I purchased a Colt 1892 in 41 Long Colt and have been really enjoying reloading and shooting the antique firearm. I have a Lyman Ideal Handbook (No. 39) that has some loading data that I have been using and it recommends using 5 grains of Unique. Another person sent me some information from another Lyman Ideal Handbook printed in 1964 that recommends 4 to 5.5 grains of Unique. My boss gave me six reloading books today and one recommended a maximum of 4.5 grains of Unique. My question is how would I determine what maximum grains I should use? I have gone to 5 grains of Unique and not seen any high pressure signs but the firearm is an antique and I do worry about structural failure. Anyone else go as high as 5.5 grains of Unique in a Colt 1892 as the velocity printed should be 910 fps?
Reloading the Colt 1892 in 41 Long Colt
- Thread starter Found
- Start date
I used 4.4gr Unique (680FPS) when I used it, then switched recently to 5.4gr Ramshot True Blue (750FPS). I found the True Blue gave a MUCH higher consistency in velocity. It's also a slower powder so more gentle on the gun and I went a bit faster with it. This was with 185gr hollow base bullets.
...I was gonna say. Just like the ones I bought from you way back Ben.
I was shooting that load mainly in an 1892 and sometimes in a SAA. I don't recall going higher than 4.4gr with the unique.
I found the heeled a PITA to crimp and lube. I ended up making a custom crimp too that works quite well. Found, you can have my crimper if you do not already have a tool made, just pay the shipping.
All the bullets I have ordered come in lubed like this.
And when I reload I use these specifications.
Thanks for the offer for the 41 Colt, I will take the crimper off your hands. I will PM you my address.
The steps I use to reload are from a reloading manual and I just use the bullets as is.
1. Inspect and lube the case
2. Size and de-prime (I use CH Tool and Die reloading dies)
3. Trim and measure the case
4. Expand and flare the case
5. Prime the case
6. Charge the case
7. Seat and crimp the bullet
8. Then fire the bullet and repeat the above steps
Am I missing a step here? The bullets when completed look like the pictures below.
And when I reload I use these specifications.
Thanks for the offer for the 41 Colt, I will take the crimper off your hands. I will PM you my address.
The steps I use to reload are from a reloading manual and I just use the bullets as is.
1. Inspect and lube the case
2. Size and de-prime (I use CH Tool and Die reloading dies)
3. Trim and measure the case
4. Expand and flare the case
5. Prime the case
6. Charge the case
7. Seat and crimp the bullet
8. Then fire the bullet and repeat the above steps
Am I missing a step here? The bullets when completed look like the pictures below.
So with the process I am using I am doing everything right?
Does someone have a picture of the heeled bullet so I know what it looks like?
What would be better to use what I am doing or the heeled bullet?
Yes, everything is correct, were you having problems at all?
Here are photos of a different caliber bullet but it is a heeled. The lower portion of the bullets is smaller and it fits inside the case, while the rest of it is the same diameter as the case, like a .22LR, with the lube on the outside.
They need to be crimped and lubed one by one after assembly.
Is the additional crimping more labor intensive than casting hollow based bullets?
I've been using a hollow based single cav mold from Bernie's Old West molds. I wouldn't call it a PITA but it's definitely slower than casting normal conicals.
I've wondered about heeled bullets before but never really seen them compared to hollow based on this forum.
If anybody here who has done both types from casting to shooting were to put forth their opinion, I'd find it interesting.
Does the number of successful reloads with one style vs the other vary much? As in better overall case life from heeled as to hollow based?
Accuracy comparison of heeled vs HB?
Thanks for the input all, it's appreciated.
I've been using a hollow based single cav mold from Bernie's Old West molds. I wouldn't call it a PITA but it's definitely slower than casting normal conicals.
I've wondered about heeled bullets before but never really seen them compared to hollow based on this forum.
If anybody here who has done both types from casting to shooting were to put forth their opinion, I'd find it interesting.
Does the number of successful reloads with one style vs the other vary much? As in better overall case life from heeled as to hollow based?
Accuracy comparison of heeled vs HB?
Thanks for the input all, it's appreciated.
I was not having any problems and there we no signs of excessive pressure. I was just taken back when a book I recently was given said the maximum load was 4.5 grains of Unique. I have been finding 5.0 grains works the best but have been considering going to the maximum from another book which is 5.5 grains. I guess it is not the first time reloading manuals have been different
.Thanks for the pictures and explaining heeled bullets, I have read about them before but did not pick up the "The lower portion of the bullets is smaller and it fits inside the case, while the rest of it is the same diameter as the case, like a .22LR, with the lube on the outside."
.41 Colt
I was out today with both of my .41's. A Colt New Line in .41 short and an 1878 in .41 long. Both using heel base bullets over 3F black powder. The New Line is a sweet close quarter tool that punches the little bullet in a tight group at 8 yards and the 1878 has a decent pattern at 20 yards. I've never tried the hollow based bullet and both of my antiques work well with the heel bullets.
I was out today with both of my .41's. A Colt New Line in .41 short and an 1878 in .41 long. Both using heel base bullets over 3F black powder. The New Line is a sweet close quarter tool that punches the little bullet in a tight group at 8 yards and the 1878 has a decent pattern at 20 yards. I've never tried the hollow based bullet and both of my antiques work well with the heel bullets.
