Reloading the 7mm mauser,7x57,.275 rigby (please help)

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warweed

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I have a old george gibbs chambered in a .275 rigby (7mm mauser, 7x57)

here is my load i just want to make sure i made no mistakes before i pull the trigger

I tumbled deprimed and full length sized all my brass with my lee die

i then used the lee case length guage and cutter to cut till it would not remove more ( checked with digital caliper)

primed all cartridges with cci primers

used my lee powder measure to fill each case and double checked all measures with a digital scale accurate to .xx grains

pressed all my bullets in and check col

this my load specs

7mm mauser brass
cci large rifle primers
H414 powder
hornady .284 bullet

Brass trimmed to length
cci primer
hornady 139 gr bullet
43.5 grains of h414 powder (old gun min. is 44 from the book i have just wanted to make sure) this should be safe shouldn't it ?
COL 3.030 (min is 3.015 max is 3.065 i believe)

half are not roll crimped half are crimped

Really big picture below were you can see one crimped and one not thoughts ?

PS is it safe to re tumble after loaded to clean up remove any excess case lube and just make less scratched up from the dies ?



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Safe load. To remove leftover lube on the cartridges, I normally just wipe them down with a clean paper towel. Slow and a bit tedious sometimes, but works well, as I'm a bit leery of tumbling loaded cartridges. A few scratches on them won't make any difference, as they'll likely pick up a few in the loading/firing process, anyway. But, if you prefer them better that way, have at 'em. Your crimp looks nice and deep. I've never found it necessary to crimp 7 X 57 rounds, but nothing wrong with doing so. The Lee crimper does do a nice job. Have fun with your reloads. That's part of the fun...seeing the end result of your work on the target. Please do post a pic or two, if you get some good groups.
 
Always seem to get these afterthoughts, as soon as the post goes online. As you gain more experience in reloading, you'll pick up all kinds of useful tips and tricks. Here's one of them: When prepping cases for reloading, especially after they've been trimmed to length, its always a good idea to lightly chamfer the inside of the cartridge case mouths, to allow easier seating of the bullets. What can happen is that as the bullet enters the case, the base of bullet can catch on the sharp right angle of the case mouth, bind, and cause the lip of the neck to collapse. A couple of light turns with a chamfer tool solves that problem. Lee makes a good one. If you don't already have one, I'd recommend adding one of these to your loading tools.
 
Thanks yes I forgot to add that I did chamfer and debur the next tools on my list are electric case trimer and Lyman electric case prep tool lol hard on the hands other wise with lees tool
 
rifle ### pix's

anyone who can tell me about this rifle would be greatly appreciated as i can't find much info on it other then i think it's a sporterized uk military action
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The action is a 98 Mauser. If you post a picture of the left side of the action there may be more specific info there as to the action maker. Also remove the front scope base and examine the receiver top for markings. It once had what appears to have been a Lyman 48 short slide micrometer receiver sight. Hope it came with the rifle. The rifle has seen Bubba a couple of times and been used but it was a quality rifle when made. If the bore is still very good don't be too anxious to part with it.
 
The bore actually in excellent shape the only marking below the front scope mount is .275

Some one messaged saying they have never seen a Canadian address in the stamp before all identifying markings are shown in the pictures it has seen it's days hunting as it was what my dad shot

It actually shoots very nicely

If you had to guess on a value what would y'all think it's worth ? To be honest it is sentimental so even if it was worth 30 k I would sell but I am curious to know some history
 
Please reduce the size of your pictures.
All of those are the same thing. .275 Rigby is just the Brit commercial name. Follow your manual and you'll be fine. You don't need to crimp at all.
 
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