Reloading for Revolvers vs Semi-Auto Handguns

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VanMan

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I have reloaded for my semi-auto handguns for a couple of years now (mostly 9mm), and will soon start reloading for my revolvers (S&W 929, S&W 610, S&W 625). I was wondering if there was anything specific to revolvers I should take in to consideration?

  1. Should I go with a faster burning powder to maximize the burn in the cylinder and minimize pressure loss through the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone?
  2. I've seen mention of flame cutting / erosion of the top strap caused by the hot gasses escaping between the cylinder and forcing cone. Does a faster or slower burning powder reduce this?
  3. Have already stocked up on federal pistol primers
  4. I will be using roll crimp and "factory" crimp dies to minimize bullet creep
  5. Is there anything else I need to take into consideration?
I currently have the following powders: Titegroup, VV N320, HS6 and Longshot, and have already looked up recipes for each powder/projectile. Mainly I will be reloading for IPSC so making power factor is just as important as accuracy. Would appreciate any input before I pick a powder and start working up loads.
 
I wouldn't load any differently for semi calibers to be used in a revolver. I would not roll crimp those either. Not necessary, and they were not designed to be roll crimped. Factory taper crimp holds them just fine. Flame cutting apparently happens with light bullets using hot burning powders.
 
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I'm in the same boat as OP. 357 Magnum reloading will happen soon but I just checked my dies. RCBS is a taper crimp. Redding is a profile crimp. Website says "Profile crimp dies provide a tighter more uniform roll type crimp and require the bullet to be seated to the correct depth in a previous operation."

Can I assume the Redding is simply roll?
 
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I only reload .38 special,.357 magnum, and .45LC for my revolvers and lever actions.

For .38 and .45LC, I use Titegroup. Excellent results and am very happy. I've tried HS6, Longshot, and HP38/Win 231 but I keep coming back to TG. YMMV.

For .357, I ONLY use H110. It's a magnum so I use a magnum powder. I suppose I could use TG as well, but since I have several pounds of H110/Win 296, I don't bother.

Seat to the correct OAL and put a firm roll crimp on them and you're GTG.
 
In my mind a roll crimp is prudent when the bullet has a crimping groove you call roll the case mouth into. Bullets without one, such as plated Berry bullets, require a taper crimp as a roll crimp would bite into the plating. Same for jacketed bullets without a crimping groove.

I have both a taper and roll crimp die in RCBS for my 586. The die will have a TC on it if it's a taper crimp. No markings then it's a roll crimp. I recently bought a Redding profile crimp die for my 44 Special and it's a nice die. I needed a separate crimp anyway and decided to test the profile crimp die from Redding.

Bullet crimp is not meant to hold bullet in place. Neck tension is supposed to do that job. In semi autos where the case head spaces off the mouth, the crimp die is supposed to be set to just remove the bell or flare. It's not adjusted for a hard crimp into the bullet jacket to prevent the bullet from creeping. Same thing would apply to revolvers chambered in cartridges that head space off the case mouth.
 
Smcx said:
I wouldn't load any differently for semi calibers to be used in a revolver. I would not roll crimp those either. Not necessary, and they were not designed to be roll crimped. Factory taper crimp holds them just fine. Flame cutting apparently happens with light bullets using hot burning powders.
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Thanks for the tip regarding flame cutting Smcx, I looked up a few articles on that and heavier bullet's do seem to be the way to go. I prefer 147gr for my 9mm practice and match ammo anyhow so this is great :)

I forgot to mention I chrono'd some batches of factory, commercially reloaded, and my own reloads shot through my Grand Power X-Calibur and my S&W 929 and noticed a significant difference in speed and resulting power factor. My reloads that made a healthy 133pf in my X-Calibur were only making 126pf in my 929 - with 6 rounds failing. So I will have to work up a separate load if I run my 929 in an IPSC or USPSA match. For revolver ammo, was planning on switching over to Berry's anyhow because they are a rounded profile whereas the Campro 147gr are slightly flattened.

