reloading for newbies

[djmay71]

My current escapade in pricing ammo made me suddenly realize how expensive the fun ammo really is- which got me thinking of getting into reloading.

A few questions though:
1) On a scale of one to ten, ten being very, extremely difficult, how difficult is reloading? I always gave reloading a wide berth, just because I figured "it has to be difficult."

2) Is reloading components expensive? I mean, seriously, you need to have powders, primers, casings, dies, presses- is it actually worth it?

3) How much space does reloading equipment take? I know you need to have a bench mounted press...which is kinda a problem, seeing as the "bedroom" that my stuff is in, is cramped to begin with. What about storage laws on powders and primers?

I'm sure there's a thread around here somewhere on this, but I'd like to hear opinions and thoughts on my specific case, not just a generalization or from another reloading newbie.

 

[Ryan500]

1) On a scale of one to ten, ten being very, extremely difficult, how difficult is reloading? I always gave reloading a wide berth, just because I figured "it has to be difficult."

2) Is reloading components expensive? I mean, seriously, you need to have powders, primers, casings, dies, presses- is it actually worth it?

3) How much space does reloading equipment take? I know you need to have a bench mounted press...which is kinda a problem, seeing as the "bedroom" that my stuff is in, is cramped to begin with. What about storage laws on powders and primers?

Well I was a noob not to long ago myself, infact I may still be! Anyway I don't know if you could put a number on it as it can be quite simple, on a single stage. Then the skys the limit on other presses and other tools to get more percise loads.

I started with the Lee Anniversary kit, added a vernier caliper, powder trickler and manual and I was off to the races. I payed about 300 bucks for everything, including components to pump out about 200 rounds. I had brass already so yeah it's worth it. If you don't keep upgrading your press and tools all the time you will save money over factory ammo, plus it shoots better!

A quick break down on the price for me for 100 rounds of .308.

100 Brass (I have)
100 Bullets $51 for 155 gr Palmas
1 lbs of Varget $29** $20
1 box of CCi-BR2 Primers $6

**That varget will get me about 150 rounds I think so call it $20 in powder.

Looks like $77/100 when I buy low volumes and pay shipping, bulk is better.

Cramped on space? Me too,

This is my under the stairs setup, bench is only 2'x2' as long as it's solid your good to go, although bigger is always better.

Storage laws are in here in lots of threads, no big deal.

Get into it, it's worth it. Just read lots and take your time.

 

[hoochie]

the space it would take a beginning reloader would prolly take up less space than a printer on your desk. For a single stage press.. its only a few inches wide.

is it hard you ask?
It requires being able to read, and measure. you have to understand how to use a scale and a caliper, and follow the instructions for case prep etc.
Its not hard for most people, and I have only known of one person who stopped doing it ( and thats cause he royally screwed things up from not reading instructions!!)

dont be afraid to try it. ask someone who lives near you to show you what itsa ll about and decide after seeing it done.

 

[mmattockx]

My current escapade in pricing ammo made me suddenly realize how expensive the fun ammo really is- which got me thinking of getting into reloading.

A few questions though:
1) On a scale of one to ten, ten being very, extremely difficult, how difficult is reloading? I always gave reloading a wide berth, just because I figured "it has to be difficult."

2) Is reloading components expensive? I mean, seriously, you need to have powders, primers, casings, dies, presses- is it actually worth it?

3) How much space does reloading equipment take? I know you need to have a bench mounted press...which is kinda a problem, seeing as the "bedroom" that my stuff is in, is cramped to begin with. What about storage laws on powders and primers?

I'm sure there's a thread around here somewhere on this, but I'd like to hear opinions and thoughts on my specific case, not just a generalization or from another reloading newbie.

OP, there are lots of threads about the various aspects of this. Just scroll down a page or two and/or search on "newbie".

1) I would give it a 3 maybe. It helps a lot if you can have someone demonstrate the process to you, but it is not complicated nor technically challenging at all. You need to be organized, methodical and keep your attention on what you are doing, nothing more. There is certainly no particular talent, training or experience required.

2) It takes an up front investment in components and equipment to get started, but your actual cost to reload is typically half or less per round of centerfire rifle ammo compared to commercial. If you start loading premium ammo for big magnum calibres your cost will be well under half of commercial. For the .308 you were asking about in another thread your cost to load quality ammo would be around $0.50-$0.60/round. I think .223 will run $0.25-$0.30/round, but I don't reload for that myself.

3) You can reload using a single stage press with nothing more than a Black & Decker workmate as your bench and a small table to hold your scale and accessories. If you search on "bench" in this forum a number of threads will come up with compact/portable/collapsible benches in them that are used in limited space situations. You can also make a portable press mount that you simply clamp down to your kitchen table when you load, then unclamp and put away when not in use.

