Reloading for a Garand

ryan9991

ryan9991

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I'm interested in a garand and have heard quite a few things about using factory ammo. (Bent op rods etc.) And I reload anyways so that won't be a problem. What I have taken from my research is use a light bullet 150-180 grain. And perhaps a slower burning powder. Can anyone comment on that? But my other question is how how can I tailor a load to my rifle. What signs do I use to create a recipe which will not damage the rifle. And I'll take any other comments about reloading for garands.
Thanks
Ryan
:rockOn:
 
The best powders to use are IMR4895 and IMR4064. You want a medium speed powder, not a slow powder. I have used 150-168gr bullets with mine and have found it loves Hornady 165gr SST's over 47.5gr of 4064. This is a mild 30-06 load by current standards and is easy on the rifle. The two deer taken so far with it haven't complained, either.

For plinking you can load it down quite a ways and still get 100% function without beating it to death. IMO, this is one of those cases where loading up to max is pointless and simply wears out the gun faster for no gain.

PM me with an email address and I can send a list of Garand loads I have compiled over the last few years. My 7th edition Hornady reloading manual has a section of loads specifically for the Garand if you want more options.


Mark
 
I've done a little load developement for my Garand. Tried several medium burning powders (both 4895's, 748, Varget, R15 and 4064) with Hornady 150 gr SP's and FMJ's and 165 SP's. Settled on 46.0 grs of 4064 and the 165's as my plinking load. Showed the best accuracy and is very easy on the old veteran.
 
I purchased my garand on an impulse roughly a month or two ago, and was unaware of the need to reload, so had to do a intense burst of research in the week it was in transit, so I could shoot it the day it arrived...

Still fresh in my brain for now, but please note I am not an expert, or claim to be. Just someone who has time on the computer and can share what i've learned with my garand.

I use, IIRC, 48.0 grains of imr4064 pushing 150 gr hornady bulk. This is my "bulk" load, not tuned, it's just for fun on the range, learning the rifle and using it to teach others to shoot.

Look at velocities and pressures produced by the burning of the m2 ball, this is what many modern loads try to replicate.

Many reloading manuals with 30-06 included in them (read: all of them lol) look for high velocities, and higher pressures, as you already know, with loads built for modern rifles.

as mmMatt stated, the 7th edition of the hornady manual does have information about reloading for the garand, however I find them to be limited on the powder selection.

Please do take care to avoid the FEDERAL primers, they are soft and can slam fire..

When I started my reloading, I used the 30-06 data section of hornadys manual, not the garand. (there was no imr4064 for 150 grain in the garand section)
I selected the load that produced roughly 2700 fps.
Seated the bullet a little bit longer than the cannulure (S.P), trying different lengths, to ensure function.

Make sure you do remove any excess material in the primer pocket, as again, high primers can cause slams and spontaneous disassembly.

signs your load may be to hot with the garand are : the clips prematurely ejecting, increase in recoil, a change in where your brass ends up.

if you are really concerned, purchase an adjustable gas plug from pocketfisherman. they have ports with vent excess gas.
One of these, with reloads with ensure your garand has a long and happy life..

Hope this helps!
 
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ryan9991 said:
I'm interested in a garand and have heard quite a few things about using factory ammo. (Bent op rods etc.) And I reload anyways so that won't be a problem. What I have taken from my research is use a light bullet 150-180 grain. And perhaps a slower burning powder. Can anyone comment on that? But my other question is how how can I tailor a load to my rifle. What signs do I use to create a recipe which will not damage the rifle. And I'll take any other comments about reloading for garands.
Thanks
Ryan
:rockOn:
Click to expand...

The original .30-06 M2 Ball ammnition was a 152gr projectile using 48-50 grains of IMR4895..I also read that projectiles over 152 grains damage M1's
 
It is generally recommended to load between 147-173gr bullets for the M1 Garand or M14 using standard jacketed bullet loads.

A powder in the suitable burn rate range for the action of this type of semi auto gas rifle such as IMR 4895, H4895, AA 2495, BL C2, H335, Win 748, IMR 4064 (and there are others).


A good example would be the Sierra Matchking HPBT .308" 168gr with IMR 4895 or IMR 4064 powder.
 
hk33ka1 said:
It is generally recommended to load between 147-173gr bullets for the M1 Garand or M14 using standard jacketed bullet loads.

