reloading nickel 9mm

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Greglc

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So I've loaded about 1500 45s, just under 1000 357s, mostly brass, but never bothered to load 9mm when a case of 1000 was $250.00, but then it went up to 300, now 350 a case, so figured it was time, I've had the dies/bullets for years, just wasn't worth it till now.
Anyway, so I did 500 brass cased, and 100 nickel, started on the next batch of nickle, 10 cases into size/decap, a case got stuck in die. I figured I must of not been paying attention and put it on top of shell holder. So out comes die, I look at case sticking out and the sides of the rim are busted off, pulled back from case. So this was in shell holder and got ripped off while lowering ram. So pull pin, out to shop and punch out shell, no problem. Back in I go, 4 shells later, same thing.
Anyone else have this with nickel 9s? I've always felt nickel anything was a little harder to size, but not that much harder. And yes I checked die and shell holder, both 9mm, (not to mention I just did 600 with them, but I checked) no damage or even ware to shell holder.
 
When I reload 9mm, I put a bunch in a 2l ice cream bucket, spray a bit of Lyman qwik spray lube, put the lid on, and give the bucket a shake. The tiny bit of lube that gets on the cases makes all the difference in the world.

Never had any issues resizing the nickel plated cases.

BTW, you do have a carbide sizing die, right?
 
I have reloaded many brass and nickel cases over the years.
I have never had an issue with nickel.

However I have read a few times about using a small amount of lube even with carbide dies
so I plan to try that.
 
I ran into nickel plated cases once that had very tight flash hole and decapping pin would get stuck.
No issues with the cases as of late thou.
 
stefofthenorth said:
Will this work with brass too? I am surprised how hard it is to size and decap my 9mm. I am using rcbs carbid dies.
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Because 9mm cases are tapered they get harder to size the closer to the bottom of the stroke you get. It's normal to feel more resistance than you would with straight walled cases.
 
Only nickel ones I have trouble with are Winchesters where sometimes the primer must get stuck on the pin, then sucked back into the pocket to be reseated at the next station.

But I've never had issues sizing them with ordinary Lee carbide dies. I don't lube - just tumble.

A bit of spray lube won't harm a thing, though. Just use it sparingly. Even on cases that I have to lube (44-40) I get away with lubing one in three
 
stefofthenorth said:
Will this work with brass too? I am surprised how hard it is to size and decap my 9mm. I am using rcbs carbid dies.
Click to expand...

I only started using a misting of spray lube with 9mm. I never had any issues with 38 spec / 357 Mag, 44 Spec / 44 Mag, or 45 ACP.
I think it's the taper of the 9mm case that makes life difficult.
 
I put 9mm cases in a pail and give a quick spray or silicon lube to the inside wall of the pail, then swirl the cases. With a carbide sizer the lube makes it much easier.

I do notice the plated cases are a little more difficult to size.

After the sizing, I tumble the cases for a half hour to clean of the lube.

I do not lube the 40, 38 or 45 cases.
 
Well didn't have any spray but threw them in a zip lock with a cleaning patch with a little lube on it, what a difference, couldn't quite operate press with one finger, but could with 2. Like others said never used lube on other pistol cases, but deffinately will on 9s from now on.
 
Lube makes a world of difference on 500mag cases, doesn't even feel like it's resizing. Without lube my dies start getting warm.
 
Corncob tumbled cases are not so bad, but if you ss pin clean squeaky clean, you definitely need lube to operate the progressive press smoothly. With no lube I get powder spilling and bullet drops. With lube it all works.
 
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