Reloading the 5.56 NATO?

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thader

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It seems like every year ammo prices are rising to the point where I'm considering reloading, can anyone tell me about the gear they are using? I know some like to keep their load data confidential and that's cool, just wondering what kind of equipment would be good for someone with very little knowledge.

I've read the FAQ's and watched a few YouTube videos, but I figure it would be a good idea to get some input from Canadians since I want to avoid buying components from international dealers.
 
You should buy a reloading manual (or two) and read them first. Then you could start with one of the Lee starter kits with a single stage press. Once you get your components (Bullets, brass, powder & primers) you are good to go. You can buy all of the components you need in Canada.
 
Just don't get bitten by "faster bullet" bug. It can have fatal consequences.

Like everyone says, read, read and read some more. I would recommend starting with a single stage press and once you become very comfortable with it, then you can move to a progressive like the Hornady Lock & Load AP. Having said that, you can use the L&LAP as a single stage by just using one die at a time.
 
like has been said, start with a single stage. Get the ABC's of reloading and the Lee manual. read em. try to understand it all. Get as much information as you can.

Get a Rockchucker single stage. Keep it simple. don't try to rush, don't skip steps, check everything, all the time. record all.

don't go overboard on fanciness, keep it simple.
 
keep it simple - the faster load (hottest) may not be the most accurate - read more than one reloading manual - my rule of thumb is buy once cry once - that being said have a forester co-ax press (read up on this) your not messing around with shell holders etc - all you need is a good set of dies - if your only reloading for your particular gun you may want to neck size only - if your picking up rounds at the range then full neck size (do not know what this means) that's why you need to read read read.

Good advice what may work for others may not work for you when it comes to reloading you have to find the sweet spot - you will be surprised how accurate hand loads are compared to factory. Do not be afraid to ask questions in the end you will know more and in the long run save some coin.

Finally we've all screwed up at one time so your bound to make your share of mistakes - a golden rule is to NEVER exceed maximum powder charges for any bullet -unless you want to be referred to "Did you hear about the guy who tried "insert what led to your demise here"

cheers
 
All good advice here, but if you can, find someone who reloads and spend and evening or two with them to get you started.
 
What bullets are you loading ??

There is no reason to waste time on getting "nato" velocity for practice and plinking.

For all intensive purposes, you will hardly notice any practical change in POI over a standard BDC for that little 150 fps in velocity within the typical 5,56 engagement range.
 
AB.boy said:
You should buy a reloading manual (or two) and read them first. Then you could start with one of the Lee starter kits with a single stage press. Once you get your components (Bullets, brass, powder & primers) you are good to go. You can buy all of the components you need in Canada.
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This is exactly how I started. Lee 25th Anniversary kit...comes with everything you need but the dies, start there, if you enjoy reloading you can upgrade.
And I started with the Lyman reloading manual, it's good.
 
First, do what everyone else is telling you to do. Buy a few books on reloading, watch videos, ask a thousand questions. There is a subforum here dedicated strictly to Reloading.

As for me, I use a Dillon 650 to reload. I shoot way too much to consider using a single stage press except for precision rifle.

Projectiles are available through certain site sponsors up top.
Brass too, but I just recycle mine or use range pick up.
Primers from site sponsors
Powder might be an issue, but again....Google is your friend.

As for me personally, I use 55gr Hornady FMJ with cannelure and put 25gr of W748 under it. It approximates "Nato" load without the extra heat (low flame temp is a W748 characteristic, which leads to extending barrel life) and is very accurate out of all my ARs. None of my ARs like Varget very much, but my .223 bolt action does. YMMV
 
Read the ABCs of reloading no matter what you're reloading for.

Easy, consistent and cheap(ish) load: WC-735 powder, whatever brass (I prefer my vintage IVI, but it doesn't really matter), whatever bullets, CCI primers. Good consistent powder.
 
I agree. I use lighter charges for my main .223 reloads for my AR-15. I was able to tighten my groups, and it fully and easily cycles my carbine very well. No problems at all. Of course, if I was using it for defence, or for hunting more than small game, I would suggest using more powder, but its really nice to shoot, its cheaper to load, and its easier on the equipment.

Of course, this is on a gas operated firearm. I imagine that it will work just fine, or even better in a manually operated one.

greentips said:
What bullets are you loading ??

There is no reason to waste time on getting "nato" velocity for practice and plinking.

For all intensive purposes, you will hardly notice any practical change in POI over a standard BDC for that little 150 fps in velocity within the typical 5,56 engagement range.
Click to expand...
 
thader said:
It seems like every year ammo prices are rising to the point where I'm considering reloading, can anyone tell me about the gear they are using? I know some like to keep their load data confidential and that's cool, just wondering what kind of equipment would be good for someone with very little knowledge.

I've read the FAQ's and watched a few YouTube videos, but I figure it would be a good idea to get some input from Canadians since I want to avoid buying components from international dealers.
Click to expand...

