Reloading for 2 rifles in same caliber

W

wallz

CGN Regular
Rating - 96.6%
28   1   0
Location
Prince George
I have two 7mm-08 rifles that I will be reloading for and wanted to ask those in the know a few questions. One is a Kimber Adirondack and the other a Savage model 16. Savage will be max 400yrds for my son, while the kimber I want the flexibility to go a bit further, so more accurate. Using Barnes 145 gr LRX.
I've rung steel up to 900 yrds with the kimber with factory ammo.

1.) I am thinking of getting a different set of dies for the 2nd rifle, just so I don't have to reset the dies for the two. Or is it just fine to just use the one set of dies and keep them both the same. Same shoulder set back, same bullet depth?

2.) I am hoping to run the same combo in both rifles. Powder weight, seating depth. I can set for the one, and see how it shoots in the 2nd. Or should I just go ahead and make them fit each rifle?

So far the kimber has the more limiting factor of internal mag length, and the Savage has a sloppyer throat, and doesn't look to picky for 1 moa shooting. Hoping to set the kimber to .5 moa or better, and just let the Savage do its thing.

Thanks.
 
I asked about similar on CGN - sort of response from experience that I tended to trust - need to do pressure series separately for each - then check one to the other - maybe your chambers match - maybe they do not - maybe they match "good enough" for your uses. Same with loadings - sort of have to develop specific for each, or, if within pressure limits, see if the secondary one is "good enough".

I have 3 x WWI 30-06 - was hoping to be able to just make up one same batch and use interchangeably for all - apparently is called a "start" load - so far as pressure goes - is nothing guaranteed that will be the most accurate load for any particular one - but will be "safe" in all. I also have multiple 6.5x55 Swede rifles - I have not even started for them - many hundreds of 130 grain Norma Match bullets on hand, though - if that is a start for them?

To be honest - I "reset" dies ever time I reload for a particular cartridge - is looked at as voodoo or a black art - I think should be straight forward - takes about 2 minutes to accurately set up a sizing die for a particular rifle chamber - or takes hours if not familiar with what you are doing - I do not think a second set of dies is particularly good idea unless one set has features very different for the other - for different purposes.
 
Last edited:
I am in the same boat, I have multiple 260 rems for the wife and kids, 4 now total. For ease, and lack of confusion and to avoid a problem I load to compromise. I load to what works acceptably well in all. Then anyone can grab bullets and go.

When I want accuracy only each rifle is loaded for specifically and they have their own dies plus the ‘shared’ one.

It up to you on what is ‘acceptable’ to you.

Enjoy hunting with your kid!
 
There are some rifles, that will shoot just about anything they're fed well.

When you find one of these rare jewels, hang onto it.

The only rifles I've had, that I've been able to use one die set and not have to reset it for another rifle chambered for the same cartridge, have been Brazilian M1908 and M1935 Mausers.

I don't know how the Mauserwerke plant managed to keep the tolerances so close on the several I've loaded for, but it's impossible to tell which rifle they've been fired from.

The chances of an off the shelf Savage and a semi custom Kimber having identical chambers/throats is almost nil.

Your first option, one set of dies for each rifle and keeping the cases for each segregated is what I do for the three different 308Win rifles I shoot.

None of the three will shoot ammo loaded for the others well. This is more the norm.

The only way you're going to find out if a one load fits and shoots well in both rifles it to try it out. If you're extremely lucky and it works, go to the nearest store that sells lottery tickets.
 
I use another set of dies when I have 2 or more rifles chambered the same.
Working with 3x 30-06; 2x 270 Win.; 2x 7x57; 3x 308 Norma Mag.
10 sets of dies in all. I have a micrometer seater for some of these.
Dave.
 
You don’t need 2 sets of dies.The sizing die should be the same. If anything use a different shell holder to adjust for different headspace.
Seating depth will likely change. Use a micrometer style seating die with a Hornady comparator.
 
coleman1495 said:
You don’t need 2 sets of dies.The sizing die should be the same. If anything use a different shell holder to adjust for different headspace.
Seating depth will likely change. Use a micrometer style seating die with a Hornady comparator.
Click to expand...

That's good advice. A relatively easy way to adjust for headspace differences. - dan
 
If you have a chronograph, it would help a lots. My accuracy international AT and Sig cross are in 308 win, both are sharing the same load, both are doing half moa at 100 meters except AI AT are doing a lots better due to the profile of the barrel. For the sake of testing, I even shot the same load in my Stag 10, the fps are varied between the length of the rifle but it is one of the best for auto loader that I ever tested.
 
chances are, when you bump the shoulder back on the brass fired in a savage, it will not fit in a tikka, savage have generous chambers, tikka run them on the tight side, to make brass fit both your going to be way oversizing and brass isn't going to last. if you're using separate brass in both rifles then this won't be an issue, but the chances of 1 sizing die setting working best for both rifles is slim, dies are cheap, buy a set of dies for every rifle, then when you experiment and screw something up it only effects 1 rifle and not a whole fleet.

take a piece of fired brass from the savage, measure the shoulder to base with a hornady case gauge, then size it to fit into the tikka.......how far back did you move the shoulder? 18 thou?........I can partially size my 7mm-08 brass with a full length sizing die set a nickle above the shell holder, brass fits in 3 different tikka rifles, shoulder is untouched.......
 