Powder and primers are required to be locked up separately, but you can store primers with your ammo with no problem. The firearms act has none of this in it, it is the NRCAN explosives regs that govern storage and use of powder and primers.


Mark

 

[ATOM]

1) On a scale of one to ten, ten being very, extremely difficult, how difficult is reloading? I always gave reloading a wide berth, just because I figured "it has to be difficult."

About a 3 or 4. Producing match-quality ammo is of course harder, but the basic procedure is simple enough and can be taken step by step with a manual beside you.

There's always a caveat to something like that, of course. You need to pay attention to what you are doing! If you do something stupid, it can have severe consequences. It's never happened to me, nor to anybody I personally know, but it has happened to the careless, the lazy and the 'I'm-too-cool-to-be-bothered-checking'. Pay attention, stick to reliable recipes from known sources and it's perfectly safe.

2) Is reloading components expensive? I mean, seriously, you need to have powders, primers, casings, dies, presses- is it actually worth it?

OK, the most expensive component is generally the brass and (St Barbara being good to us shooters) it's the brass that you reuse. So the bullets, the propellant and the primers are going to cost. How much? My figures show that I'm paying maybe 40% the cost of comparable commercial ammo. Now, that's not entirely accurate, because you're paying with your time, which is generally considered worth something and you have to buy the gear to start off with.

The basement-level setup is a Lee Loader, which you can get in most common calibres for under $50 complete, and a hammer. It's a bit more limited in what you can produce and it takes a lot more effort, but Lee Loaders have been producing very good ammo for decades.

Most people move on to a press, with dies, scales, a powder thrower and so forth. Figure maybe $400 at a very minimum for that sort of setup (the sky's the limit and reloaders are bigger gear whores than fishermen). So you need to factor in the cost of the kit. Obviously, the more you reload, the less your 'overhead' becomes. I've been reloading since Genghis Khan was a corporal, so I no longer even consider that.

3) How much space does reloading equipment take? I know you need to have a bench mounted press...which is kinda a problem, seeing as the "bedroom" that my stuff is in, is cramped to begin with. What about storage laws on powders and primers?

There's a sticky on storage laws which you need to read. Cole's Notes is that you need a locked box with the word 'Explosives' written on the outside.

As to the bench, most people wind up with a pretty solid, purpose-built bench with the press and such permanently bolted to it. My first one, which did me for years, was not much bigger than 2' x 2'; I've since upgraded to a bigger one. Other guys have ones the size of a department store display counter. Some, with little space, have figured out ways to use a fold-up Workmate bench or even mount the stuff temporarily on a kitchen counter. Look around; there are a lot of photos of setups - large and small.

Welcome to the dark side.

==================

Ryan500 - Excellent setup! Very clever.

 

[Ryan500]

Ryan500 - Excellent setup! Very clever.

Thanks bud!

 

[caramel]

Take your time, informe yourself if you are not sure,and get a few late edition reloading books they are handy when you in to it... JP.

 

[HKMark23]

What calibers do you shoot ?

If you're considering this solely as a cost saving measure, and there are better reasons, you may be going to a great deal of trouble and save no money.

Check out the professional reloader sites like SFRC above. You can buy cheaper reloaded ammo from these guys then sell your empty brass back to them. This is financially akin to reloading without the outlay for gear or the time and work.

If you're reloading common (.223, 9mm, 45 ACP ), and relatively cheap to buy cartridges, you're gonna struggle to justify the outlay for gear necessary to assemble the same rounds you'll pay for as components rather than already assembled. This is hardest to justify when compared to reloaded ammo like I mentioned above.

The "rose colored glasses" reloaders will now post their rebuttals, as is customary, but if all you wanna do is try to save a $ or two by reloading 5000 rds of 9 a year, you'll want to check the numbers on your particular costs very carefully.

 

[deadeyes40]

i started reloading for my 222.the press,scale,powder measure was free from father-in-law.cost 30 bucks for a set of lee dies.had 140 brass(once fired )from same rifle.pound of powder 30-35 bucks(loads about 250-300 rounds),primers 4-5 bucks/100 depending on where i get them.50 grain v-max bullets 25 bucks/100.still figures out about 40-50% of buying factory ammo.if you are getting into reloading hoping to save money,you will not.you will just shoot more for the same cost.

 

[Kc.338Lp]

I was in the same boat , i have been thinking about reloading for the past 8 months but i wasnt sure if i wanted to buy it all new so i kept an eye out on the EE . i had tons of fired brass from range visits and personal shooting that i just stashed away .. a few months later when i made up my mind i bought a used set of FL 308 RCBS dies , then 40sw carbide dies eventually picked up a lee breech lock for 50$ which was a steal . The other odds and ends i ordered from Msg.drew and the EE such as shell holders , case gauges , and then powder and primers from SFRC ..

