Reloading on Dillon 550B

[albog]

Hi;

I'm a newby in reloading, actually, I've just set up the machine and collected brass, bullets, powder, and all required tools and accessories.

For pistol ammo, I think I've got a general idea in my mind (haven't tried it yet) for the first two stages, i.e., de-priming, sizing and priming and powder dispensing. Any practical tips for those two stages, however, will be appreciated.

I have a very fuzzy idea about the stage three - how to properly sit a bullet so the cartridge comes out at a specified length. Stage 4, I believe, is just crimp. I think my question is how to properly set up the dies for stages 3 and 4 so the cartridge is of correct length and is crimped properly.

Also, if I can get some practical tips and specifics on reloading rifle cartridges on that machine.

Thanks in advance

 

[tjhaile]

First of all, read the press and die instructions if you haven't already.

Correct OAL for auto pistols is the longest that feeds from the magazine and chambers freely. Use the barrel of your pistol as a gauge. If a loaded round drops all the way into the chamber as easily as a sized empty case, it isn't too long. If you are reloading for a revolver, seat the bullet to the crimp groove.

Taper crimping shouldn't do much more than flatten out the case mouth where it was expanded by the powder funnel to allow for bullet insertion. Roll crimps for revolvers should go all the way to the bottom of crimp groove. If some of the crimp is parallel at the case mouth, you are crimping too much.

As for rifle cartridges, do all of your case prep (i.e sizing and trimming if needed) separately. I keep a spare toolhead just to take sizing dies for this purpose. Do everything else using station 1 only to prime once you have a supply of prepared cases.

 

[bnichols]

What tjhaiile said. Other than that, stage 3 is probably your last chance to deal with problems before you have to resort to a bullet puller (e.g. primers in backwards and double loads). In the beginning you may want to weigh every casing to detect squibs & doubles and get into the habit of inserting the bullet pointy end out (just to mention a few of the mistakes I've made :-/ )

 

[chemo]

if expending with the powder through expander (ie powder die/ station 2) setting up the powder die to proper height is a PITA and can result in over bell that cannot be corrected by the seater die. Either pulling or factory/taper crimp will be necessary.

When setting up the powder die it is important to screw all screws before calling it done because when everything is tightened up, it tends to be lower than what you have setted it up to, which will result in too much bell The perfect bell zone is very tight and is tricky to achieve, however if you dont have a powder check or a crimp in one of your 4 stations, using the powder die to expend is not necessary, it's far easier to control with an expender die. To setup the powder die to not expand, adjust it so powder is thrown but no bell is applied.

I have just been through this as I used to use the expender die, but now I expand with powder die and it works like a charm (once setup properly) and my first batch had too much bell.

 

[scout]

Youtube also has a few clips on using the Dillon 550 that may be useful - I also agree that it's best if you read the manual and then post questions. No real practical suggestions that you won't figure out yourself soon enuf ... other than visually inspect each round for a double powder charge and make sure that your seating die (stage 3) has the proper insert for your bullet (ie: SWC flat vs FMJ round ). Crimp (stage 4) needs to be just visible, but not too heavy (not physically distorting the case/bullet) - sufficient to help feeding and to stop the bullet from jamming into the case if dropped or hit. Chamber checking in your barrel is your best check for funstion short of shooting it ... eventually you'll get tired of taking your barrel out when reloading and decide to buy a chamber gauge (almost a 'must have' for rifle reloading and setting up your dies).

Enjoy your 550! One of the best purchases I've made.

 

[Short Knife Johnson]

I have a bendy light made by Dremel with an LED that I snake through the toolhead. I just turn it on and aim it at station #2. This gives good vantage to keep an eye on powder. In my 16 or so years of using my 550B (since 1993), I have only had trouble with Red Dot not always giving up a powder charge. My advice would be to avoid the use of the Dot family of powders in it. No matter what the folks at Dillon say, it seems to want to bridge off. You won't be sorry for getting one of these. It will serve you well.