A powder in the suitable burn rate range for the action of this type of semi auto gas rifle such as IMR 4895, H4895, AA 2495, BL C2, H335, Win 748, IMR 4064 (and there are others).


A good example would be the Sierra Matchking HPBT .308" 168gr with IMR 4895 or IMR 4064 powder.
Click to expand...

member "purple" is a wealth of info.

I believe it is 4350 is about as slow as you want to go.
 
Some really fun and easy shooting loads can be had onthe cheap with cast bullets and slow powders. Accurate, easy on the shoulder, cost efficient (lol), soft on the rifle and just plain funnn.
 
My Garand's love IMR3031 right around the 45-47 grn mark for 150 grn FMJ bullets. They eject about the 2 o'clock position and never fail to feed or eject.

Send me your email address and I will forward a 1985 American Rifleman Article where they go in depth into all the powders that can be used and for which bullet weights.
 
I'm not aware of any need to avoid Winchester primers in these rifles.

Federal is the brand that usually gets the bad rap for soft primers. I and many others have fired thousands of WLR and WLRM Win primers in these actions with no issue. There are others who feel only CCI Milspec or Tula etc work safely, but normal American primer types have worked for decades.

As with any primer in any round seating the primer completely is a must.
 
hk33ka1 said:
I'm not aware of any need to avoid Winchester primers in these rifles.

Federal is the brand that usually gets the bad rap for soft primers. I and many others have fired thousands of WLR and WLRM Win primers in these actions with no issue. There are others who feel only CCI Milspec or Tula etc work safely, but normal American primer types have worked for decades.

As with any primer in any round seating the primer completely is a must.
Click to expand...

that was my mistake, you are correct.
 
So to recap the important notes for reloading 30-06 for a garand, is :
Seating primer fully
Using a medium/light weight bullet
If possible find a 'hard' primer
Medium burning powder
an adjustable gas plug
And Watch my case length

I have been reloading for bolt actions and my semi-auto pistols but this is my first semi-auto service rifle. So I do understand reloading, but from what I take reloading for these garands is not a task to take lightly.

Thanks for the help.
Ryan
 
ryan9991 said:
So to recap the important notes for reloading 30-06 for a garand, is :
Seating primer fully
Using a medium/light weight bullet
If possible find a 'hard' primer
Medium burning powder
an adjustable gas plug
And Watch my case length

I have been reloading for bolt actions and my semi-auto pistols but this is my first semi-auto service rifle. So I do understand reloading, but from what I take reloading for these garands is not a task to take lightly.

Thanks for the help.
Ryan
Click to expand...

The adjustable gas plug is only if you plan on shooting commercial ammo or loading up to max 30-06 pressure levels. The rest seems reasonable to me.

One thing not mentioned is that the Garand beats the crap out of brass. Carefully inspect used brass for damage/splits/head separations every time you load it. I seldom get more than 5-6 loads before it is time to toss and start fresh.


Mark
 
I also agree with the last post.

Using proper ammo M2 surplus or properly reloaded for Garand you don't need the adjustable gas plug.

Also your brass will not last as long and you need to be more careful inspecting it than if you were shooting .30-06 in say a Sako bolt action.

Also I'm sure someone else mention you should Full Length size cases and NOT neck size for these rifles.
 
You do not want to replace a bent/damaged op rod which can cost in the vicinity of $150 nowadays.

A summary of points on reloading for the Garand based on several thousand safe and accurate reloaded rounds;

-only use 150-168gr bullets
-only use IMR4064/IMR4895/H4895 powder. In addition to generating the correct pressure pulse for the gas system, these propellants also provide excellent accuracy. There is no need to explore any others.
-always FL resize and don't try for more than 5 firing cycles on brass
-keep brass trimmed below max
-seat primers below flush with the casehead to avoid the possibility of an out of battery detonation caused by the boltface making contact with a high primer when chambering a round
- the best primer is a CCI #34, but both a Winchester and Rem LR also work well
 
The gas plug wont hurt at all. But is not needed with proper ammo. And does not offer any extra protection with proper ammo. People just use it for abnormal to Garand ammo types.
 
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