Before you run out and buy reloading manuals and invest in the cheapest, sh!ttiest Lee single stage POS (seriously, don't do that) you should ask yourself what you want from your ammo.
Do you shoot long range? Multiple calibers? How many different calibers do you shoot and how many of those do you want to hand load for? Hard to find ammo? Are you looking for 'match' quality, bulk 'plinking', hunting ammo or a mix?
Do you compete or send a lot of ammo down range?

If it is just cheap 50-60 grain FMJ in .223 you are looking to send down range, it can be done relatively cheaply (around the $300 mark with range pick up brass as a base - not counting equipment)
 
Definitely get The ABCs of Reloading if you can. I suggest also Lyman's and there's a lot more information on the web that is useful. There are sites entirely specialized about reloading, and surprizingly enough, even Wikipedia has a relatively good first primer article. Check the articles about internal ballistics too, it will give you an idea of what you are getting into when reloading and what you must pay close attention to. Reloading is not dark sorcery (much), but it is not for the careless!

Like others said, what equipment you buy will depend on what you intend to do with it. I skipped right over buying a single stage press because I knew I'd need a progressive press anyways. But I for sure have been using my press as a single stage while learning the ropes, making sure that every single step is understood, correctly set up, the results measured, adjustements properly made and the final results controlled again before I fiddled with any next step in the assembly chain.

Is the case resized right? Is the primer at the proper depth and set straight and firm? Did I bell/expand the case enough, not enough, too much? How confident am I that I have thrown the correct amount of powder in there? Am I getting the same exact amount every time from the measure? Are the bullets seated too far in or too far out? Am I taper crimping too hard, enough or not enough? What the heck did I forget this time?

I've sacrificed some commercial ammo and made them into dummies just to have cases, spent primers and bullets to play with. I compare the final product with other rounds from the same box. The salvaged powder I'm not planning to use because there's no telling what it actually is and what its characteristics are. At best, all I could do with it is reload the old rounds with the same amount I got from them, that's it, no fiddling without real load data.

And I'm still reading all the while on proper bullet seating, cartridge OAL and taper crimping, chamber peak pressures, powder burn rates, you name it. It's a fun hobby, but it's also a rather technical one. But fun, in part precisely because of that.
 
If you want to reload to 5.56 velocity you must beging by using 5.56 brass, in other words brass made to military specification.
The web thickness is thicker so it can withstand higher pressures.
|Since the brass is thicker there is less internal case capacity meaning it requires less powder than an equivalent .223 case to get to a certain velocity.

This will get me in trouble with many here but I never purchased the ABCs of reloading.
I began by watching a lot of videos over and over and going on many forums and reading up on everything reloading related that I could.

There are many more steps in reloading for a bottleneck rifle case than there is for a straight walled pistol case.
Most people start with 9mm or .45 before moving to rifle calibers.
 
The only time I load for 5.56 is when I want "non plinking " ammo like 77Gr SMK ( MK262 load ) , 75Gr A-MAx , and gopher ammo ( Barnes Varmint Grenade )

Typical plinking ammo it's simply not worth my time . I have to load lots of other ammo ( from 6.8SPC , 6.5 Grendel , lots of 7.62X61 / 308 match , 458 Socom ( I buy the plinking stuff ) , Lapua etc ) that I have more stuff on my need to load list that its silly for me to spend time loading plinking ammo

Don't forget , lots of surplus 5.56 have crimped primers, so you need to factor the time to swage / remove crimp

I guess if you have all the time in the world sure , but I can't even find time to shoot most of the guns I have

As far as load data goes, lots online .

I stick to a ball powder like Hodgdon BL-C(2) , CFE223 on my progressives , and Varget for the heavies ( 69gr and up ) on single stage press

I use these powders since burn rate is also ok for 308

As far as equipment goes, just buy whatever C frame press that fits your budget ( don't buy the open frame style like Lee "reloader" )

Often the Rock Chucker starter kit is on sale . That is a good starting point

Where you want to spend your money is the dies . I mainly use Redding

IMO only Lee dies you should look at are the "Factory Crimp Die " . You are better off crimping with this die for plinking 5.56 since the crimp on on standard seating die will vary depending on case length . Most likely you will be using range pickup that will vary wildly .

Not trying to dissuade you from reloading, just don't do it to save money. Best reason is you want to learn and feel it would be a good hobby

By the time you evolving and doing more with reloading you can have small fortune invested .

Examples are case trimmers, tumblers , primer tube filler ( love watching that run ! ) . digital powder drops , bushing dies , shoulder bump die, neck sizing dies, bullet pulling dies, case feeders, bullet feeders
 
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Blastattack said:
What's wrong with Lee stuff? It may not be fancy, but it works just fine.
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Some of Lee's stuff is decent (FCD as an example), don't get me wrong. I just think the OP should have an inkling of what they want to accomplish prior to diving in buying equipment. Some stuff is better suited than others and as is most often the case, you get what you pay for.
 
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