Got my reloading book (very important i found) and reloading turned out not to be as intimidating as i thought it would be .. i just take my time , dont reload when i am tired and cant concentrate and make sure to have plenty of light and double check my charges / cases once in a while .

Most importantly Im not a volume shooter , i chose reloading to try and get the most out of my m14 and i cant always make it to SFRC to buy factory ammunition and second because it looked interesting and fun . which is why i went single stage . YMMV.

total cost .
Breech lock lee press 50 $
308 dies 25$ shipped
40sw dies 20$ shipped
40sw shell holder (came with dies)
308 shell holder (5$ shipped)
case length gauge , cutter and lockstud , ball grip , chamfer tool approx 40$ shipped
case lube (free from friend)
Primers Large rifle 1000 CT for 34.95
Primers small pistol 26.95 for 1000 CT
Bullseye 1lb 29.95
Varget 1 lb 34.95
168 grain HPBT Hornady 35.00 x 2
180 grain 40sw Hornady 16.99
180 grain 40sw Lead 45.99 500 CT
Lyman reloading manual 29.95 49th Edition .
Scale (pick your brand) i circumvented my own using a digi scale and measuring spoons

I also have kept the hard plastic inserts for cartridges from factory ammo and use them for loading blocks and storing my reloaded ammunition . Only thing i havnt found are factory boxes.

 

[ATOM]

HKMark23 - No argument whatever about there being other options.

No argument either that sometimes there are better options, especially in a few very-popular cartridges.

Still, reloading can save a lot of money, especially if the round in question is not a super-popular one like 9mm or 5.56 NATO.

Equally important, it can allow you to tailor a load for your rifle or pistol that no commercial firm can generally match. (I remember the awe with when I saw my first 'ragged hole' target from ammo I had reloaded - quite a thrill!)

Is it the only answer? Of course not. But that doesn't mean that it should be immediately written off.

 

[bobjoe]

I started to reload to save money. After I started I then shot 4 times as much. So in a way I still save money but I ended up shooting more. Which I think is better.

I never thought that I would fire 500+ rounds of 338 win mag a year. A box using match bullets costs me about $30 as oppose to 80 or more a box.

 

[HKMark23]

HKMark23 - No argument whatever about there being other options.

No argument either that sometimes there are better options, especially in a few very-popular cartridges.

Still, reloading can save a lot of money, especially if the round in question is not a super-popular one like 9mm or 5.56 NATO.

Equally important, it can allow you to tailor a load for your rifle or pistol that no commercial firm can generally match. (I remember the awe with when I saw my first 'ragged hole' target from ammo I had reloaded - quite a thrill!)

Is it the only answer? Of course not. But that doesn't mean that it should be immediately written off.

Yep. I reload .338 LM and save nearly $4.00 per round. Also, if you reload for stuff like this, then it naturally makes sense to pick up a few dies for anything else you shoot. I get all that too.

I was taking the narrow view to illustrate that saving $ on ammo, especially worthwhile $, isn't a slam dunk just because you decide to assemble it yourself. So very often new guys & would be Reloaders ask the "can I save $$" question in the simplest of terms and are, with the best of intentions no doubt, mislead.

The verniers, stuck case removers, bullet pullers, FC dies etc, etc, all add up pretty quick too. A new guy who is told get a "Lee starter kit and away you go", is probably in for a little surprise as the slippery slope begins at the edge of the box the press comes in. Anyhow, thats all I wanted to address, in fairness to the OP. I Love to reload, as we all do. It adds a whole new and very interesting dynamic to the sport.

 

[r106]

It's easy to do as long as you can read and follow direction.

For my hunting rifles the bullet is the most expensive component. barnes tsx or nosler accubonds are .80 - .90 cents per bullet plus brass, powder and primer

I'm loading my .223 with match grade ammo for $.52 a round and thats including brass based on 6 reloads out of each brass. I'm also loading for 30-06 with a barnes tsx for around $1.25 per round brass included. I also have a target load for around $.65 per round brass included. But where reloading really starts to shine for me is with my .325 WSM. Factory ammo with a nosler accubond is 65-75$ for 20 rounds and i'm reloading it for less than 30$ for 20 rounds with the accubond bullet

 

[floriosean1]

a box of 357 magnum is about 30$ plus tax and its what i like to shoot in my revolver, so thats more then 600$ for a 1000 rounds, i bought a progressive lee press, tumbler, digital scale, dies, a full set up for 450$ and i was able to produce 1000 rounds of full load 357 magnum for just under 150$ so basically in my first batch i broke even

i also load 9mm, 7.62x25mm, 38 special, 44-40, and 444 marlin, i would say i've saved hundreds maybe even into the thousands in the year and a half i've been loading

is it hard? its a lot to take in at once but with a good manual, and a buddy near by to explain things its probably a 3 on the scale of 1 to ten for hardness

 

[Rory McCanuck]

I don't want to sound trite, but get a book.
ABCs of Reloading, Lee's Modern Reloading, Hornady 8th ed. are what I have.
Lyman's book is usually recommended for its introduction to reloading.
All of these describe the process simply, and in detail.

