I have an Enfield no 2 in 38s&w I full length size the cases and seat my 145gr projectile (.361) to book length and the rounds only drop into the cylinder half way. I think they need to be crimped? Any help on what kind of crimp or where to get one or if 380 auto or 38acp crimp die will work?
Reloading question for Enfield no 2 revolver
- Thread starter Evans31
- Start date
Try checking each cylinder for residue build-up. I had this issue and found a bunch of crap in each cylinder that needed to be removed.
I tried a Lewis lead remover, didn't work well at all. In the end, I used a dental pick and gently scraped it away, and my rounds dropped in and fell out with no issues.
I tried a Lewis lead remover, didn't work well at all. In the end, I used a dental pick and gently scraped it away, and my rounds dropped in and fell out with no issues.
The length in your reloading manual is only relevant for the exact same bullet that was used to develop the data. Standard practice for revolvers is to seat the bullet to the crimp groove in the bullet (if present) and crimp the case mouth into the groove.
What dies are you using? Most seating dies can be set up to both seat the bullet and crimp simultaneously, though I prefer to separate the steps. If you have a .380 or .38 ACP crimp die, it might be worth trying. Revolver cartridges normally use roll crimps, but taper crimping would probably be acceptable for a low-recoil application like this.
If you are expanding the case mouths prior to seating and not crimping afterwards, that could certainly cause fit problems. Handgun cartridges should always at least be crimped enough to remove the case mouth flare, besides retaining the bullet more securely than neck tension alone.
What dies are you using? Most seating dies can be set up to both seat the bullet and crimp simultaneously, though I prefer to separate the steps. If you have a .380 or .38 ACP crimp die, it might be worth trying. Revolver cartridges normally use roll crimps, but taper crimping would probably be acceptable for a low-recoil application like this.
If you are expanding the case mouths prior to seating and not crimping afterwards, that could certainly cause fit problems. Handgun cartridges should always at least be crimped enough to remove the case mouth flare, besides retaining the bullet more securely than neck tension alone.
stevebc, make up some "Ed's Red" Next time you run into a leading problem, run a soaked, loose patch through the chamber and bore, then set it aside for an hour, wipe it out and repeat the soak. Letting it sit overnight works best.
A much easier method is WIPE OUT LEAD OUT. You still have to let it sit for a couple of hours but usually one application will do the job.
The short answer, yes they need to be crimped.
To trouble shoot the problem, try putting a resized case in the chamber and make sure it goes in. Then try one that is belled, and see if there is a difference. Then you can try with a bullet. I suggest you do one trial without a primer or powder so that you can make sure it all works before you make up a batch.
If the chambers are dirty I would recommend a short section of quarter inch brass rod, filed flat on the end. to scrape out any carbon. The brass will do that without damaging the chambers.
To trouble shoot the problem, try putting a resized case in the chamber and make sure it goes in. Then try one that is belled, and see if there is a difference. Then you can try with a bullet. I suggest you do one trial without a primer or powder so that you can make sure it all works before you make up a batch.
If the chambers are dirty I would recommend a short section of quarter inch brass rod, filed flat on the end. to scrape out any carbon. The brass will do that without damaging the chambers.
Shouldn't be any leading in the cylinder, unless someone put the cartridge in backwards. 
Build-up is probably some combination of powder residue dried lubricant or preservative, and oxidization. Can produce a substance with a ceramic-like hardness.
Soak the cylinder in a varsol or ed's red overnight and then appy a brass brush vigorously.
Build-up is probably some combination of powder residue dried lubricant or preservative, and oxidization. Can produce a substance with a ceramic-like hardness.
Soak the cylinder in a varsol or ed's red overnight and then appy a brass brush vigorously.
Your die likely has a crimp built into it and it just isn't coming into contact with the lip of the case mouth. Are you setting the seating die low enough? My old RCBS seating die has to be set up so the shell head holder is touching the base of the die to get a good crimp.