View attachment 60443

I'll be using the RCBC factory crimp dies for reloading with plated projectiles, and was thinking about using a roll crimp die for 230gr lead projectiles because they have a canelure. I had been using Dillon dies to reload 9mm ammo, and I did notice some bullet creep in the 8th round after firing off 7 rounds in that moon clip. Didn't have a vernier with me but looked to be ~1/8". Definitely want a good crimp when I start reloading 40S&W and 45acp as my friend has had a round come apart when shooting his S&W 625.
 
The only consideration I take into account when loading for a revolver is the bullet type. Jacketed or cast. I adjust the powder charge for cast bullets to reduce leading. I believe there is a relationship between chamber pressure and the compressive strength or hardness of the cast bullet. When that perfect balance is found you've got yourself a great cast bullet load. For most people the way of finding that is by loading to a certain velocity.

Another note of caution would be not to reduce the powder charge too low with slow burning powders. The larger the caliber the more caution should be taken. However, you're loading to meet power factor so it won't be an issue.

Of course this is only my opinion based on personal experience and it doesn't mean sh!t to anyone else.
 
Thanks for the input hend238, always good to hear from someone with experience :) I've seen some of the Open guys crimp right through the plating on their reloads so their bullets were making keyholes in their targets lol.

hend238 said:
In my mind a roll crimp is prudent when the bullet has a crimping groove you call roll the case mouth into. Bullets without one, such as plated Berry bullets, require a taper crimp as a roll crimp would bite into the plating. Same for jacketed bullets without a crimping groove.

I have both a taper and roll crimp die in RCBS for my 586. The die will have a TC on it if it's a taper crimp. No markings then it's a roll crimp. I recently bought a Redding profile crimp die for my 44 Special and it's a nice die. I needed a separate crimp anyway and decided to test the profile crimp die from Redding.

Bullet crimp is not meant to hold bullet in place. Neck tension is supposed to do that job. In semi autos where the case head spaces off the mouth, the crimp die is supposed to be set to just remove the bell or flare. It's not adjusted for a hard crimp into the bullet jacket to prevent the bullet from creeping. Same thing would apply to revolvers chambered in cartridges that head space off the case mouth.
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A pistol caliber bullet sould not set back, or come apart with a proper taper crimp and when loaded within spec pressures. Shooting it in a revolver does not make it recoil harder. The only difference when loading those calibers is that you're not limited to an oal for proper feeding. Honestly, you don't want to mix roll crimped stuff and shoot it in semi's. Semi's headspace on the non roll crimped case mouth. Check out 45 super and 45 rowland. Both are going to recoil more than your hot 10mm loads. Both use a taper crimp (as does .40 and nuclear 1350 fps 200gr 10mm). I taper crimp my 45 super and do not get setback with loads that feel like a 44 magnum.
 
Thanks Smcx, just read up on 45 super and that could be a very interesting hot load. Think I'll save that one for my Ruger 45 convertible though lol.

Regarding the bullet creep, I have been told the difference is that in a revolver the rounds in the cylinder receive more direct recoil force to the brass than rounds in the mag of a semiauto that are relatively free to move back and forth. I never thought to check the COL of the 10th round after firing 9 rounds through my semi-auto, but I did notice a definite change in COL in the 8th round after firing 7 rounds through my 929.

That batch of reloads was done with Dillon dies setup for my semi-autos, so the crimp was not set very tight. I intend to setup a separate tool head on my XL 650 to reload 9mm for revolver. I'll be doing .40S&W and 45acp on a 550 just because changing over calibers is much simpler with no Mr Bullit feeder or case feeder, and my volumes will be much lower.

Smcx said:
A pistol caliber bullet sould not set back, or come apart with a proper taper crimp and when loaded within spec pressures. Shooting it in a revolver does not make it recoil harder. The only difference when loading those calibers is that you're not limited to an oal for proper feeding. Honestly, you don't want to mix roll crimped stuff and shoot it in semi's. Semi's headspace on the non roll crimped case mouth. Check out 45 super and 45 rowland. Both are going to recoil more than your hot 10mm loads. Both use a taper crimp (as does .40 and nuclear 1350 fps 200gr 10mm). I taper crimp my 45 super and do not get setback with loads that feel like a 44 magnum.
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got out to the range today and ran some of my standard (reloaded for semi-auto) rounds through my 929.