I load for 8 different .308's and they all get the same diet...Full length sized Lapua brass...CCI mag primer...45 grains of Varget under a 155 gr SMK...The heavy barreled rifles all shoot sub one inch and ring the IPSC torso gong out to 900 yards...The lighter rifles all do what I need done out to 450 yards...In the good old days this was also the same diet I fed the AR 10's and they hit steel with confidence out at 900 as well.

I have come to the conclusion that when a rifle is put together right they all shoot quality ammo real well...How else could the precision rifle manufacturers have half inch accuracy guarantees with match grade ammo.
 
I have several calibers that I shoot in multiple rifles. 300 Win, 7 STW, 30-06, .308, .223 are the biggest culprits. When you have a 30-40 year history with a cartridge multiple die sets just sort of happen, but a set of redding competition sheller holders go a long ways to optimising sizing without even adjusting sizing dies. Micrometer seaters take care of bullet changes, and different throats.

Then there's loads that just seem to work in most rifles of that caliber. Then there's the somewhat foreign to some that there's such a thing as good enough.
 
I second Redding competition shellholders and mic seaters. As for your main question of if it can be done, only your rifles can tell you that. You'll have to experiment and see. You may get lucky or you may have to segregate things.
 
Early in my reloading hobby I loaded for 4 30-06s. I set out for that holy grail, one load. Each of my sons had one and I had a couple . My two were easy, a pf M-70 and a M-700, they would take the same load except one went 10fps faster. I think there is a hint there. But with the two boys' rifles, one would open up, and the other close .

Good Luck
 
I have a couple 308's and 264's. Each get their own set of dies. Set up once and haven't had to adjust since. I always check when I start loading with the headspace comparison tool.

7mm-08 isn't a difficult to find caliber to get dies for.
 
coleman1495 said:
You don’t need 2 sets of dies.The sizing die should be the same. If anything use a different shell holder to adjust for different headspace.
Seating depth will likely change. Use a micrometer style seating die with a Hornady comparator.
Click to expand...

dan belisle said:
That's good advice. A relatively easy way to adjust for headspace differences. - dan
Click to expand...

^^^

yodave said:
chances are, when you bump the shoulder back on the brass fired in a savage, it will not fit in a tikka, savage have generous chambers, tikka run them on the tight side, to make brass fit both your going to be way oversizing and brass isn't going to last. if you're using separate brass in both rifles then this won't be an issue, but the chances of 1 sizing die setting working best for both rifles is slim, dies are cheap, buy a set of dies for every rifle, then when you experiment and screw something up it only effects 1 rifle and not a whole fleet.
take a piece of fired brass from the savage, measure the shoulder to base with a hornady case gauge, then size it to fit into the tikka.......how far back did you move the shoulder? 18 thou?........I can partially size my 7mm-08 brass with a full length sizing die set a nickle above the shell holder, brass fits in 3 different tikka rifles, shoulder is untouched.......
Click to expand...


Dogleg said:
I have several calibers that I shoot in multiple rifles. 300 Win, 7 STW, 30-06, .308, .223 are the biggest culprits. When you have a 30-40 year history with a cartridge multiple die sets just sort of happen, but a set of redding competition sheller holders go a long ways to optimising sizing without even adjusting sizing dies. Micrometer seaters take care of bullet changes, and different throats.
Then there's loads that just seem to work in most rifles of that caliber. Then there's the somewhat foreign to some that there's such a thing as good enough.
Click to expand...

^^^ this is now gospel for myself. Thanks Dogleg. You explained it to me time and again and I run it. Yodave has the key to the cornerstone for how to organize recipes and settings per rifle IMHO.

supernova said:
I second Redding competition shellholders and mic seaters. As for your main question of if it can be done, only your rifles can tell you that. You'll have to experiment and see. You may get lucky or you may have to segregate things.
Click to expand...

2 cents. I too load for two 7mm-08. both Savage and till last year two SMLE 303 mark IV's. Comments highlighted to indicate I share the same thoughts and experiences from each CGN'r above. These cats have have shared enough for me to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear so to speak.

Keep a headstamp per rifle, micrometer seating dies to help with the differences and competition seating dies to make the changes for headspace from rifle to rifle. Each rifle will have it's own preferences in dimensions and charge but each doesn't need exhaustive amounts of tooling for each situation. Good book keeping, and flexible situation tooling selections, should fit the bill. It has for me.


mbogo3 said:
Don't be surprised if the Savage out shoots the Kimber.
Click to expand...

^^^ this is pure satisfaction in my world. Cheers mbogo!

Again, 2 cents for what's its worth.
Regards
Ronr
 
I get the idea of using different shell holders, but I run a. Forster, so that is a no go.

I guess another set of dies is in my future. Above info just reiterated what I was already thinking, so at least I know I'm not totally lost. I started rolling my own just over a month ago now.

I did a quick ladder test and the next step is going to be to run the same 5 powder charges, 3 shot groups in both at the same length and then decide how to proceed from there.

I will have to measure the fired brass from the savage and see how close they actually are together. Never thought about that one. Most of the fired brass I already have is from the Kimber, so even I have contemplated buying some new lapua brass, and might just pick up 100 each and then keep them separate as mentioned. Final decision will be how close the fired brass measure up to each other.
A chrono will be coming eventually, just out of the realm right now, as the reloading gear and components in the last 3 months since I started this rabbit hole is adding up too fast.

Some great suggestions guys. Thanks.
 
Dogleg wrote - Then there's loads that just seem to work in most rifles of that caliber. Then there's the somewhat foreign to some that there's such a thing as good enough.

Once I got the accuracy bug, "good enough" was never "good enough" again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom