of you empty cases, 100 cases should be enough to last until the rifle is shot out.

IMHO, if you're only shooting a box per year or less and don't reload for any other cartridge, reloading is hardly worth the cost or effort, unless you have a rifle that't fussy about which load it prefers.

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Reloading for the more expensive rifle cartridges is where you can really save money on a per shot basis. Grab a 500 box of 300 grain SMKs and a keg of powder from Higginson's and by those are gone it would be one heck of a loading setup that wasnt paid for a few times over. Saving somewhere between 40 and 140 bucks per box will do that, and if you were to multiply that across the 25 boxes in that 500 box it adds up. To an enthusiast 500 rounds is SFA. Its a great theory anyway. ;)

The trouble with that line of reasoning is I dont even know anyone who asked for 25 boxes of Lapua ammo and got it, or anyone who sold it. I wonder how many well stocked dealers you'd clean out trying? The bottom is that people shoot any meaningful amount of the expensive flavors hand load, and still spend a lot more than they ever would have the other way. Volume will eat up the savings. Theres no sense comparing apples to easter bunnies.

If you really want more money in your jeans; shoot less or shoot something else. Wheres the fun in that?
 
budget reloading supply, 1000, 223 hornady 55gr, 0.14 cents, powder at 50.00 per pound .or .00714 per gr. 28gr. .23 cents , primer, .06 comes to .43 cents per round with range brass. 8.60 for box of 20. shop around powder and primers do come on sale.
 
Reloading for the more expensive rifle cartridges is where you can really save money on a per shot basis. Grab a 500 box of 300 grain SMKs and a keg of powder from Higginson's and by those are gone it would be one heck of a loading setup that wasnt paid for a few times over. Saving somewhere between 40 and 140 bucks per box will do that, and if you were to multiply that across the 25 boxes in that 500 box it adds up. To an enthusiast 500 rounds is SFA. Its a great theory anyway. ;)

The trouble with that line of reasoning is I dont even know anyone who asked for 25 boxes of Lapua ammo and got it, or anyone who sold it. I wonder how many well stocked dealers you'd clean out trying? The bottom is that people shoot any meaningful amount of the expensive flavors hand load, and still spend a lot more than they ever would have the other way. Volume will eat up the savings. There's no sense comparing apples to easter bunnies.

If you really want more money in your jeans; shoot less or shoot something else. Wheres the fun in that?

My stepson bought 2 ten count boxes/cases of ammo for his 338 Ultra Mag. The dealer gave him a "DEAL" at $1500, taxes in, per case. Needless to say I just about fell over. I'm getting long in the tooth and $150+ for a box of 20 is like putting a knife in my chest. My wife is married to a CHEAP BASTURD.

He likes to shoot and went through his 400 rounds between the spring and fall of the first few months he had the rifle. He's also a sucker for punishment.

Thankfully he saved all of his empty cases, other than three he used to shoot an Elk and a Moose.

He noticed his rifle wasn't nearly as accurate as it had been. It was a wake up call for him to clean the rifle PROPERLY as he had been taught. Still, accuracy could be better. The throat had been pushed forward about .075 inches over 400 rounds. Not being a magnum fan, I was surprised but it didn't take much to figure out the wear rate.

I loaded up his 20 boxes of empties with 250 grain Speer, flat base, spire points. I went to those bullets because that's what his rifle liked.

No, I'm not that adventurous. I cheated with a Lead Sled.

Once I determined a load that would work, I measured the throat wear again. It was a very consistent .004in per box. I loaded each box with an added .004 to overall length from the previous box. That gave him a .020in jump from the case to the leade. This was good because it meant the necks held the fireformed cases true to the axis of the bore.

The rifle has retained it's accuracy of an average 1moa if the shooter does their part.

FLINCH is a bigger issue than my stepson will admit to. I've watched him flinch and even close his eyes on the bench, which is the worst place to feel recoil.

One thing I've noticed with these huge, overbore cartridges, they need to be re annealed between every loading. The cases get very hard to form every time they're fired. This is of course IMHO.

When I gave my stepson the cost of reloading his ammo, including working out the accuracy loads he was shocked. I had an old RCBS press sitting on a shelf that was purpose built for reloading 50BMG. It was perfect for his needs, which now include 300 Ultramag and 338 Lapua. He's still a bit reluctant to reload on his own. For some reason he believes there is some sort of magic involved. Still, at $1200 per ten boxes savings, he doesn't complain.

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The thought of paying that for factory ammo makes my blood run cold. I've got 2500 rounds through my Bat actioned .338 Edge that Defensive Edge put together. First barrel too, and so far the throat hasn't budged on the Hart. I would have bet against that. My 300 RUM died at a quarter of that.
 
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