Reloading - Here's The Plan (Is It Right??)

If your .223 brass is new just f/l resize to make sure they are dimensionally correct. If they are fired/range brass pick-ups, I would measure for max length. I just did 300 once fired range brass tonight and discovered 190 out of the 300 were already over length (some by as much as .015"). I've been told before that .223 brass is susceptible to exessive stretching, I believe it now.
 
If your .223 brass is new just f/l resize to make sure they are dimensionally correct. If they are fired/range brass pick-ups, I would measure for max length. I just did 300 once fired range brass tonight and discovered 190 out of the 300 were already over length (some by as much as .015"). I've been told before that .223 brass is susceptible to exessive stretching, I believe it now.

trouble is IMHO is that range brass has been fired from a variety of guns with a variety of chamber sizes. Couple that with (as a previous poster put it) el cheapo brass - you are going to get a lot of variation.

The most reliable ammo for feeding (of course) is factory ammo - other than that brass that has been fire-formed in your gun will give the most accurate results...
 
I currently have 252 pieces of Federal brass, all once fired in my own gun that I will be reloading for.

I have another 800 pieces of the same brass, but they still have factory rounds in them.
 
Since your going for accuracy with this rifle and loads I would consider only neck sizing the once fired brass from YOUR gun not full length. just my thoughts.
 
lots of good info on this thread, the only thing that I can add is as a general rule of thumb is when I select a powder, I look into the load data and start by choosing a powder which shows low pressure with decent velocity at max charge. this load is usually a slow burning powder for the caliber. the reason I do this is because slow burning powder has a more gradual pressure curve than fast burning powder. it is much easier on the brass and the rifle, and for some reason, usually has very good accuracy. start at minimum and work up in .2 of a grain, or if you are OCD like me .1 of a grain to find the most accurate load. I pay absolutely no attention to velocity, as finding an accurate load is the goal. load up 5 rounds for each increment and keep these rounds well marked, I usually put masking tape across the base of 5 rounds and print on the tape what the load is. when I am at the range, the tape gets transferred to the target after a string of 5 rounds. the downside of this technique is that the masking tape gets difficult to remove if it stays on for a long time.(don't ask how I found this out) keep a watchful eye on pressure signs.
 
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