Reloading Revolver Cartridges on a Progressive press

AbHobbyist

AbHobbyist

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Hello all!!

Need a little help, with reloading for a revolver on a progressive press, as my search-fu seems to be very weak.

Before I begin, I have been reloading Single stage for a long time and have started using a Dillion 550b progressive for my Auto loading rifles and handguns.

For these I am able to get away with a light taper crimp, or the use of a Lee Factory crimp die, where case length is not critical

However I have never reloaded for a revolver on a progressive, specifically 357 magnum.

My understanding is that for revolvers ammo needs to have a roll crimp.

To have good roll crimps, the case length need to be consistent, and the mouths need to be square. The only way I know how to ensure this is to trim each one.

So on a single stage I would size all the cases, Then trim them, camfer & de-bur the case mouth, then proceed as required.

However we all know that trimming cases, especially by hand, can be tedious and time consuming.

So those of you that reload 357 mag on progressive presses, what is your standard operating procedure, especially when it comes to trimming and roll crimping?

Please keep in mind that I am not trying for hot loads, just good consitant, realiable loads at the 38special +P level or slightly above,

which should be potent enough for Zombies, should the need ever arise ;) (yes this was a "Walking Dead" reference)

Thanks in advance for your help and constructive replies

regards

AbH
 
I use the Lee FCD for all my calibers. Tighter for semi-autos, but that may be just my preference.
I shoot about 1000 38 spl. per year with the factory crimp and haven't had any issues.

I seat the bullets on my progressive, then run them though the FCD on my turret press.
Hope this helps.
 
I reload thousands of .38 and .357 mag on my 550B. Never ever have I trimmed a case. If I ever have to, I will just throw it away. That being said, my advice would be to not try and seat and roll crimp with the same die. Get a seperate dedicated roll crimp die and you will never have any problems.
 
redryder said:
I reload thousands of .38 and .357 mag on my 550B. Never ever have I trimmed a case. If I ever have to, I will just throw it away. That being said, my advice would be to not try and seat and roll crimp with the same die. Get a seperate dedicated roll crimp die and you will never have any problems.
Click to expand...

What he said x2.

Forget the Lee FCD for pistol cartridges, not necessary. Use a nice roll crimp. If you decide to shoot lead bullets within their velocity envelope you can just pit a nice taper crimp on them and rely on friction to hold the bullet. If you go to lead bullets with a gas check and load them heavy then you are back to roll crimping.

Take Care

Bob
 
i load 38 and 357 on my pro 1000 without any issues. i load them very light, to as hot as i can without the use of a factory crimp die. i just use the seating/crimp die lee supplies.

i never trim my cases, or do anything other then tumble.
 
I seat and crimp .38 special with the standard bullet seating die. All in one step. I've done it that way on single stages, on a turret, and now on a Hornady progressive. Without ever trimming a case. It works fine.
 
Most, if not all, "straight" walled cases tend not to grow as they are fired and re-fired. When seeking accurate .38 or .357 cases, consistency of the roll crimp is important. I have had once-fired (personally fired factory ammo by my own self) vary considerably in length, case lot to case lot, and certainly brand to brand. Trimming they once, and chucking them in the "good to go" category, helps ensure they will all be the same length, the roll crimp will fall in the same place, and bullet pull, pressure and hence velocity will be consistent.

None of that is necessary for plinking, of course, but in a Bullseye match, where X's may determine winner, one would hate to fail in such a simple matter. As for when to do it, the roll crimp bilt into your seating die is ideal for the task. The crimp must lie in a cannelure or lube groove. For light .38 loads, little crimp is required. For true .357 loads, a stout crimp will aid accuracy, and ensure against bullet set-back on recoil.
 
Gentlemen

I very much appreciate all the constructive imput and help.

I will keep you update as to how things progress.

regards

AbH
 
I load severl revolver calibers on a Dillon 550B. never trimmed a case. For years i just set the seater die for a moderate crimp. Some crimps would be more or less, depending on case length.

Recently I installed a Lee factory die in position 4 and use the seater just to seat and the Lee FCD to do the crimping. I think this is slightly better.
 
Ganderite: Recently I installed a Lee factory die in position 4 and use the seater just to seat and the Lee FCD to do the crimping. I think this is slightly better.[/QUOTE said:
+ 1

I just got my first FCD and don't know how I made it this long without it. Now I need a few more ;)
Click to expand...
 
Rookie{OMC} said:
+ 1

I just got my first FCD and don't know how I made it this long without it. Now I need a few more ;)
Click to expand...

If you are speaking about thr FCD for rifle they certainly work well. The FCD for pistol is not the same die. If you are using the die to remove the slight bulge you get when loading lead or plated bullets you might want to pull a bullet after you have re-sized the case and measure it's diameter.

Take Care

Bob
 
I load .38 spec on my 550 using dillon dies. I have never trimmed brass. my odpl/idpa load has a medium crimp and some a little more some a little less depending on case legth but will hold 2" at 25 yards out of my 4" k frame. My target load the old standby speer 148 hbwc swaged ahead of 2.7 of bullseye will shoot ragged holes at 25 yards out of my 6" l frame.

i was noticing a few flyers in my target load and thought it might be from the light crimp i was using with the dillon dies and varying case length causing differnt crimp depths affecting the soft swaged lead bullets. I switched to an RCBS taper crimp die for this load and the flyers are much less. I think taper crimp is a little less dependant on case length.

just a few thoughts for you.
 
I also have never trinmmed 38/357 brass and load on a 550b. I have twice had problems once due to not trimming and once not crimping enough. Some of my cast 338 WM reloads would not chamber and will have to have the bullets pulled and the cases trimmed. They are too long. Second, shooting factory equivalent reloads in my 44 Super Black Hawk after the first three or four shots the bullets started working their way out of the cases thus jamming the cylinder. It was a simple matter to push them in by hand but I put a heavier crimp on the remaining ammunition before shooting any more. The last rifle I bought was a 45/70 and I bought the inexpensive Lee case trimmer. Generally straight sided cases don't require much trimming.
 
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