Reloading?? Is it worth it?

Do it. If you watch for good prices on components you'll pay off your entry level equipment in the first year. The only problem is that you'll shoot more and want to add or upgrade reloading equipment over time... So you probably won't end up having any more money in your bank account.

I reload mostly 308 and it's not the biggest savings, but I save about $1 per round which makes it worth the time for me. There's a lot more savings in bigger cartridges and less common ones.

Try a Lee Breech Lock Challenger kit. They are lower end, but work just fine and leave you more money for things that will make a bigger difference. You'll need a couple other things too, but most important is probably a good bench. DIY is the way to go for that. It has to be heavy and rock solid or you won't have a very good time.
 
You will not save one nickel, if you're like every other loader.
You'll enjoy it and shoot more.
You'll buy more likely adding gear, you may get casting gear for the 45/70.
Don't worry about getting the biggest setup to start , add that as you figure you're personal needs.
Get the Lee challenger breech lock kit w/loading Manuel. Also buy calipers from Canada Tire or princess auto.
Have fun.
*If I was shooting factory 45-70 ammo I would fire 20 a year, but I reload using projectiles I cast. I fire over 1500 year.
 
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In my experience over 40 years of reloading, I believe I have saved considerable money while at the same time not being dependent on any stores for ammo.

Still using the original RCBS Jr. press, RCBS beam scale and other components.

One bullet at a time. Never felt the need for more sophisticated and production oriented equipment for my shooting needs.

It is a great hobby. If you are going to look at it as just another job and not going to enjoy the process, don't get started.
 
If I were in your position, I would buy ready rolled 308 match (500 rounds) bulk to get the best price and see how the year goes.

See how easy / expensive that was and shoot those until you get close to running out. If expensive / difficult to obtain and you run out fast, time to get into reloading. If it was not difficult to locate, and you actually only shot 500 rounds in a year, do not bother getting into reloading.

What nobody says is how far the equipment selection tends to creep. It's like going down the rabbit hole! Also, even with prudent, careful selection of equipment the cost adds up rapidly and that takes the edge off of rolling your own.

If you see yourself shooting with 3-5 different calibers in the near future, a couple of those tricky / very expensive to buy in volume then reloading will be a necessity. For 308 / 45/70 mortar rounds you can likely source these if you search wide enough ready rolled.

Candocad.
 
Yes, it is worth it:

You save money
You make ammo that shoots well in your rifle.
It is a whole new hobby, in its own right.

If you decide to proceed, PM me. I can give you a good press and maybe some other bits.
 
If you are not buying a kit of some brand and are just piecing a single stage press together then there are a few small things to think of that add up. I will list a few but I am not at my bench so I will just wing it.
Primer Pocket cleaners, large and small, price is what you want to pay. A old 11/64 and13/64 H.S. drill bit ground flat to near 90 deg. on a piece of dowel work great
Primer crimp remover/reamer, needed for some military brass.
Priming tool. I use a press mounted RCBS ram style for rifle as you have a good feel of primer seating and easy to inspect seating depth and adjust.
Brass chamfering tool for use after trimming length or new brass. Carbide is expensive but lasts just short of forever.
Calipers to measure everything. CTC has digital ones on sale every 6 weeks for under $15.00. Vernier calipers work great if you have good eyes/glasses, time and you like to impress your grandkids along with your slide rule.
A powder trickler. I have two that I hardly use as I am pretty good with spatula from working in an analytical lab years ago. If you use a trickler don't forget to empty it of all powder when done.
One added point, You need a powder scale but not a powder measure/thrower. You can make a selection of powder dippers out of scrap brass cases cut to length. Solder a 2-1/2 nail to it's wall and add a dowel handle.
You will save some money on the big stuff but you will just spend it on more powder and bullets or upgrading your reloading bench.
And speaking of the bench you are actually reloading on build it strong, cover over the top lumber with floor underlay plywood and anchor to the wall. If you know someone who is getting a custom built home by a local contractor ask if you can scrounge lumber from the scrap bin.
 
Candocad said:
If I were in your position, I would buy ready rolled 308 match (500 rounds) bulk to get the best price and see how the year goes.

See how easy / expensive that was and shoot those until you get close to running out. If expensive / difficult to obtain and you run out fast, time to get into reloading. If it was not difficult to locate, and you actually only shot 500 rounds in a year, do not bother getting into reloading.

