reloading newbie. ? on data tables.

darcy32171

darcy32171

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What do you guys use for consistent data for reloading? I`ve read the whole book by Richard Lee (second edition) and his load data is totally different than the Hodgdon load data. Being a newbie, I`m pretty darn sure there is no place for "averages" when it comes to reloading. That is why the question I asked. I have a Savage 22-250. I`ve ran about 60 rounds of Winchester 45gr JHP`s (4000fps) and love them. My buddy reloads for the same gun, he uses IMR 4895 powder, but it doesn`t show IMR 4895 in a 45gr and the Hodgdon only shows the 50 and 55gr.
If anyone here reloads Winchester shells for a 22-250, What seems to work the best? Thanks,Darcy
 
The classic 22-250 load is 38.0 grain of H380 behind a 52 grain bullet.
As for load data if think that the best sources are Hodgdon Reloading Manual, Lyman Reloading Manual and Sierra Reloading Manual.
These 3 sources are conservative in their approach and are more interested in accuracy than velocity at all costs.

Lyman and Sierra manual are a goldmine of valuable reloading information.
You should probably buy both of them, read and reread them.

Alex
 
Yeah, you will find that there is a great deal of variance from book to book. One books max will be another books min. All listed loads are lawyer safe, so the chances of blowing something up using them are near zero. That being said, start on the lower end of all the data you have and work up until you see signs of pressure problems. You may well find that your gun prefers lower charged loads. Pay close attention to OAL as this can have a hhuge affect on case pressures and if you have ANY pressure signs like flat primers or shells sticking in the chamber then you need to back the powder off or increase OAL, less powder being the better choice. The books are more of a guide so dont treat them like gosspel.

hope that helps
 
I load winchester brass. Tried hornady 55gr hpbt with 30grains of hodgdon 4895, too weak! Was getting keyholes at 50yds.Obviously my LEE load data is on the low side. Now loading 50gr. winchester solids (fmj, no boattail) with 34.5 grains of 4895. MUCH better. I will probably keep that load level but go to an even lighter bullet. The 22-250 is a screamer! One thing I'd keep a close eye on is case length. I find the necks have to be trimmed after two reloads no matter what! Good luck, and check your measures!
 
My Sierra manual shows 33.5 to 36.5 gr of IMR4895 for a 45 gr bullet in a 22-250. Velocity of 3500 to 3900 min to max.
 
loading manuals

I like to advise new handloaders to go and buy all the current manuals. It is not that big an investment and it is invaluable to you.
I have all the reloading manuals from all the major players since the early 70's and I still go back sometimes to the old ones for loads no longer listed. The other value is that not all manuals list all powders suitable in a given cartridge but with all the manuals out there you will find a load for virtually every powder suitable for that cartridge.
When I endeavor to load for a new cartridge or change bullet weights in one already in my collection I get out all manuals and compare loads, and I find this comparative information extemely helpful in virtually all instances.
I also advise you to read the begining chapters in all the manuals and you will be most informed on the process of metallic cartridge reloading.

Welcome to the ranks of reloading, and know, you will no longer have to wonder what to do with all that spare time and money you used to have!!!!
 
I have the Sierra, Hornady and Speer manuals on my bookshelf and if I were to think about loading a nonconventional bullet, like the Barnes copper ones, I'd make sure that I had their manual too. Plus I buy the annual Hodgdon "magazine" whenever I find it.

Generally, I by a new version of my main manuals about every second edition. So I actually have 2 Speer manuals and 3 sets of the Hornady and Sierra manuals (2 volume sets)

I also have a subscription to AmmoGuide.com. More as a place to find possibilities, rather than hard data.
 
The LEE data is always lower than anyone else's, and their measures always throw less than advertsised, too. They are VERY focused on liability and one has to wonder if they really have faith in their equipment since they consistantly underload and under measure everything they make.....

The Lyman Reloaders's Guide is the best manual, IMO. Go to Hodgdon.com and check there too. The Lee reloading manual is the Leest useful, IMO.
 
Most of my reloading manuals are old, i quit buying new ones and now check out new data on the companys web site. Hodgon has a very good site as do all powder companys, i prefere the manufactures data to somebody selling reloading tools. Easy enough to print off the data you need for a specific cartridge, put them in a binder with any notes on final load worked up. Remember the data published is a guide line only, find a start load and work up to max for your rifle and components. I agree with AlexF about H380 in a 22-250, wore out several barrels in a Rem 788 shooting gophers with that powder.
 
darcy32171 said:
What do you guys use for consistent data for reloading? I`ve read the whole book by Richard Lee (second edition) and his load data is totally different than the Hodgdon load data. Being a newbie, I`m pretty darn sure there is no place for "averages" when it comes to reloading. That is why the question I asked. I have a Savage 22-250. I`ve ran about 60 rounds of Winchester 45gr JHP`s (4000fps) and love them. My buddy reloads for the same gun, he uses IMR 4895 powder, but it doesn`t show IMR 4895 in a 45gr and the Hodgdon only shows the 50 and 55gr.
If anyone here reloads Winchester shells for a 22-250, What seems to work the best? Thanks,Darcy
Click to expand...

The Lyman Reloading Handbook (49th Edition) has data for 14 different powders for the 22-250 using 45gr bullets. The manual shows a max load of 36.5 gr of IMR4895 at 3901 fps.

Other powders that look good in the 22-250/45 gr bullet are : IMR4064, Varget, AA-2230, IMR3031, and RX15. I really like IMR4064 and RX15.
 
c-fbmi said:
I like to advise new handloaders to go and buy all the current manuals. It is not that big an investment and it is invaluable to you.
I have all the reloading manuals from all the major players since the early 70's and I still go back sometimes to the old ones for loads no longer listed. The other value is that not all manuals list all powders suitable in a given cartridge but with all the manuals out there you will find a load for virtually every powder suitable for that cartridge.
When I endeavor to load for a new cartridge or change bullet weights in one already in my collection I get out all manuals and compare loads, and I find this comparative information extemely helpful in virtually all instances.
I also advise you to read the begining chapters in all the manuals and you will be most informed on the process of metallic cartridge reloading.

Welcome to the ranks of reloading, and know, you will no longer have to wonder what to do with all that spare time and money you used to have!!!!
Click to expand...

x2!

I'm not old enogh to have acquired all those books myself, but I got lucky as my Uncle taught me reloading and had all sorts of reloading books from the 60
s and 70s, and gave them all to me when he quit reloading. I still refer to them today when looking for new and interesting combinations to try out, or just to compare to for my own peace of mind.
 
First off LEE didn't develop the data they show in their manual. They have collected information from outside sources and present it in their format.

All data from difference sources are going to be slightly different from each other because they were developed using different bullets, primers, cases, batches of powder as well as different firearms. This is why when developing a load for your rifle you start at the beginning load and work up carefully.

You may or may not reach the maximum load listed in you data source. Read up carefully so that you know the signs of excess pressure.
 
I have several different reloading manuals and when reloading somethign new I review all of them ot get an idea on what the min and max loads should be, then I work up a load. I also check various web sites but I trust the manuals.
 
One item to think about is, that your gun, is different than everybody else's.
There are a lot of variables involved. The manual publishers invest a lot of coin in time and equipment to make the manuals as reliable as they can be. The results you get, may be right on the money, they could also be quite different one way or the other because of your gun. Measurement methods have changed a bit over the years, some powders have changed a bit, some bullets are a bit different than they were. Start low, work up, see what happens and where you wind up. And read everything you can to learn more about it.
 
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