Reloading for AR
- Thread starter drslav
- Start date
redshooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Central Ontario
Why load even close to max for an AR? Unless your going for max range it serves no purpose and just stresses the rifle. It's not a bolt gun that you can feed max loads all day and not worry about breaking something. Hammer your AR just for the hell of it and you'll shorten the life of parts for no good reason.
Unless your shooting from the 600 yd line at Yankee range load 55 gr bullets you can buy in bulk to the lightest load you can get to function reliably (V-Max/Z-Max are accurate, cheap, and you can find them in 250/500 packs). If your not happy with the accuracy at that point then work it up till you hit the next node which should still leave you comfortably under max.
Unless your shooting from the 600 yd line at Yankee range load 55 gr bullets you can buy in bulk to the lightest load you can get to function reliably (V-Max/Z-Max are accurate, cheap, and you can find them in 250/500 packs). If your not happy with the accuracy at that point then work it up till you hit the next node which should still leave you comfortably under max.
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FirearmsEnthusiast
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Kingston, ON
I use RCBS small base dies, and am considering getting the Lee factory crimp die - one of the previous posters nailed the issue of inconsistent crimp from the seating die from mixed range pick brass which can vary considerably in case length.
I use Benchmark with 55gr Hornady FMJ cannelured projectiles and CCI BR-4 primers to minimize slamfire risk with their thicker primer cups.
I also use Varget with 75 grainers at longer ranges with my 20 inch, 1 in 8 twist AR barrel. Your mileage may vary.
I use Benchmark with 55gr Hornady FMJ cannelured projectiles and CCI BR-4 primers to minimize slamfire risk with their thicker primer cups.
I also use Varget with 75 grainers at longer ranges with my 20 inch, 1 in 8 twist AR barrel. Your mileage may vary.
1st reason is because I want to duplicate the trajectory, recoil, and feel, of M193 ball ammunition. I dont think M193 is particularly hard on rifles, and the load I mentioned is still well under that pressure level.
2nd I found it more accurate than the other ladder loads I tried.
3d I have more than just an AR and it is a perfect flat-shooting, powerful varminting load in my other .223
If you want to load low thats you prerogative, but I like to load accurate, powerful and deadly ammunition, even if I am just tagging plates with it
Also many bolt-guns would not be well suited for over-max loads, the 5.56 or Wylde chambers have long throats which reduce pressures enabling the use of 5.56 loads
rather than common hunting .223 loads.
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KODIAK BEAR
Regular
- Location
- West of the Rockies, on an island.
Same here, good enough for me.
mississaugagunnut
Regular
- Location
- mississauga
I'm about ready to start loading my first attempts at 223. I have been using the cheap Norc 223 for years but it's accuracy is poor. I know my JP upper can do better so that's why I want to start reloading 223.
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I am going to be using Win 748, because it meters well (so I read on the internet) and it's all I could find. I will try both 55g fmjbt and 62g fmjbt with CCI small rifle primers.
I have already resized and decapped 300 pieces of brass on my XL 650 and will set up another tool head for reloading.
I think I will preform a ladder test with the powder weight being the variable first.
I'll let you know how I make out.
I am going to be using Win 748, because it meters well (so I read on the internet) and it's all I could find. I will try both 55g fmjbt and 62g fmjbt with CCI small rifle primers.
I have already resized and decapped 300 pieces of brass on my XL 650 and will set up another tool head for reloading.
I think I will preform a ladder test with the powder weight being the variable first.
I'll let you know how I make out.
redshooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Central Ontario
W-748 is good stuff, I used it for the same reason as you stated, it throws consistently from my Lyman 55.
Gunnerlove
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vancouver Island
They settle down very quickly. Boat ails are about BC which helps maintain velocity and reduce wind drift. Flat based bullets more evenly direct the gas around the bullet as they exit the muzzle (transitional ballistics) so they suffer from less wobble than due boat tails.
I load 25.6 of H335 and push a 62 grain fmj to just over 3000fps to match SS109/C77 ball ammo drift and drop. It works in my rifles but your mileage may vary, and this load is the max according to Sierra.
- Location
- big sky country
Depends on the twist.
my 1/8 loves 24 gr varget under a 77 SMK. I never crimp.
With the 55 gr bullet I like 25 gr of H335 or Win 748.
my 1/8 loves 24 gr varget under a 77 SMK. I never crimp.
With the 55 gr bullet I like 25 gr of H335 or Win 748.
I see four pages of guys recommending what they do, which I guess is fine.
Obviously there is an almost infinate combination of loads you can use with varying amounts of bullets weights and types, primer and powder combinations.
You have to ask yourself what you are trying to accomplish - be it saving money on factory 55 grain bulk ammo, or if you are loading for another specific purpose like trying to wring more accuracy out of your rifle.
So it happens i have 4895. Thank you.
Trying to save money and have more consistent shooting ammo. I noticed in my 308 it made a huge difference. It went from 14 inch group at 100 to 6". I'm not a great shot but this helped a lot. It was iron sights norc M14
If you are trying for both: better accuracy than factory FMJ loaded ammunition and be cheaper, you are not going to save much if any money.