What nobody says is how far the equipment selection tends to creep. It's like going down the rabbit hole! Also, even with prudent, careful selection of equipment the cost adds up rapidly and that takes the edge off of rolling your own.

If you see yourself shooting with 3-5 different calibers in the near future, a couple of those tricky / very expensive to buy in volume then reloading will be a necessity. For 308 / 45/70 mortar rounds you can likely source these if you search wide enough ready rolled.

Candocad.
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Except that for the cost of that 500 rounds he could be set up with everything he needs to reload. And probably enough materials for 1000+ rounds. Your advice is like giving a man a fish as opposed to teaching him how to fish.
 
To OP - might want to do honest assessment about yourself - do you read and follow directions? Reloading pretty easy and safe, if yes. I started in 1970's - I have yet to have a malfunction or a mishap from my own stuff. I just checked - there are 19 different die sets in my storage drawer - so I have or had that many different cartridges that I have loaded for over the years. Neighbour started same as I did - same tools - his very first round stuck tight - beat on bolt with 2x4 and broke off the handle (Remington Model 788 in 22-250). Never did "own up" to what he did. So far as he is concerned, "hand loading" is total waste of time and at times he was quite adamant about it. Another acquaintance claims a "friend" loaded a bunch of rounds for him - not one would chamber into his rifle - he is also convinced that re-loading is not at all something he wants any thing to do with. Both situations pretty predictable, if the re-loading guy does not follow very basic and simple rules that are repeated multiple times in loading manuals. But some chose to "know better", or to rely on a "buddy's" advice, or know a "short cut", instead of doing what the book says to do.
 
mimile said:
I would suggest you start with RCBS partner beginning kit. It is not expensive ($135) and works very well. Also get RCBS dies, a mallet, a bullet puller of some sort, a caliper, and a lee case trimmer and you are good to go. This is the strict minimum. You can expand little by little later on.
If you shoot 1000 rounds a year, it is definitely worth it.
Now I have a friend of mine who uses one box of ammo every 10 years. He shoots one cartridge before hunting season to make sure he is well sighted in and one shot for his deer. He is not interested in handloading.
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This is what I would recommend as well
Single stage press. personally I like an RCBS or similar case trimmer.
Canadian Tire has calipers on sale regularly as does Princess Auto
You also need a scale if one is not in the above kit
It is a very enjoyable hobby in its own right, never mind the savings...plus the satisfaction of fine tuning your ammo for your rifle.

Look around at garage sales, on the EE etc because you will want a case tumbler, a chamfer tool, and probably a priming tool.
Lots of good used stuff on the EE
 
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BioPace said:
Except that for the cost of that 500 rounds he could be set up with everything he needs to reload. And probably enough materials for 1000+ rounds. Your advice is like giving a man a fish as opposed to teaching him how to fish.
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My advice is more like giving a man a fish, but reminding him there is a fishmongers round the corner if he only has fish on Friday............:)

Candocad..
 
Potashminer said:
To OP - might want to do honest assessment about yourself - do you read and follow directions? Reloading pretty easy and safe, if yes. I started in 1970's - I have yet to have a malfunction or a mishap from my own stuff. I just checked - there are 19 different die sets in my storage drawer - so I have or had that many different cartridges that I have loaded for over the years. Neighbour started same as I did - same tools - his very first round stuck tight - beat on bolt with 2x4 and broke off the handle (Remington Model 788 in 22-250). Never did "own up" to what he did. So far as he is concerned, "hand loading" is total waste of time and at times he was quite adamant about it. Another acquaintance claims a "friend" loaded a bunch of rounds for him - not one would chamber into his rifle - he is also convinced that re-loading is not at all something he wants any thing to do with. Both situations pretty predictable, if the re-loading guy does not follow very basic and simple rules that are repeated multiple times in loading manuals. But some chose to "know better", or to rely on a "buddy's" advice, or know a "short cut", instead of doing what the book says to do.
Click to expand...

Your neighbours must be my neighbours too...
 
A guy gave me this little tip years ago and it seems pretty solid..
If you don't have a chronograph and it is not on the table when you first start loading then shoot a target with your favorite factory ammunition at your sight in range. Then load up some with a bullet as close to the factory one you can find that would meet your needs. Keeping the powder charges within the manual specs load so that your impact elevation is the same as the factory ammunition. This should then be close to the factory velocity and thus energy. How close this really is depends on how fussy you are. If you are hunting and shooting off hand then 50 FPS is of no consequence.
Just my 2 cents.
 
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