Once you understand the process, THEN decide what equipment to get.
$35 and a hammer (plus components) can get you started.
You don't have to spend $1500 on Dillon stuff, but I don't recall
reading or hearing of anyone regretting buying Dillon.

Don't start flaming me guys, but a Lee Hand Press kit will get you going,
and fit in a shoe box under your bed. A decent scale and a set of calipers will
fit in there too, for about $100.

Even if you find its not for you, there's always the EE

 

[ATOM]

I don't want to sound trite, but get a book.
ABCs of Reloading, Lee's Modern Reloading, Hornady 8th ed. are what I have.
Lyman's book is usually recommended for its introduction to reloading.
All of these describe the process simply, and in detail.

Once you understand the process, THEN decide what equipment to get.
$35 and a hammer (plus components) can get you started.
You don't have to spend $1500 on Dillon stuff, but I don't recall
reading or hearing of anyone regretting buying Dillon.

Don't start flaming me guys, but a Lee Hand Press kit will get you going,
and fit in a shoe box under your bed. A decent scale and a set of calipers will
fit in there too, for about $100.

Even if you find its not for you, there's always the EE

Agreed 100%.

 

[djmay71]

Question: Does Lee, or another company make a press model thats meant to be taken off its bench and/or table without modification....because I just happen to have a small desk in my "man-cave"

 

[IMagius]

My current escapade in pricing ammo made me suddenly realize how expensive the fun ammo really is- which got me thinking of getting into reloading.

I completely ignored the "cost factor" when it came to wanting to reload ... I started reloading because that's what my uncle did, and I'd heard many stories from him about this load, that load, and all the test loads in between until he found the "perfect" load for each rifle. That alone, the idea of being able to customize my ammo to fit my gun, was enough for me.

The long term cost savings were just a bonus. For the more common rounds, like 9mm, 223, 38, etc.. you will probably NOT save any noticable amount of money in the first year if you account for the hardware and supplies during initial setup. If you ignore the cost of the hardware (guages, press, books/manuals) and of course your TIME spent reloading, then yes, you will save money.

A few questions though:
1) On a scale of one to ten, ten being very, extremely difficult, how difficult is reloading? I always gave reloading a wide berth, just because I figured "it has to be difficult."

3 at the most if you are literate and have any sort of attention span and can follow simple directions.

Remove spent primer
clean brass
size brass - double check measurements
insert primer
measure powder - quality control checks every so often
insert bullet - double check measurements
Done.

Initial set up of your dies requires a few other steps, but really, that's all there is to reloading.

2) Is reloading components expensive? I mean, seriously, you need to have powders, primers, casings, dies, presses- is it actually worth it?

Worth it? For the pure joy of reloading? Yes.
The components (primers, brass, powder, bullets) are cheaper than buying Factory Ammo. Your Time is only something you can put a price on.
A simple single stage press is all a person really needs. Don't start with a multi-stage monstrosity - Yes, they can produce more rounds faster, butthey are also much trickeir to set up and IMHO require a certtain level of experience before aperson should try them.

3) How much space does reloading equipment take? I know you need to have a bench mounted press...which is kinda a problem, seeing as the "bedroom" that my stuff is in, is cramped to begin with. What about storage laws on powders and primers?

Storage: Locked Metal box (a tool box with the appropriate labeling) is all I believe is required.
Space: If you don't mind a few minutes "rebolting" equipment to your "bench" then a collapsable workmate will suffice, which requires almsot no storage space and can be used anywhere you want to stand or in front of any chair.

I'm sure there's a thread around here somewhere on this, but I'd like to hear opinions and thoughts on my specific case, not just a generalization or from another reloading newbie.

I'm still using an old Bonanza single stage press my Uncle gave me 20 years ago. Yes, the new shiny presses look great, but I simply can't see a good reason to "upgrade" ... what I have works great for me. If you do choose to try reloading, do your research on warranty's ... if you make the right choices, most fo your equipment will last you for many years. Digital Scales are fancy and easy to read, but I'm still happy using an old balance beam scale that is accurate to 1/10'th of a grain.

 

[stevebc]

Question: Does Lee, or another company make a press model thats meant to be taken off its bench and/or table without modification....because I just happen to have a small desk in my "man-cave"

My reloading bench is also my old oak veneer office desk from my worksite. Since I don't want to drill holes in this, I use 3 large C clamps to fasten it to the corner of the desk. Works like a hot damn, and I put it away in one of the desk drawers when not in use.