Here's a moonclip where I shot 7 rounds. The 8th round COL is now 1.145" instead of the 1.100" I reload to.
View attachment 60517

The bullet creep is pretty noticeable as you can see where the original crimp was
View attachment 60518

I tried one moonclip where I only fired off 5 rounds. Rounds 6, 7 and 8 measured 1.130", 1.122" and 1.126" respectively.
View attachment 60519

These reloads were done using Dillon dies and barely making 125pf. I'll be setting up RCBS factory crimp dies when I reload revolver specific rounds so I should be able eliminate this bullet creep when I reload up to 132pf.

I'll be reloading .40S&W and 45acp to at least 175pf and the projectiles much heavier, so I would expect bullet creep to be even worse without a good tight crimp.
 
Well there you go. I was wrong lol. Most common in 9mm with heavy bullets loaded hot, and in lightweight guns. 9mm just isn't a caliber that you should hotrod in a revolver I guess. I was reading that you should use light bullets, and mild or warm loads. Still wouldn't roll crimp though. Also, better jacketed bullets will help. I've found that the campros are pretty soft lead and deform easily leading to less neck tension.
 
I think you will find that the .45 will absolutely need a roll crimp. A friend of mine found it the only way to keep his .45 from locking up from creep. He also uses auto rim brass.

Auggie D.
 
Those pictures look like far to much crimp to me. As previously mention neck tension should be holding the bullet. My father in law has a 929 and any reloads we have run thru it have not exhibited these problems. Taper crimp to remove the flair generally end up at .377 at the case mouth if IIRC. Also what kind of accuracy are you getting ? 929's can be a bit hit or miss due to production tolerances but this would not be causing you issues.
 
See answers below in red.

VanMan said:
I have reloaded for my semi-auto handguns for a couple of years now (mostly 9mm), and will soon start reloading for my revolvers (S&W 929, S&W 610, S&W 625). I was wondering if there was anything specific to revolvers I should take in to consideration?

  1. Should I go with a faster burning powder to maximize the burn in the cylinder and minimize pressure loss through the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone? I wouldn't worry about it.
  2. I've seen mention of flame cutting / erosion of the top strap caused by the hot gasses escaping between the cylinder and forcing cone. Does a faster or slower burning powder reduce this? Top strap erosion is a non-issue; it will only go so far and then limit itself.
  3. Have already stocked up on federal pistol primers
  4. I will be using roll crimp and "factory" crimp dies to minimize bullet creep I'm not sure you would find roll crimp dies for 9mm or 10mm. If you are using regular 9mm/10mm/.45 ACP bullets without a cannelure, you won't be able to apply a really heavy crimp anyway. I would start by loading these cartridges normally with a good taper crimp. If they shoot accurately and the bullets don't jump out enough to tie up the cylinder, they should be fine.
  5. Is there anything else I need to take into consideration?
I currently have the following powders: Titegroup, VV N320, HS6 and Longshot, and have already looked up recipes for each powder/projectile. Mainly I will be reloading for IPSC so making power factor is just as important as accuracy. Would appreciate any input before I pick a powder and start working up loads.
Click to expand...
 
Good catch flange. I just measured a couple of my reloads at .374", and measured some commercial reloads at .0378". For the dies I'll setup for my semi-auto's I'll run a batch with the crimp die backed off a bit.

I was getting ~3" groups of 10 shots at 10 yards with my Grand Power X-Calibur, and getting 2-3" groups with the 929. The big blocky sights on the 929 are great for target shooting, but I'll probably swap in a fibre optic front sight. My old eyes need all the help they can get lol

flange said:
Those pictures look like far to much crimp to me. As previously mention neck tension should be holding the bullet. My father in law has a 929 and any reloads we have run thru it have not exhibited these problems. Taper crimp to remove the flair generally end up at .377 at the case mouth if IIRC. Also what kind of accuracy are you getting ? 929's can be a bit hit or miss due to production tolerances but this would not be causing you issues.
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