Your first consideration should be the bullet. Choosing one that is marketed and sold as a varmint or match bullet is pretty much necessary if your aim is better accuracy. Expect to pay 200$ and up for 1000 bullets. A very good short line bullet that won't break the bank is the Hornady a/vMax line up in 50/55/60 grains.
The next point is your brass and brass prep. Have a stash of brass of the same manufacture that you perform the same brass prep on throughout the load. If you plan on doing a lot of shooting, then several stashes of +1000 piece lots. Consider investing in better loading tools such as dedicated trimmers, annealers and match quality dies.
Speaking of dies, runout of the finished round counts a great deal in an AR, even if quite a few other loading prep steps (like segregating brass and bullets) are so-so. Match quality seating dies are worth their weight in gold in reducing runout, and invest in a runout gauge. Skip small base dies as they are not required, instead get a quality .223 drop in chamber checker gauge.
You won't see much if any gains with the primer type at 100m, but I still recommend going with a match - quality primer. I'ved them all to good effect, but tend toward Federal 205m.
Powder - there are literally dozens to try. Fact is 223 is so easy to load for, ten different powders or more will work exceptionally well with whatever you decide to team it up with. Get one or three with an optimal burn rate for the bullet (generally speaking the heavier the bullet, the slower rate of burn). Get one that will suit your load style (if you want to just dump the charge and go, ball powders tend to be the easiest to deal with in most powder throwers).
Try to buy powder in bulk so that you are dealing with one lot type over the span of a load, and try and settle on a powder you can readily purchase (very tough right now I hear).
Your first consideration should be the bullet. Choosing one that is marketed and sold as a varmint or match bullet is pretty much necessary if your aim is better accuracy. Expect to pay 200$ and up for 1000 bullets. A very good short line bullet that won't break the bank is the Hornady a/vMax line up in 50/55/60 grains.
The next point is your brass and brass prep. Have a stash of brass of the same manufacture that you perform the same brass prep on throughout the load. If you plan on doing a lot of shooting, then several stashes of +1000 piece lots. Consider investing in better loading tools such as dedicated trimmers, annealers and match quality dies.
Speaking of dies, runout of the finished round counts a great deal in an AR, even if quite a few other loading prep steps (like segregating brass and bullets) are so-so. Match quality seating dies are worth their weight in gold in reducing runout, and invest in a runout gauge. Skip small base dies as they are not required, instead get a quality .223 drop in chamber checker gauge.
You won't see much if any gains with the primer type at 100m, but I still recommend going with a match - quality primer. I'ved them all to good effect, but tend toward Federal 205m.
Powder - there are literally dozens to try. Fact is 223 is so easy to load for, ten different powders or more will work exceptionally well with whatever you decide to team it up with. Get one or three with an optimal burn rate for the bullet (generally speaking the heavier the bullet, the slower rate of burn). Get one that will suit your load style (if you want to just dump the charge and go, ball powders tend to be the easiest to deal with in most powder throwers).
Try to buy powder in bulk so that you are dealing with one lot type over the span of a load, and try and settle on a powder you can readily purchase (very tough right now I hear).
Depending on how tight your chamber is or isn't, you may need a small base sizing die to have reliable feeding. Not always needed depending on the rifle, but if you are getting issues with it failing to go into battery, something to look at. if you pound through a lot of loads without cleaning, a small base sizer helps to keep rifle functioning.
1/9 twist is good, will work well with all but the heaviest bullets available in .224, which work better with 1/7 twist.
Best load I have ever had for any .223 be it bolt or semi auto is 20.0 gr's IMR 4198, 53 grain sierra bullet, fed 205 primers. Mild load, but stupid accurate.
1/9 twist is good, will work well with all but the heaviest bullets available in .224, which work better with 1/7 twist.
Best load I have ever had for any .223 be it bolt or semi auto is 20.0 gr's IMR 4198, 53 grain sierra bullet, fed 205 primers. Mild load, but stupid accurate.
Winchester primers would usually be an excellent choice for loading. Some recent lots have had QC issues.
I have a number of ARs that I load for. I load 10 rounds of my powder/bullet combo in 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 ,25, and 26 gr and shoot 10 shot groups off a bench at 100 yards. let the barrel cool a bit between groups. While the barrel is cooling, look at the brass,watching for pressure signs. make notes about how the ammo feeds and ejects. 20 might be too mild for proper cycling.
You will probably find that one load seems better than the others. In my rifle it is 23 gr, a fairly mild load. But it is easy on the rifle and 1.5" with the cheap Hornady 55 gr FMJ.
I have used H335, BLC2, Win748 and 4895. I prefer the ball powders because the meter best, but they don't always work well with light loads. I found they had to have a good crimp.
I have a number of ARs that I load for. I load 10 rounds of my powder/bullet combo in 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 ,25, and 26 gr and shoot 10 shot groups off a bench at 100 yards. let the barrel cool a bit between groups. While the barrel is cooling, look at the brass,watching for pressure signs. make notes about how the ammo feeds and ejects. 20 might be too mild for proper cycling.
You will probably find that one load seems better than the others. In my rifle it is 23 gr, a fairly mild load. But it is easy on the rifle and 1.5" with the cheap Hornady 55 gr FMJ.
I have used H335, BLC2, Win748 and 4895. I prefer the ball powders because the meter best, but they don't always work well with light loads. I found they had to have a good crimp.
